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  #16  
Old 07-01-2022, 11:48 AM
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Does the car start easily, not have excessive exhaust smoke and make good power? If yes to all then I'd say no to the overheating connection? If no then maybe pump timing is off and I'm not sure if pump timing would make it run warm.

Have you checked the breather pipe and air cleaner for excessive crankcase oil?

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  #17  
Old 07-01-2022, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adt21 View Post
Interesting findings with respect to the idle.

1) turning the idle adjustment screw seems to have no effect on idle speed (still at about 1200 rpms)

2) the manual stop function does not work. If I push the stop lever forward nothing happens.

Any thoughts on why that might be, and is it possible to connect these observations to recent episode of overheating?
Did you remove the linkage connected to the IP when you adjusted the idle screw?
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79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2022, 02:31 PM
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Thanks guys, it was a full day with the car yesterday.

Car starts easily and no white smoke out the back.

Power seems pretty good around town but up on the highway yesterday it was not easy to get it to 100mph. This is in contrast to last week before the overheating episode when I was able to get it to 115 without to much of a strain. Granted these are speeds that are not usually traveled at on American roads.

Car continues to have thermostat fluctuations. Often about 5 minutes after starting the coolant temp guest 120C then settles down to jump between 85 and -110C.

I loose about 50ml of coolant every time I stop the car - no obvious source.

I continue to note that at times of excessive coolant temp there is not heat coming out the vents (with heat set to max) but when the coolant normalizes I get blasting hot air.

As noted previously, adjust the idle screw does not impact idle speed much. However idle speed in now a more manacle 900 and there is no more run away idle happening.

/////////

Currrent thoughts and plan:

I'm ascribing coolant leak/coolant temp fluctuations/heater inconsistancy to failing axially water pump. I've bought a new thermostat as well though with a 500 mile engine this seems unlikely and will hold off on the new thermostat.

Rpm/idle screw/possible power loss remain a mystery.

Will keep everyone up to date.

//////

On another note I'm putting in second row headrests, probably will start a new thread on this topic. Pulled the read seats yesterday, what a battle, the Phipps head screws were in incredibly tight, some sort of blue compound from the factory. Had to drill them out.

Good times, and Happy 4th of July weekend everyone!
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2022, 02:32 PM
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Oh and AlecSD - I did not remove the linkage connection to the IP when adjusted the idle screw.
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2022, 02:51 PM
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Location: San Mateo, CA
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Try adjusting the idle adjustment screw with linkage removed.

The linkage being attached may have prevented the idle to drop to a lower rpm level.
Steps #2 through #9 on the DIY Adjust the base idle OM615, 616, 617 are with the linkage detached.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Last edited by Alec300SD; 07-02-2022 at 03:04 PM.
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