|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Ah, Texan one owner 300D, a few ???s if I may?
I have been a lurker here for about a year, as I had a 240D a few years ago.
We just received my wife's grandfather's car. 1977 300D, one owner, 155K miles. I am in Houston Tx, so howdy to all you Texans as well. Preface this post with the fact that I have used the search button... Anyway, there are three problems. 1) If you start the car and dont let it run for 10 minutes, the car wont turn off immediatly. The car wont turn off unless the drivers door is locked. I know the vacum system has some check valves, etc in it, but I want to know where the leak might be here? I am going to buy a minivac, but when I get it, what do I do? 2 ACC doesnt work. It worked about a year ago, it would come on sometimes, and sometimes not. I must have AC, Houston is about 6 miles from the face of the sun... As well as not having AC, This last winter, the only way the blower would blow heat was to put in on defrost...any theories? Am I going to have to replace the selection panel? 3) The transmission was slipping and then catching at the 1-2 shift. Now reverse is gone. I want to stay with the Auto for originality. Get it rebuilt in Houston, or should I buy a rebuilt one and install it?? How much are we talking? $1500? I am up for all the advice you all can impart upon me with regards to checking the valves and other mechanicals as well. Regards, PiP |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
My car wouldnt turn off and if I locked the doors it would turn off. I replaced the passengers side vacuum element. You can check with your service CD for the positions of the lines. Try under the passengers side floor mat, if you put vacuum to it, you should hear it somewhere, like the fuel door will make a noise, etc.
AC is usually $1000 to fix. Transmission rebuild is around $1500, good guess. Austin
__________________
Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Reverse:
Check the adjusting bolt for the reverse band. It is on the outside of the case and has a habit of backing off. Screw it in until the locknut contacts case and you will have reverse again. Slipping: change oil and filter in Transmission. You can turn off engine at the intake manifold. PUsh the throttle lever the opposite way and it shoud stop. Buy the Haynes manual. Do a search for "vaccuum" on this forum and READ. Good luck! Ed
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
6 miles would not be so bad if you were not ankle deep in humidity.....
That trans Bill is talking about came out of my wrecked parts car. ALL indications, perfect interior, condition of the motor etc, indicate that the 110K on the speedo were accurate... it turned out that his sister's car which he got it for was the next model year and a design change had been made with regards to the vacuum modulator... Just FYI.... PS, that perfect interior, dark blue MBtex, is for sale since I sold the teal wagon to Bill and he likes the leather seats it had in it.... email me, someone ! Greg |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks guys.
As far as the transmission, TXBill, will that tranny work on a 77 without any modifications? 240Ed, thanks for the advise about reverse, I will give it a try when I get the car home. I will read the other posts about vacum too, but I just Even if that does work, I need to get the transmission fixed. Dont you all think that a really bad slipage between 1 and 2nd gear indicates something wrong other than a fluid and filiter change? If not that would make my day leathermang, what part of Texas you in? Regards, PiP |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
PIP, I am thirty miles due east of Austin...the original torque converter is free if you get the trans... it was just heavy and the trans was already in Bill's trunk,,, and he figured on using his sister's car's original one with it.....Greg
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I had a slow shifting trans, and it turned out to be a problem with the vaccuum, so go slow here and try the easy and cheap first, Sorry Greg...
anyway, I sorted the vaccuum and then it was crisp city!
__________________
Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
What W123 cars have transmissions that aren't affected by the vacuum? I've always wondered if my 78 280E's transmission suffered at all from the leaky vacuum. Thanks
Simon 78 280E |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
PiP:
Does the ACC work with the doors locked??? If so then your vacumn leak is in the door lock system, any kind of vacumn leak will make anything and everything not work! As far as reverse, definitley check the Reverse band bolt, I've ad three transmissions, all of them had the bolt back out of the case. Sloppy 1-2 shift, is there enough fluid in the trans? Is it dark brown and burnt smelling? Have fun! |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
PiP,
It sounds like you are already on the path to taking care of the transmission. It's a good thing they are helping you with this because I fix A/T's by trading them for something with a manual. I'm a manual transmission fanatic, and the disease has been passed to both my kids. It definitely sounds like your vacuum leak is either one of the passenger door diaphragms or the gas tank door diaphragm. It will be easy to troubleshoot with the Mighty Vac. It would be worth the money for a Haynes manual for this car. It is one of the best Haynes manuals they ever did and it has a vacuum diagram. I have a very good troubleshooting article that I can fax to you if you can send me a fax number. It was published in an IMPCO newsletter about ten years ago. They were an MB parts supplier in Houston that was sold to Performance Products, now in California. I'm sure you will find this article VERY helpful with the climate control system. Good luck, |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
The current Performance Products catalogs have particularly nice and clear exploded line drawings of the engine and ac on the 123's... I use them all the time to identify stuff....and they are free... Greg
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Greg,
I have that catalog, the new one with the maroon wagon on the cover? All I see is the parts description on 68-9. What page is the AC vacuum diagram, I cant find it... PiP |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
I use it for engine and ac stuff , for vacuum I think the "electrical trouble shooting " Factory shop manual for the 123 has the best vacuum diagrams... if my memory serves me well... but will look when I find them next time... Greg
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Copy of article
Larry, an Email is on it's way to get a copy of the troubleshooting article.
--Craig |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
I can attest to the helpfulness of the article Larry is talking about. Covers ACC type I and II well.
Nice testing scenarios. I found it informative and organized.
__________________
James 85 300SD 285k Charcoal Gray/Grey MB-Tex 79 300CD 142000mi "Rabenshwarz" Black / Black MB-Tex, Burlwood Int. TOTALLED - 10/24/02 -- |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|