So, you are finding out why it was parked 20 years ago....

Put a propane torch tip in the air intake and turn it on (obviously don't ignite it). Let the gas build up a little in the airway and turn the engine over without glowing the plugs.

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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO

So just a little update.

I found a huge leaking fuel supply line under the car. I replaced the 2 rubber hoses at the tank but did not see the 2 rubber hoses by the LF tire. I have since replaced those and corrected all the leaks. I changed the cigar hose and all return hoses too for good measure.

I purged as much air as I could with the hand primer pump. I glowed the car and tried to start it. It was sputtering and stumbling but did not start.

I cracked the injector lines and disconnected the glow plug ground wire (to save battery). I cranked again for about two rounds. Fuel came from all injector hard lines except #3.

I tightened the injector lines and re-connected the glow plug ground wire. I placed a gas-soaked rag near the intake, hoping that the vapors might help with the initial start-up.

Again, the car cranked and cranked with some sputtering and coughing but no actual startup.

I have heard the car start up one time but I did not stay on the throttle and it died immediately. I have not been able to recreate that since.

Are we thinking stuck rack in the injection pump, delivery valve issues, tight valves, poor compression, or something else.

If I wanted to remove the IP and send off to be rebuilt, what are the gotchas in that operation? I have never timed an injection pump, and I don't want to pull it off and cause more issues.

Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions.

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1982 300D-T (sold)
1988 300E (sold)
1994 E320 Wagon (sold)
1995 E320
1998 E300D-T
1999 E3204M Wagon
2001 E320
2005 E320 CDI

If you have not adjusted the valves, do that. Its easy and can only help . If you have fuel out of three lines, the rack is in position to start. I definetly would NOT start thinkng about spending $$ on the injection pump without adjusting the valves and checking the compression.

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

If you have not adjusted the valves, do that. Its easy and can only help . If you have fuel out of three lines, the rack is in position to start. I definitely would NOT start thinking about spending $$ on the injection pump without adjusting the valves and checking the compression.

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1985 300 TD 448K
1984 300 TD 278K

1983 240D euro 240k
1994 f-250 idi turbo 330K
1986 f-350 IDI
1987 F-350 IDI

1985 JD 1050 4wd
1965 IH 3660

Would the salt shaker still glow red in about 30 seconds (not too fast or long) if a glow plug or plugs were bad? The loops looked intact upon casual examination but who knows. I can replace them for cheap insurance too.

Will perform the valve adjustment as soon as I get the wrenches!

Thanks!

Makes it harder trying to get it started on three cylinders as well. We have the option of working for hours on cars ourselves.

It is sounding like you do have some compression. A working mechanic would waste no time seeing if it is enough. You want to know how your glow plugs are doing?

Rough way but better than none. In the dark you should see the squiggly wires glow somewhat that are between the plugs. They are resistance wires.

Many older diesels do not like to start with just one glow plug out. You are in an even worse situation. The one cylinder is not seeing any fuel. The only way it can right now is by feeding a fuel supply replacement through the induction system. As a real example here.

Engine tries to start by rotation and it hits a dead cylinder. That is why I suggested you carefully check to see if you can free up the bad injection pumps element if frozen. You will have to do this anyway at some point.

Sending that injection pump out for service would be expensive by the way.

Also if the block heater is still good. Using it to heat up the engine before trying to start might help. You never know if the valve maintanance for clearance was kept up over the years on any of these. At this point you do not need adjustment wrenches. Unless a quick valve clearance check reveals that you do not have some clearance on each valve.

Good job finding and fixing the fuel supply leaks by the way. You said you got it to run once. That is a really hopeful sign. It proved it can run even with all the current issues. That is enough to start dealing with it systematically.

Shot gunning just costs money and often that money spent gets you nothing in return. Get some penatrating oil on that third injection pump elements piston for a couple of days before trying to free it up. That and checking that the valves have some clearance would be my next steps.

Read up on the best approach to tap on that injection pump element or check to see if it is free. Chances of the element being stuck to me are a reasonable possibility. You are attempting to bypass a know fault and guessing at other things as well. You almost always address what you know is bad before moving on. It is both common sense and logical. We all can all make things harder than we need to at times. I have been there many times myself over the years.

You are shooting into the dark. The FIRST thing you should have done was to check the compression. If it is below 200 PSI I don't care what you do with the fuel or valves, it isn't going to start.

Do a compression test and report the numbers.

A "good" engine will have 300+ PSI, A "fair" will have 250+ and an engine on the verge of a rebuild will be below 250.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

It seems to have run a little once. Indicating it should run if some issues are addressed. I do agree in starting a base compression test in a case like this.

I would expect that the compression just might improve on an engine that has set for twenty years sitting. With some use after starting though.

Exactly.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.