W123 front brake hose removal
 

I am installing new calipers. I last changed hoses in 2014. They look OK, but might as well change them too. My question is about how they connect at upper end. There is a clip.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1xcvz1okw...front.jpg?dl=1

The hard line union nut is soft material, small in size and prone to damage. I redid all the hoses plus rear hard lines, but that was 8 years ago. At that time, only way I got the rears disconnected was using a Vice-Grip special tool - like these:
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/wate...ge/1039_2_.jpg

These are better used to HOLD the flare nut, rather than turn it. For the fronts, I would rather turn the large hex on the under side of the bracket and just jam the grips against the inner fender. But can that be done?

I seem to recall some here cutting the hose and using a deep socket on the 17mm(?) hex. I have a flare wrench, but can that even be done? I seem to recall that fitting at the upper end of the hose is not free to turn.

I don't remember how I released those flare nuts last time :(

I don't think the hose is free to turn in the bracket. Look at the new hose. Is it round where it goes into the bracket? If not it won't rotate.

Good luck!!!

I have wasted morning trying to order new hoses. None available locally. One very long delivery and two others only have one in their distant warehouse :( Rock wanted crazy price for shipping - not sure why. They are the only US source that gets stuff to us fast.

I think I will get disks and calipers back on using existing hoses, then change them down the road, next time I do a brake flush. Will get them on order along with a reasonable quality 11mm flare wrench. I don't have one, so must have used regular open end spanner of the fronts last time around. That vicegrip tool was last resort getting rears undone.

I'd just use the 7 year old ones.

I had this problem on my '85 300D. Left front. I tried the special vise grip tool, an 11mm flare wrench, even a 6" pipe wrench. By now the male part of the joint was toast. A used brake line was at the PnP. I used a small angle grinder to cut just below the ruined hex without damaging the clip attached to the body. Then in with new hose and used steel line up to the master. I used a touch of aluminum anti-seize on the male threads.

I entered the Dorman part number (H380009) on Amazon.ca. It came up and I ordered. Not counting on it. Three other large vendors had none in their warehouses. In the meantime assuming leaving old ones in place. If they do ship, will be back to trying to release the flares!

Next issue was separating old disks from hubs. Impact gun wouldn't budge them! Now soaking. May need heat.

Brand new OE ATEs arriving Monday :) Zimmerman disks, Pagid pads here.

At 82, taking my time. Hopefully last brake job (on this car!)

Tubing nuts often seize between the tube and the nut. IMO the anti-seize needs to go on the tube, slide the nut back out it on the tube and slide the nut forward. Fill the void between the nut and the tube with penetrating oil repeatedly. My preference is Kroil, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Notice what isn't listed...???

Graham keep at it!!! Look up and consider using electrolysis bath rust removal. You could put the entire rotor in the bath to help break things loose. I've had amazing results.

Good luck!!!

Don't understand that. How would I slide the nut back & forth on the tubing when it is still stuck in place?

I post here just to vent some of the frustration of dealing with old cars that are driven in salt. And get some moral support ;) Not my first rodeo. Been through this many times on my old cars. But these days I seem to have forgotten things I learned along the way :)

This PM, I removed caliper, dust shield and disk/hub on the other side so taking a break! Probably just clean and paint the dust shield and parts of suspension rest of weekend. Disks/hubs can soak until Monday! Then they get HEAT!

Put the anti-seize on at reassembly not on disassembly. For now you could warm the tubing nut, juice it with penetrating oil and walk away. The cooling wicks the penetrant in.

Good luck!!!

https://tborash.files.wordpress.com/...3&h=253&zoom=2

:):D

Isnt that how a porsche 911 is built?

Along with a few others, but there the weight is over the drive wheels.

OK, there was something I had forgotten :o

The reason the disk-hub bolts could not be removed, was not because they were rusted. Penetrating fluid did no good. It was the Loctite on the bolts preventing them from coming out (even with an impact wrench)!!

I applied heat on opposite (wheel side) of the hub where the stuck bolt ends can be seen. Applied heat one at a time for about 2 min with a small butane torch. I then removed the bolts by hand using an Allen key with a short steel tube for leverage.

Glad to have that out of the way.

Hopefully same result with flare nuts, IF I change the hoses.

Those six bolts take a huge torque to loosen. I always held my breath fearing something would break when breaking them loose.

Your front hoses may not be bad to deal with if only on the car 8 years. Even the head of he fitting on yours may still be the same wrench size. Instead of corroded down to less.

I usually do not fool around. Use heat on the fitting as the old hoses are going into the garbage.

Heavy rust belt here worse than yours. Or cut the old hose flush and use a six point socket. To me there is nothing like high heat to deal with many things on old cars in the rustbelt. OX/Acc preferably.