Thanks Shern, I was afraid of that.....

I think I will just completely flush the clutch this weekend for starters using the oiler method. Is there anything i need to know beforehand, or is it just crack the bleeder on the slave, install purged hose and flush away leaving clutch pedal alone?

Unless you have air in the line, you can simply gravity bleed. Or, gravity bleed with a little help by connecting your power bleeder and loosening the slave nipple. It’s a solid column of fluid, let it drain until it’s clear. Just make sure the rear baffle of the brake reservoir is full.

The only time you need to do the oil can/bottom to top thing is if there’s air in the line/you’ve changed a component in the system.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Thanks, so just to be clear, if I open the bleeder on the slave and the cap on the master cylinder I should be getting a stream of fluid? If I am not, what could be the problem?

Hello and good morning to all!

I am happy to report that after FINALLY getting the correct slave cylinder this week, and replacing both it and the master cylinder and bleeding using the oil can method....I am back on the road!! My clutch feel has never been better and I am so very grateful for all of the help on this forum.

I must say that initially I did have an issue with no fluid getting back up to the reservoir, and this was cause by the master cylinder push-rod still being partially installed. The pushrod MUST be completely removed for proper bleeding to occur!!

Thank you again!