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Temp gauge low
My 240 D, which has been running great on well filtered WVO for about 80,000 miles, still runs fine, but for some odd reason, the temp gauge has a hard time getting up to 80C. I first noticed this on an 85 deg F day. It has forever run at 80 C or a bit above on such a day. On a cooler day about 70F, it was running at more like 60 or 70 C. Never had this before. Always runs at or a bit above 80C. Any ideas? Could the gauge or sending sensor be failing?
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Time to replace your thermostat.
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Could be the gauge but I'd start with the thermostat as suggested. Use a good one, it is critical.
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My 1984 300D was running cool ~60 C when should be 80 C. The T-stat seemed to work about right in a pot of hot water, but when checked more carefully against others and w/ IR gun and thermometer, it opened too soon and responded too sluggishly. A new T-stat fixed it. Perhaps the thermal wax inside gets poorer with age.
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This was on a gasser. I had an issue where the temp sensor got covered with some sort of white build up and it effected the heat transfer to the temp sensor.
If the connector is corroded and the terminal is corroded that can also give a false reading. |
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I replaced a leaking radiator with a known good one and also the water pump which had a seal problem. New radiator cap to boot. Also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses due to surface cracking on rubber. Also had to troubleshoot the electric cooling fan to get it working. This was after I serviced the AC unit back to health. When I am sitting in summer traffic and it’s 110 degrees I don’t have to worry about any nasty surprises from the cooling system. I am not against just fixing what is only broke but I have lived through several roadside debacles over the years trying to limp an old car home with an unmaintained cooling system and I finally got tired of sunburns, burnt fingers and a steam bath so every project I do now gets the attention it deserves. I will get off my cooling system soapbox now, LOL. |
Thermostat........
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Thermostat opening too soon?
If the thermostat is opening too soon, wouldn't it eventually reach the normal operating temperature of about 80C?
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^^^That depends on ambient temp, cooling system condition and size, and load on the engine. Short answer maybe...
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Is running cool uncool ?
I guess i will take some measurements with the IR thermometer to see that the gauge corresponds, then if that checks out, change the thermostat. It's only 41 years old, (200 in cat years).
If i put that off a while, is there any damage from running a bit cool? Thanks for all the cool advice! |
Replacing the thermostat is the cheapest and most obvious solve.
41 years old... do you really need to futz around with an IR thermometer? Re: damage, one of the others will chime in, but 60 is pretty far off 80. You're certainly getting less efficient combustion. Your valve lash is also set for a hot running engine. Why not get it over and done with? |
As others have said - thermostat first. I've had issues with other brands lately that were resolved by a MB/Mahle/Behr.
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Start soaking the thermostat housing bolts. Spray them warm, tap them with a hammer and walk away. Repeat, repeat, repeat...
Good luck!!! |
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Amen to that!
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Brown coolant!
Finally got my new thermostat from Pelican, and first step, drain coolant. Well it was the color of chocolate milk! Also corrosion on the metal parts to which the hoses attach. So i knew it was time for a complete flush. Drained the radiator, and removed the block drain bolt, which was miraculously easy, but idiotically so positioned that it splooshes all over the back of the starter. Ran garden hose thru the radiator and block til it ran reasonably clear, then filled with some used but clean diluted antifreeze and water, but decided to put off the thermostat job to see if clean antifreeze made a difference. It did not, still running a bit over the 60 deg. line. The IR thermometer pretty much agreed with the gauge. The plan is to run about a hundred miles, maybe adding some radiator flush medicine, and flush again. This time i will put in the right stuff, and of course change the thermostat.
Thanks for all the advice about this and other problems i have had. COOL! |
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Before any diagnosing began, at the very least, did you open your radiator and peak inside? What was the level? Was there froth? Oily residue? It’s difficult following your logic as you’re mostly taking steps associated with running hot. At the very least, you have a thermostat problem that for whatever reason, you seem to be avoiding. |
Brown coolant?
I read some other posts, and am aware there could be other problems, but the coolant level has remained about the same, maybe needing a few ounces once every 10,000 miles or so; no oily froth, or foam under the oil cap. Temp never went much over 80, maybe pushing 90 if driving over 70 for prolonged periods in hot weather. I am thinking it is that the coolant has never been replaced, on my watch at least, about 80,000 miles. So i am planning to go forward with flush again, and replace with the right stuff. Maybe i will wait a little longer, see if the current stuff turns brown in a few hundred miles, before reflushing and refilling.
I have the new thermostat in hand, and of course will replace it when i do the next flush |
Coolant still brown after 3 flushes
I finally put in the new thermostat, and she is running a little over 80 C again.
But i have changed water and coolant, and flushed the radiator and block with the garden hose at least 3 times, and after driving 100 miles or so each time, it is still coming out brown. I used 3/4 of a bottle of Prestone radiator flush once, and the other 1/4 bottle the next time. No froth; the stuff i initially drained and let sit did not have oil floating on it after 2 weeks, not overheating, so i am wondering how many times it should take to flush a cooling system that likely has not had the coolant changed in the 170 K on the odometer (80 K on my watch). |
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