Thanks for the pointers! I don't have an engine hoist, but would two people be able to pull it out?

I've got what I believe to be, a proper TDC, to zip tie into place. The cam marking is aligned with the cam tower, but the harmonic dampener isn't lined up between T|O. Is this a sign of chain stretch?

Yes that is a sign the chain is stretched, and no the head is not coming off without a hoist, you will need to buy/rent one.

I've got access to one, I'll go acquire it.

Is this chain stretch to a degree in which it needs replacement?

Hard to tell from the pic if the cam is lined up, but close. If you want to, you can place a straight edge in line with the markings on the cam caps and the notch. Or look thru the hole in the sprocket to align the cap mark and notch For stretch, it's a ballpark measure. You should run it around several times and compare the degrees on the crank or average for stretch. I don't recall the upper limit is 4 degrees, maybe more several threads here with details.

On the exhaust if already not done so, remove the egr, pipe, trap ox bypass, unbolt the turbo from exhaust manifold, leave attached to exhaust. Lift head with twin exhaust manifolds attached and remove on work bench. Better access. IIRC, manifolds use studs and bronze nuts. You can reuse both NP.

2 people can lift it out, but reach to the rear will be a pain. A hoist will be better particularly when reinstalling so as to not damage the mating surface of the head, while guiding in.

Get some Hylomar dressing for the head gasket.

Good luck

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

It looks like it yes, I think 4 degrees is the maximum before replacement is needed, and 6-7 degrees is enough for the valves to hit the pistons if I remember right.

Also, you know how to put the hood in the service position to reach the rear of the engine easier right?

I just gave the crank another spin, to get a second reading. Did a much better job lining up the camshaft and sprocket marking, and feel more confident about this result on the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure with which what side of the notch to read, but it seems within the spec.

Ah ok yeah that looks like 2 degrees, you are fine then.

There is a gas W124 wagon the same color as this in Fairfield CA Pick-N-Pull, you should go check it out if you need any parts. I saw it today and it was pretty much complete.

c'mon now where you going to find two Supermen to lift that engine?
I just tuned in and wonder if you would like a free engine hoist? it comes with the purchase of my PERFECT OM603 here in No Calif.
I listed it in the parts section for $1700 but it went away sometime later, I've seen that happen to another listing I made so I give up on trying to sell anything on peachparts.
My mechanic had done a lot of work on my other 87 300D that my wife drove unitl she got teeboned. Engine has new lifters, fan clutch, pulley, chain and tensioner. Idles smooth and with 165K miles on it needs nothing except a home. Located in San Mateo. let me know if you want details. tks DDH

__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Is there a trick on removing the trap ox bypass pipe? I've removed the bolts and have tried prying it off, but it hasn't budged.

Cheers

It seems like it's being held on by a bracket, which is near impossible to access the last bolt behind...

This is certainly an exercise in frustration!

No special trick, 2 nuts on left round connector, 4 on the flange side. Use a rubber mallet to free up the exposed ends and not damage the insulation. Focus on the flange side first as the other round end I belive the uses a donut gasket or fitting and will provide more range.

The bolts circled in your pic are the remainder holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold. There are 4 bolt/nuts there. Once the bypass is removed you should be able to access with a soanner or from below. Once separated the head with the exhaust manifolds attached can be removed

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Thanks! I'll rap on the pipe a little harder, but I think this bracket in the square pictured below, is keeping the pipe pinned down. The nut is freakin' impossible to reach, at least with my tools

Ah ok, now I see that front square. Remove the turbo outlet- intake bracket just forward of that, where the egr is mounted. Should be 2 Allen bolts into the side of the head. Below that is a slip coupler with 2 green O rings, lift that sraight up. Then will give you access to that bolt

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)