Theres a third bolt on the underside, which i've been able to back out with my finger, but can't get it all the way. I might need to sleep on it, since I've cursed at my benz enough today...

Don't get discouraged, I've added at least 10 curse words in German to my repertoire working on these engines, mind you it's 3 to 7 OM603 vs OM642.

You may gain a little more wiggle room if you loosen or remove that lower plate holding the boost controller vac pod (lower left of pic). Should be no need to detach the rod to the turbo wastegate, but there should be a larger allen bolt just above the rubber boot feeding the turbo inlet. Might give you just enough room to get your fingers or tools in for that bottom bolt.

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Much appreciated!

I removed that bolt earlier in my struggles, but the vac pod bracket didnt budge, so I figured it was attached somewhere else too. I'll give that another go today!

Is it just one bolt holding on the vac pod bracket? I've already removed the connecting rod earlier, but with the large allen bolt removed at the turbo inlet, the vac pod still isn't budging. Not sure how hard I should be wailing on it with a hammer until I learn it's just the one bolt holding it down.

Thanks!

FWIW, I just looked over mine, having done the same 10 years ago. LOL I must have had the same issues, just can't recall, but neither the lower aluminum charge bracket bolt (the third one) nor that L bracket between the bypass pipe and exhaust manifold exist on mine anymore. I probably had decided that neither was important enough to go thru the frustration to reinstall after the PIA it was to get them out. It's been 10 years and 100k miles since with no issue not having them there.

Should you choose to reinstall those a few ideas come to mind that may help out. The Aluminum air pip bracket would be easier to access if the front exhaust manifold is not in place and is installed after the alum bracket is mounted. This would be easier on reassembly after cleaning/chasing threads. If you install the head with a hoist, then it would be a matter of engaging the charge pipe on the turbo to the bracket as well as aligning the head on the dowel pins. Why a hoist is so crucial to this type of work.

With regards to the L bracket between the bypass pipe and the manifold. Cut out the hole on the short end going to the exhaust manifold and make it a crows foot opening. This should allow you to thread the troublesome bolt you are dealing with now onto the bypass with the bracket loose, so that after the bypass is mounted, you can pivot the crows foot onto the exhaust stud. Or... remove the stud and replace with same thread short bolt, also replace bypass end bolt with shorter one. both should aide in reassembly.

Good luck

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Looked mine over again, and the bracket has additional bolts that are hard to get to. I also noticed that without the bracket between the bypass pipe and manifold, or possibly just below that, looks like there is enough room to feed an extension with a wobble joint onto the third lower Alum bracket bolt, especially if you have removed the connecting rod between the vac pod and turbo.

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

Thanks again for the insight. I might just try and slip in a hacksaw blade, and cut off the bottom bolt, flush with the engine head, holding on the aluminum charge bracket. I also like the idea of just removing the stud on the small L bracket holding on the exhaust manifold...Maybe i'll try that first, before pulling out the saw.

What a pesky set of bolts to remove!

Don't butch up anything with a hacksaw. You can pull the head with the exhaust manifold attached to the head.

1) Remove the 4 bolts which hold the turbo to the brackets ( underneath, pain to get to but all bolts are a pain anyway ).

2) Remove the football ( the new equivalent )

3) remove a sideway bolt attaching the turbo. Next to the aluminum exhaust down pipe.

4) remove a bolt attaching the turbo feed oil line.to the turbo bracket.

I think that is it. Use an engine hoist to lift the head. You need a lot of tools with extensions and swivel joints. Good luck.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Success on removing the intake/charge pipe bracket. Fondling that underside bolt, with a rubberband on my finger, I was able to back it out.

That allowed access to the last bolt holding on the small exhaust bracket too.

Next is the trap ox bypass pipe... All bolts are removed, but it's seemingly welded on. I'll try to wedge something under it, and get out the mallet.

Congrats, good trick with the rubber band.

Spray down the bypass pipe ends with a good penetrant and let soak. Have a beer!
Work with a rubber mallet as much as you can rather than prying so as to not risk damaging the mating surfaces.

Making progress!

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

I've been PB blasting, and wailing on it with a rubber mallet over multiple sessions. Maybe I'm not drinking enough beer between...

Should I consider removing the studs from the manifold at this point? The damn thing wont budge in it's current state.

If you have a torch and can apply heat to the rear round connection and pry on the outside flange at the studs it may pop off. If that doesn't work, yeah, next would be to try to remove the manifolds.

If you choose the latter, remove the Airbox, overflow tank, and baffle/divider, this will provide better access to the manifolds.

__________________
Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

You would not be able to remove the exhaust manifold no matter how many items you remove. You can't get access to all 12 nuts holding the manifold. The nuts also don't come out easily and you may snap the studs. Btdt.

The oxidation trap is held by 6 nuts plus 1 bolt. 2 to the exhaust manifold and 4 to the turbo inlet. One side way bolt next to the turbo inlet. Make sure all 7 are removed and it should come off. Don't forget the accordion thingie.

You can also remove head with the exhaust manifold attached. See earlier post.

Good luck. You need that.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

My goal is to pull the head with the exhaust manifold at this point. I can't imagine trying to reach all 12 nuts

Ox trap has all 7 removed. The six were easy, but the bracket by the turbo inlet was definitely a pain to free. Still, the trap ox won't budge after some wailing and PB soak. I might need to remove the overflow, airbox, and heat shield, to get a better angle with the mallet.

Thanks for the luck! Getting everyone's insight has been a great help

Destroyed my mallet on this thing, but it was worth it! Wedging a breaker bar between both pipes, at the round inlet end, and hitting the bar, broke her free!

Would y'all advise on removing the bracket from the top bolts (red), or the bottom bolts (green)? Removing the upper bolts allows a shelf for the exhaust to sit on when replacing the head, but I don't want it to effect how the head is torqued down.