Hello,

Recently rebuild all the bushings and suspension on my 1982 300CD TurboDiesel. I ordered the suggested springs from Pelican Parts: Lesjofors 40-568-12-INT. The front fender to ground is about 28" right now (should be about 27" if I got my specs correct). Using the 4 nub stock rubber pads.

1 option is to cut the springs.

The other option is to exchange them for another set although I may come to find that the second order of springs has the same issue.

Looks like in order for me take the springs out now, I would have to take apart my suspension and it is a big pain in the butt. Even with the correct spring compressors the springs are tough to remove as there isn't too much clearance with the front spindle attached.

Although very dangerous, any way to cut a coil off the spring from the bottom end while the spring is compressed in its perch?

Pads are available in four thicknesses: 1, 2, 3, & 4 nub. Why?

If you’ve changed the spring shin from what was in there you’ll either get a taller or shorter ride height. Also, when you replace the springs you’re supposed to tighten the control arm bolts with the wheels on the ground or the wheel off with a floor jack, jacking up the control arm to make sure the bushings are loaded. That will affect ride height as well.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Also, the old springs may have been so weak causing the car to squat lower than factory. Also, remember there is different colors on the springs. Some are 2 blue 1 yellow example and springs are vin coded specifically to certain models. For example, a 280CE may have a different spring than a diesel because of the weight of the engine. Also as Frank mentioned there’s nubs on the springs. 4 dot could indicate 12mm for example and a 3 nub could indicate a 10mm.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Removing and installing the front springs in a W123 car requires a very special spring compressor and can be a dangerous job.

I've reused the rubber pads that were on the car (understand that they come in different thicknesses). They were in good shape and did not require replacing.

I also have the MB spring compressor with the 2 plates and the rod going through the middle, inserted through the engine bay.

When I put the springs in I had everything loose and it was much easier to get the spring in. Now that everything has been buttoned up with the wheels on the ground, getting this spring to compress enough to take it out of the car is much harder.

I am guessing I will have to release the front spindle from the upper ball joint and un-do the upper shock nut to get enough clearance?

I understand that it doesn't make sense however am wondering if anyone got real adventurous and cut 1 loop off of the spring with the upper portion of the compressed and the tension off the bottom part to be cut off? It's dangerous but am a bit stuck unless I take apart the suspension more than I want.

If the bottom coil of a spring has a blue mark it is long for the part #. A red mark on the bottom coil indicates a short spring.
Paint colors in the middle of the spring are factory internal codes.
Among other things, the pads are used to adjust ride height.

Managed to get the long springs out. Had to undo the shock nut as well as the upper ball joint nut and drop the control arm down to get enough clearance. Quite the job lining up the plates and getting everything back together.

Car is riding "normal" now in the front and feels much more stable. It was simply too high in the front at 28" from ground to bottom of the fender.