|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
300D n/a 722-118 No gears engaging
Sorry, a little long winded. Bought the car in this condition. PO drove car, shifted into park, opened a gate, shifted into drive, nothing happened. When shifting into reverse or drive, absolutely nothing happens. Linkages and neutral safety switch appear good and move well. Once shifted out of park to any gear, car acts as if in neutral, no noises or change in rpm’s. When in park, rear wheels are locked, any other gear it free wheels.
ANY IDEAS? I have changed atf, 4.5 quarts, drained torque converter and filter, old atf was a good red, no shavings, smelled good. Checked the atf level before and after I started car (I know, futile) and the level looked the same from what I vaguely remember. Idea 1, I have read there is a B3 reverse band adjuster above the shift solenoid using a 10mm head and 19mm lock nut. I don’t see the 10mm head, mine must be broken.. they are designed to break once a specified torque is reached from what I have read. Lock nut is tighter than a drum. I can’t find a clear picture for what it should look like new though. Anybody have one? Instructions how to replace it without losing pin into transmission? Would the forward drive gears be affected by this being not adjusted properly? Idea 2, When I took out shift solenoid, to access B3 reverse adjuster, I lost about 2 quarts of atf. This makes me think the torque converter isn't filling. I have also read that that this torque converter is suspect to breaking the tabs for the pump to fill the torque converter. Idea 3, I added 1.5 quarts atf again, took off right (not sure it makes a difference) trans cooler hose at the radiator and ran the engine for 5 minutes, wasn't pumping any atf. front pump problem? Or back to the torque converter tab being broken. Idea 4, I read somewhere and I can't find it again that a spring on top of the valve body comes loose and can be a problem. I am trying to avoid pulling the transmission in the wet, cold Pacific Northwest driveway.... |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Are the flex plate-to-converter bolts in place? |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Frank, Sorry, not sure what you mean, transmission is still in car so I wouldn't be able to see those bolts. Flex disk to driveshaft looks good. I will pull it in the next couple of days.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
h:
The first step in removing the trans is to remove the flexplate-to-converter bolts. They are accessed through an opening in the front face of the intermediate plate. There are three pairs of bolts spaced at 120 degrees around the torque converter. If those bolts have gone on holiday the engine will not be driving the converter. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
On later transmissions that is a symptom of a broken B2 Piston or a broken B2 band accept that believer revers is supposed to work.
After you drained the ATF and made room to get at it the B2 piston snaring and cover can be removed and you can look at the condition of the B2 piston and change the busing and seal on it. You can also push on the B2 band and see if it springs back (not a definitive test unless it does not spring back). Concerning the band adjustment. I believe I read in the past that the band adjustment had a head on them that was supposed to shear off when it was properly torqued. Some have it sheard off and some don't. I can't comment on front pump issues as I have not read up on that. However, I assume a pressure gauge would tell you if the pump was working or not.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks guys, going to try to pull the transmission on Wednesday, my driveway is like a river right now.
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Tranny Woes
I hope you're able to take and share some photos of whatever you find .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
Bookmarks |
|
|