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I'm a new diesel owner!!
After close to two years, I've finally found my baby. A cream puff 1985 300D, Turbo diesel. Guys, it is in mint condition, I've never seen anything like it. Absolutely no rust anywhere, no tears or cracks(even on the dash), is Ivory in color, and A/C blows cold. I have to submit photos once I figure out how to do so. I just hope it continues to be a dream car for me in the future, I don't want to curse it! Anyway, like all used cars, it has some issues. One, is the driver seat spring, which I'm sure I'll be able to find threads on that, second, the door locks don't work (I hope that won't be a nightmare), and third,it needs shocks. I promised myself I won't skimp on the shocks. Thats it, everything else for now seems to work. It wasn't exactly cheap, I paid $4000 for it and has 173,000. But I remember reading on this board that the most expensive MB is the cheap one. Thanks for all your advice and I look forward to sharing my expriences with you.
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2012 550CLS 1982 380SL 1985 300D 1998 ML-320 1997 E-320 1984 380SE Last edited by Alan S; 07-10-2002 at 08:23 AM. |
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Congratulations!
I don't think that's an outrageous price for a 1985 300D in the condition you describe. It's really one of the best transportation values available. Soon I'll be dealing with the driver's seat spring issue myself. I assume yours is leaning to the left like most of them do over time - "large man syndrome" A good source for a new seat spring assembly is Performance Products at www.************************ at about $140. It is supposed to be an updated design that will not fatigue like the original. They run 15% off sales a few times per year, and I'm waiting for the next sale. Almost everyone will tell you to get Bilstein shocks for your car. Have you checked out what is available at the FastLane on-line parts shop? The link is at the top of this page - they should have all kinds of things for your Mercedes. You can attach a graphics file from within the message posting screen here. When you are typing in a message, there is a section below the text entry box called "Attach file:" and it is pretty much self-explanatory from that point. Looking forward to seeing your new car. Ken300D |
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Can't speak too highly of Performance Products
The stuff they sell is nice quality, well thought out, AND affordable. You'll want to get on thier catalog list for W123s.
Is it the central door locking mechanism that's giving trouble? Sometimes when the system has locked all the doors it's almost impossible to unlock anything but the driver's door using the key or the locking knob. Two things that will help you at this stage...a copy of the owner's manual (or a close read-thru if you have one already), and the Haynes manual for the W123 diesels. Even if you don't do your own work, it helps to see symptoms and possible cures. Good luck! |
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manual on CD is best bet
The other post descibes owners manual, but I would get the repair manual on CD. Ebay has ones of questionable origin for around $10 -$20, but they are indispensible. You can also get them from Partsshop and MBUSA for about $110.
Rust free cars are few and far inbetween in IGH. I know, I grew up in SSP. later
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84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k 87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k 00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double |
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Hi Alan S:
Decent price for a good car. I paid 4500 3 yrs back for same car in same condition and 168k on her. My suggestions to you. 1. Nothing but Bilsteins HD or comfort. I have HDs and its perfect for NYC roads. 2. Rubber vacuum connectors should be replaced if any of them looks doubtful. 3. Buy 123 CD from one of the sources mentioned above. 4. Clean the Banjo bolt. I had the car in good condition but PO had never cleaned the Banjo bolt. It took me 2 years ( only after I joined this forum) to clean it. It was just jam packed with gunk. After cleaning, a wonderful increase in performance. 5. Change all filters if no records of last change. 6. MOST IMPORTANT. Change the tranny oil at least until you get around to changing the tranny filter. As a rule of thumb I always change all fluids in any car I buy within 1-3 months, that way I have a clean start on fluid history. That Includes, tranny, brake, power steering, oil, antifreeze, differential. This may cost you 100-200 bucks total but its worth it. I did that for my olds, my wifes Honda, My old Mazda, My benz, My corola, My camry etc. Just my 2 cents Enjoy your car. MVK
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One penny saved is three penny earned. 1985 300D Turbo 179,000miles |
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