I have been working on my rear window trying to figure out why it does nothing. I put power to it and nothing in either direction. I tapped it with a hammer, and it made some struggling noises and then stopped. then power to the motor and nothing, so I am going to replace it. I am looking for a good used one, but if that doesn't work...
Has anyone tried the uro parts regulator on these? or other cheaper regulators?
What would you all recommend?
thanks,
James

Also, are there any tricks to removing the regulator when it is stuck in the up position?
I am thinking of taping the window up and cutting the cable, lowering down the window, and removing the clip. does that make sense?

Have you contacted the folks at John Deere? This is about your tractor, right?

It is like a tractor at this point. Even sounds like it at idle, but quite a bit smoother at higher RPMs.

Actually, he was asking you to post what year and model vehicle you are working on. If you put that info with your infomation it automatically shows up every time you post.

Without knowing what vehicle, you have on my Mercedes 300D I had a window motor freeze up. It would not turn.

I took the motor apart and found that the bushing was totally stuck on the shaft. Removing that and cleaning and re-lubricating it got it to work again.

Also on mine the power window motors are not grounded/earthed through the body of the motor like a starter motor is. You have to apply battery voltage at the ends of each of the wires. That would be positive to one wire and at the same time negative to the opposite wire. That turns the motor one direction. Switching polarity turns the motor the other direction.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Ok, I put the car info in so it shows up with posts. I just ordered one off eBay, but perhaps I can use the knowledge on the other 2 windows that don't work. The regulator and cable look fine, but it's hard to tell with out taking it out. I plan to do that soon.

Well, I tried to put the car info so it would show up on every post, but I don't see it. Anyhow, it is a 90 300d 2.5 turbo.

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1990 300d 2.5 turbo
1995 E300d

Well, there it is now!

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1990 300d 2.5 turbo
1995 E300d

Get a power source and remove the door panel, apply power directly to the two terminals you'll see there .

Then try reversing the leads .

If that makes it work I'd check the switches next .

The older ones are fairly simple to take apart and clean then polish the copper contacts inside, as long as you don't loose any tiny ball bearings or coil springs this will make the switches work like new again .

Remember : POLISH the contact, never abrade nor sand them ! .

New switches are not terribly expen$ive these days, junkyard parts are questionable at best unless you know how to test them before purchasing .

Don't forget to com back and tell us how it all went .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I tried the remote power source to the 2 terminals inside the door and nothing. So I ordered a used working regulator from eBay. I will report back once it's installed. Then on to the other side which also does not work.

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1990 300d 2.5 turbo
1995 E300d

I have a 91 300D. Does the motor come apart from the regulator? I have not taken the front passenger side door apart yet. All the windows on my car work, except the front passenger side.

jdulle, if you can get the motor out by itself, and test it power wise? If it does not work, the motor may be bad or in need of cleaning and relubing.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

A *very* good point ! .

If the E-Bay motor works, spread out a large light colored towel and take the old motor apart and gently clean it, lubricate the bushings with high temp. short fiber grease (not too much !) and wipe the black crud off the commutator then re assemble .

Electric motors tend to be pretty simple .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

All good suggestions above. I have had similar problems with a rear window that doesnt get used often and would also get stuck. A few things to try. The motor has a metal cover on it attached by 4-5 torx screws. Try loosening those screws 2 turns each, then try the switch or power directly to the motor leads and see if it frees up. If you have a second pair of hands, have someone clamp the window glass with their hands and pull the window downwards as the switch is activated. It could also be stuck to the window channel if not used in a long time. The friction between the window channel and dried up grease in the cable spool behind the metal cover is likely preventing the unit from operating.

If you do get it working, open the window so that you can remove the regulator assembly, remove the metal cable spool cover and clean out the old grease and relube. You may also want to clean the window channels in the door and apply some graphite with a Q-tip to the channels. After that, remember to exercise the window every so often.

If you have continuity thru the motor, the motor is good, your problem is likely due to the aforementioned issues.

Good luck

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Stable Mates:
1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans)
2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee)

I got the new regulator, but have not figured out how to get the old one out yet. I might give it a try today.

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1990 300d 2.5 turbo
1995 E300d

So I ended up cutting the cable to get the old regulator out. I tried penetrating lubricant everywhere I could hit, and tried loosening the Torx head screws on the back but it is hard to get to all of them with the regulator installed. I pulled back and forth on the cable trying to get it unseized in the spool by the motor, but nothing. The new one went in without a hitch and now it works. I lubricated the metal that the plastic clip rides up and down on. Also the pulleys. I should have probably taken apart the motor of the new one and cleaned up...but it works fine now. At first it was a little slow to leave the full up position, so I'll have to lube the window channels with graphite. Now to put the door back together and start on either the front passenger, or drivers side rear. Hopefully the next one I'll be able to save.

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1990 300d 2.5 turbo
1995 E300d