Just got my 1978 300D back from a major tune-up. The repair said that I needed to replace the

1. Drag link and stearing shift. What is this? What is the cost of this?

2. Two engine mounts. Do you have to pull the engine out to do this?

When I trun the key to "2" to warm the glow plugs the light goes off in 2 seconds. The reapir person said that it could have been replaced with a new grow plug relay that warms them very fast. Is there such thing?

Thanks for all your help,

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hippie elmo,

You don't say which type of glow plug you have. Is it the old series type or the newer one with the relay mounted on the fender? If you've the fender mounted relay, don't worry, it normally takes no more than fours seconds to time out the light. You know one thousand one, one thousand two,......

If it starts in two seconds on a cold morning don't fix it, it ain't broke.

Ben

hippie elmo,

Me again, where did you get your tune up? If I ever need anything fixed by anyone else, like suspension etc., I take it to A & F Imports in Oakland. It's great service, ask for Eric, a young German who really knows his business and is amusing, too.

Also, the Pleasnaton Line, BART station is about 100 yards from their place, so if you have to leave it, you can get home easily.


Ben

i will have check to see were the glow plug relay is. Where on the fender would be? Or were under the dash would be?

I take it to German AutoClinic in Walnut Creek. Never had a problem with them! They know there stuff.

I have heard of A & F, the person that I bought the 280 from went there a couple of times.

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hippie elmo,

Glow plug relay is on the driver's side fender well under the hood. Little black box about 2"x4" with wires leading to each glow plug. It's right down on the front leading edge of the fender near the windshiled washer reservoir.

Ben

You don’t have to pull the engine to replace the motor mounts, but you do have to lift it off of the mounts. Do a search for motor mounts, you’ll find some good tips in there.

JohnM
1983 240D 153K 4sp

hippie_elmo,

Don't know what the steering shift is but the drag link is one of the parts of the steering system. In general terms, since I am not familiar with the specifics here, the steering system is made of a bunch of links that form a parallelogram of sorts that is longer than it is high. The top two corners can pivot, but are fixed to the car's body. The bottom two corners can pivot as well as move across the car. The bottom two corners also have tie rods to connect them to the front wheels to turn them as the steering is actuated. One of the vertical links is the one the steering wheel moves, while the other vertical link just maintains the geometry of the parallelogram. I believe this link is the drag link. I could be wrong though, and it might be the horizontal link. In any case the problem with all of them is the pivoting capability requires a mechanical joint with a bearing, and the bearing feature wears out. Once it has play in the joint, the steering gets loose. I do not think you can prevent this, so don't feel bad. If your steering has a little play, or the car wanders, new parts will make the system tight again. Be glad it is not the steering box that is worn out. Those are significantly more to replace than the drag link. Good Luck, Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Maybe they were referring to the 'steering shaft' but pronouncing it with an accent ?

hippie elmo,

Don't quite understand steering shift but if you mean your steering is loose, why don't you try adjusting the steering first? At least that will let you know where the problem isn't.

If you look at the top of the steering box under the hood, you'll see a large set screw sticking out of the top and a lock nut holding it in place. You can adjust the steering tighter by loosening the lock nut and turn the set screw "OUT" and then locking the set screw again. BE VERY CAREFUL !! Turn the set screw only a quarter turn at a time, lock it down and drive around the block. If you tighten the set screw TOO MUCH it feels great but when you drive the car, the steering wheel won't return as you round a corner. VERY SCARY!!! Hence the neighborhood test drive each time you adjust the set screw.

Good adjusting!!

Ben

The only thing I could think of is the the shaft that goes from the steering wheel to the steering box. It does make funny clicking noise when you turn the steering wheel. (They did spell it stearing)

Glow Plug Relay-
I checked behind the windshield washer tank and didn't see the relay, so it must be under the dash?

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hippie elmo,

If there's no relay there on the fender, check your glow plug wires. Is their just a single wire going from one glow plug to the next starting at the firewall and ending at the front glow plug? If that's what you have, you have the series setup and the glow plug light should go for about 20 seconds before it goes out. If it goes out sooner, it generally is a signal that one of your glow plugs is bad. You'd better get out your omhmeter if all of the above is correct and check out the individual plugs. If you've a Haynes manual you'll find it's very easy.

Ben

I checked and found that I have one wire going from one to another, so it is the series setup.

The glow plugs have been in the car for sometime. I think that I will replace all of them instead. I think these have been in there from 2000.

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Have you thought about upgrading to the later pin types... they are not serial... so if one goes out you still have the others... I think kits are available.. which consist of a plug to fill the bigger opening.... and the right size hole for the smaller pin types... Greg

hippie elmo,

Now we're getting somewhere. When you replace the glow plugs use only the Bosch ones as the others seldom last more than 18 months. When you take the others out, you might want to check them for the experience and even keep a couple of the good ones for spares.

BTW, my 240D '77 had the series setup but I changed it to the relay powered ones. Made up the harness and found a used relay at the junkyard. Love those four seconds warmups.

The other series setup is available from www.**************.com, I believe, but I don't know how it works. The guy who runs ************** is Kent Bergsma.


Ben

My brother has my 1977 240D. That is how I remeber that took a little longer then 3 seconds to warm the glow plugs. I might just take to the repair place I go too and tell them that the glow plugs are old and then need to replaced.(Don't have alot of time)

Would this improve anything?

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