Thanks. Visors were in good shape. Strangley, the rear view mirror was broken. I assume they are pretty standard across most from the era?

This was the same car that you and Nate were helping me with a few months back. Blue/blue 4 speed 240D.

The lady bought it new, they maintained it very well, then just...stopped driving it. They still drove other vehicles, so not sure why. My guess is that as they neglected stuff, it got some uncomfortable to drive they just didn't bother.
It vibrated inside like crazy, it felt like you were living in an electric toothbrush, just misrable to drive. Well, $60 worth of quality mounts (all 3) later, and smooth as butter..

Yep mine was stored inside too! It was so dusty that when I got the engine to operating temp the first time, the valve cover started smoking a little.

Post progress as you go! Resurrections are fun.

That is the plan with this thread!

Ah right... Amazing find. Kinda want to stockpile 240s so I never have to drive anything else.

I got it home and in the garage.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CtAIe4Pv7F4/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Plate in door says it is 10/84. Any chance this is an 85 and has the lower gear diff? The son (not grandson), whose name the vehicle was in, insisted it was an 85.

Good news so far. Engine spins freely with a wrench. Battery was new a year or two ago, charging it, but seems like it's probably shot. Will load test it once its charged.

Pulled it home with my Bluetec.

10/84 production should be an '85 model year. My guess would be it has the '85 diff ratio.

Thank you! Any way I can tell from examining the diff?

Lower left corner of the diff housing will have the ratio stamped on the machined flat.

Stamped on the diff near the cover edge.

https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2650/3867041142_0751de4923.jpg

Perfect, thanks. I'll check it out when I'm under there.

First project started. An old battery dripped corrosion. It ate away at the battery tray and paint in that area. It started rusting where the paint is stripped. Removed battery tray. Vacuumed out all the loose stuff and started to clean. Plan is to take the surface rust off and paint.

Time to start making a checklist of things this car needs.

288 on the rear diff, it's an 85!

Did some investigating/diagnosing tonight.

Charged battery fully over night. Holds charge after sitting all day. Have a load tester and will test it at some point.

Starter did engage by jumping the connections at the junction block. So that led me down the NSS road.

Jumped the two pink wires under the dash in the 4 wire plug and nothing. Put Ohm meter and connection opened upon turning the key. So, I believe that means the NSS is good, right? I started to remove the ignition tumbler. Got the cluster out and clamp removed. Couldn't remember how to pull it and then thought maybe I'm chasing the wrong thing, so stopped for the night.

I am beginning to think I may have an electrical mess on my hands.

The previous owner had the Haynes manual and I started looking at the wiring diagrams. I also had the Startek DVD. At one point I had downloaded much of the diagrams, but I'm sure that is lost somewhere 15 years ago on an old computer.

Taking suggestions for what to investigate next. I don't want to just get the engine started. I want to solve the electrical issue first.

Also noticed window switches do not work. Glow plug light did not come on. There was a large voltage drop when key is turned to position 2, so I assume the glow relay is activating, but haven't confirmed at the relay yet.

Pretty sure I have an ignition switch and matching trunk and door tumblers from a TD I parted years ago.

Think I just figured out why it won't start. Aftermarket car alarm. There is a wire spliced in to at the junction block. It must be a kill relay circuit.

Pictures coming...

Took most of the alarm system out. There was a splice in the starter wire going in to the junction box so the alarm could control and kill the starter if not enabled. This is why the starter was not engaging with the key. It now engages with the key....but couldn't start it. The motor is spinning very slowly. The battery is out of the vehicle as I'm doing some rust repair to and under the battery tray. So I used heavy duty jumper cables from the battery to the battery terminals. I don't think this was the issue (possible though,) as I load tested the battery and it didn't look good. I tried a battery I had from my 2011 X5 diesel (a few years old, but still testing okay. I changed it out as something was going on with my x5, but the battery tested good when I pulled it.) Spinning slightly faster, but still nowhere near fast enough to start an engine.

Fingers crossed it is just a battery/connection issue. Probably more likely it is something else as well like a bad starter or...eek....engine issue. We'll find out soon.