1982 W123 front rotors
 

My rotors are very thin and there is a ridge on the outer edge. . My driving is just regular daily driving. Is there a big dfference in quality between the say the BOSCH 48011656 QuietCast Premium Disc Brake Rotor. for $78. Or the O'Reilly for $31.

Is this an easy DIY job? It looks like it is. Will it be hard to get the old rotor off with that ridge there?

The O’Reilly rotors should be fine. The ridge on your current rotor will not be an issue in removing the rotor because the brake caliper must be removed prior to removing the rotor. While doing this job it is a good idea to clean and repack the wheel bearings and replace the rotor grease seal.

With the way things are today, Iam pretty sure all Rotors are being shipped in from China. Isn`t every thing?

Been a long time since I replace the Rotors etc... and it was on my 240D, and think all 123`s use the same Rotors.
One thing I do remember, I ordered Calipers from O`Really`s. I ordered ATE.
When I installed them. I could not rotate the Rotor. Loosened up the Bolts, and it would move....:confused: tighten back down, and would not turn.

I had turned in my old calipers for Core charge so they were long gone.
Took a Caliper off my parts car, and everything worked. It was an ATE.

What I finally figured out, these new Calipers are China or India made, and cheap knock off, and not ATE. Even though guy behind the parts counter said they were. turned them back in,,,but couldn`t get my old one`s back or the Core charge.
Finally called the 800 # and they told the local store to give it back to me.
Went to NAPA, and got ATE Calipers, all painted up and pretty. Few bucks more, but worth it.

As far as getting your Calipers off with the Ridge on the Rotor, put a pry bar between the Rotor and brake Pad, and push it back in, then the caliper will come off.

Just your daily driving probably doesn`t make much difference.
When you take off the Caliper, don`t let it hang by the rubber hose, tie it up with a piece of wire. Might be a good idea to replace the hoses as well, the industry standard is 7 years on hoses, buy yeah, some have been on 20 years or so. They can deteriorate from the inside also.

If you don`t know, you will need to remove the Hub to replace the Rotor. It is Bolted on from the back side.
If you reuse the Bolts, be sure to use Blue or Red lock tight on them.
Then you might as well pack the Wheel Bearings and replace the Seal
since it is all apart.

Charlie

Thanks Charmalu. What's the best way to pack the bearings?

When you have completed your forum search you will probably find this:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W123/93-SUSPEN-Front_Wheel_Bearing_Replacement/93-SUSPEN-Front_Wheel_Bearing_Replacement.htm

Packing Wheel Bearings
 

Yes, those mechanical packers work well and are dead easy to use .

They also create a mess and use too much grease, if you look on you tube there are some good videos on how to properly hand pack roller bearings ~ you do it from the _end_, not the face of the rollers and don't stop until fresh grease is coming out the far side all the way 'round .

The first time is the hardest, then you get the touch and it's fast and easy .

Packing (rear) wheel bearings by hand.

https://i.imgur.com/vWxYC1A.jpeg

Here is a write up from Pelican Parts.
It`s a W201, but the same as the W123

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-Benz/33-SUSPEN-Front_Wheel_Bearing_Replacement/33-SUSPEN-Front_Wheel_Bearing_Replacement.htm

When I repack, I wash out the old grease, then blow out the bearing with air.
Note: "Do NOT SPIN THE BEARING WITH COMPRESSED AIR" you will damage it.

Inspect it for pitting, loose bearings in the cage etc.... if good, reuse them.
Inspect the Race`s for pitting or blueing from heat damage. if so replace everything.

If in doubt, replace everything.

I use my bearing packer, then I work the excess grease in my hand to make sure it is worked into the whole bearing.
I have seen guys use a zip Lock sandwish bag to work the grease also. less messy.

I think the front Wheel bearings on all vehicles are one of the most over looked things.
and second, is flushing out the brake system.


Charlie

HI Charlie...good to see you.
 

You have been invisible here for a couple years or more.

Yeah some guy pizzed me off, and I said,"OK Iam done".
That was back around 2014.
Then we moved from Ca. to NV. in 14 because my Mom needed us.
Made 22 trips over the mountains moving all our treasures.
Bought a 86 F-250 6.9 4-spd for the move. 192K miles., for $1800,
still have it as it is the DD, now up to 347K, dang, July will be 10 years ago.
Now up to 9 Mercedes, 2 F-250 6.9, old 1 1/2 ton Corn Binder, and 2 tractors,
a 84 JD 950, and a Kioti CK30 about 12 yrs old. and a 22 ft Car trailer.
Have 4 1/4 acres with 2 shops, 40 x 50 and 30 x 18, and not big enough.

Just picked up a 617.950 for $1K, and never been run.
Guess Iam in the cheap 300TD wagon club, picked up a 85 for $400.

So not sure which iron to pull out of the fire first.....LOL

In the morning checking the list forums Iam on
FTE
Oilburners
PeachParts
Benzworld

Then searching for MB Parts, dang the supply is drying up :eek:
The water valve for the 240 heat, saw it for $560 on flea bag.
I was complaining few yrs back when it was $45.

OK back to our regular scheduled program.



Charlie

Welcome back to the visible CMU!

To do the job absolutely correct, you need a magnetic base and a dial indicator...

But it can be done by feel if you know what you are doing.

Thanks VSTECH

There use to be quite the controversary about doing it right by the book, using
the Dial Indicator to get the correct tightness.
other guys say the bearings aren`t any different than say and old Chevy or Ford, tighten
down, back of a bit and call it good. But they usually use a "Castle Nut" and a Cotter pin
fits into a slot to hold it into place.

The Mercedes uses a Nut that is slotted on one side with a Bolt that is tightened down
when you fine tune the exact spot it needs to be, then tighten the Bolt to hold the Nut
from backing off.


Charlie

WELCOME HOME CHARLIE
 

Please tell us about the old 'Binder, I'm fond of them .

I haven't heard of a "magnetic base and a dial indicator" until now. I've always done it by feel on my Mustang. Are there any good tips on how to get a good feel on this W123?