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  #1  
Old 07-26-2002, 05:31 PM
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Angry 300CD fender removal

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!! WTH did they use to keep the fenders on? Man I now know why the bolts came out easy enough, they aren't needed!!! The damn fenders are stuck on like snot to a childs lip!!! I've done a search to see what's been done in the past but wow!!!!!!

Does anyone have some idea how to do this a better way??? I am damn near contemplating using a torch to burn that seam sealant off (j/k sort of)!!!!!! The heat gun is getting pretty hot to hold!!!!!

HELP!!!!!!!

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'73 416 UNIMOG DoKa
'85 300GD G Wagen
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Old 07-26-2002, 10:16 PM
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Definitely use the torch -- you don't have to burn the sealant off, but you DO have to melt it or you will ruin the fender. It is there to keep the fender from rubbing and rusting away, so use some (3M windshield selant works fine) when you put it back on.

DO NOT try to pull it off without melting the sealant or try to pry it loose, you will bend it beyond repair. My brother and I ruined both fenders on his 75 300D (W115 chassis) trying.

You don't have to set it on fire, just get it hot. the heat gun may work, too, without the risk of setting the undercoating ablaze.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2002, 12:13 AM
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Thanks! I took me 3 or 4 hours of cutting with a utility knife to cut a trough through that damn coating. It would not have been too bad except the stuff got on top of the seam also. I did use the heat gun but that stuff WILL NOT melt! I even took a sample piece and set it buring under intense heat, it WILL NOT MELT! That has got to be the best damn undercoat/glue/rock guard even made. I dont think they could have made a better seal with the use of a vulcanizer!!!!!!

Any how, the fender is off but it looks to me to not be worth repairing. I think I can buy a good used one and have it painted for less than it would cost to replace the steel and paint over on teh old one.

The good news is that the area behind the fender nearest the door will get a good cleaning and rust treatment. I also found a couple of small holes in the rocker that will be cut out and new steel welded in. I'll get to it as soon as my back and arms stop hurting!!!!

For all those that have never looked behind their front fenders, do so! Take the inner plastic splash guard off and have a look inside. If the dirt has pilled up clean it out. The shape of the fender between the lower mounting bolts are such that the water should drain. Unfortunately for me, the dirt plugged the drain and started off the rust.
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Old 07-27-2002, 12:37 AM
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Hi Greg,a sawzall might have been able to cut through it ,or maybe not .I know what you mean about the seam sealer,when I replaced my rad support a few months ago the stuff was thicker and stronger than the metal and was about the only thing holding the rad up .
BTW your CD isn't a white one that a pilot had for sale in Ladner in the spring is it ?It was a California car with blue interior and a cracked dash.
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Old 07-27-2002, 01:42 PM
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Hey Kyle,

This is too small a world!!!!! Yes it was..were you the other guy that wanted to buy it???

I almost backed out on the deal due to the body work required, now I wondering . She is a pretty car and once I get some of these sore spots fixed she should last a long long time.
Eventually I will strip her down to bare metal and do a proper paint job. The white paint in bright sunshine hid alot of the defects, she was painted poorly once to often. I will live with it for now but eventually........

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Old 07-28-2002, 01:27 AM
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Hi Greg,I was put off by the freaky shifting (probably just an adjustment) and the rusty sunroof pan.My turtle isn't much better,I have stacked shifts and rusty quarters .I would love to find a pristine 123 coupe in my price range but most are rusty around here or way too expensive for my budget.
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Old 07-28-2002, 01:24 PM
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The sun roof wasn't too bad, the side seals were left to long and the rust was mostly from the metal binding. Still though, I took the whole thing apart and put it back together. It works fine althought the front rubber seal is the next thing that needs work. I may just try a little rubber cement to patch it along for now. I never really liked sun roofs but with the sunny weather I'm starting to like it. Still, cutting a hole in a perfectly good roof...

As for the tranny, I find it to shift fairly good albeit very firm and it does hang onto the gears a tad long. It is very much different than my 300TD, mind you, the 300TD was way out of wack at first and still gives the odd bone jarring shift when cold. I think the biggest problem with any of these vehicle is getting someone who understands the vacum system to make proper adjustments.

The fellow at ACE German Auto Parts has a nice '85 300CD and I would love to see what difference the turbo makes. I think he wants $15,000.00. for it but it does have a very clean body from what I could tell. Then again I doubt that I can/will spend $11,000.oo in paint work on my 300CD!!!
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2002, 10:01 PM
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Tough fender removal.

In case you didn't know it, the later year MBZ 123s didn't have the goo sticking the fenders on. You can always tell which are the easy-to-remove fenders by looking underneath in the fender well. If there is a large plastic liner, you've the easy ones.

Often you see the older models removed at the junkyard using a power saw. They saw it off inside the engine compartment and take it home to work off the goo.

Ben
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  #9  
Old 07-29-2002, 12:23 PM
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Now that makes sense!! It took me a damn long time to get that fender off and some of the fender and some of the car got a little bent in the process , all easily fixed but I still think I'll be buying a replacement (because of the rust). Thanks for the info!! Hopefully the next poor bastard that tries to take off a fender can read this and can make a better decision or plan of attack.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:47 PM
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Well said!! Now I know it ain't worth the trouble for a small dent !!

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