caster arms? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 07-29-2002, 01:05 PM

Hi,

Took my 83 300d to the dealer to get oil cooler lines done, and I had them take a look at the suspension, because when I first start up the car, ofter if Im turning the wheel a lot I hear some groaning (PS fluid is fine), and sometimes if I go over a bump or the road changes elevation when going around a corner, I hear a loud pop in one of the front ends. I figure it was a ball joint, but I wanted them to look. THey told me the following:

-Upper control arms $650
-Caster arms $830

I have never heard of the caster arms, and a search didnt give me much. Are these a thing that usually go bad? Where are they?

Also, where are the ball joints, so I can look at them and see if they are busted, as I still feel they are. If they are cracked or borken, can I somehow pack gease into them so that I can keep them working as well as possible until I can get an independent shop to do it with fastlane parts.

If Im doing ball joints and upper control arms, what else should I get done at the same time?

I still hae to do my rotors/pads, but I always seem to be finding new projects...

Thanks

JMH

Elripster · #2 07-29-2002, 03:10 PM

They are often call guide rods as well. If you search under guide rods you'll find some info. In a nutshell, you probably need the ball joints at the rear of the guide rod. I need them as well.

On the subject of ball joints, check here for a post I put up recently.

Frank.

MVK · #3 07-29-2002, 07:40 PM

90 bucks for both control arms 8 bucks for the outer bushings.
About 100 bucks parts.
A good mechanic will charge you max 2 hrs for the job. that a total of 140/-
Upper control arms replaced total cost 240/-

I an going to do it myself. Its pretty simple. You need a ball joint separator. about 20 bucks.

Dealer is too expensive. Read below before you replace.

Wait before you replace upper control arm bushings

MVK

#4 07-30-2002, 07:09 AM

I would run as fast as I could away from that shop, they are really trying to rip you off.

Have a great day,

JHZR2 · #5 07-30-2002, 07:50 AM

Its a dealer... so yes, they are trying to rip me off... Im trying to find a good independent that especially knows about MB and BMWs, in the Wilmington, DE area.
Anyone know of any by chance???

janko · #6 07-30-2002, 07:53 AM

little off track. but this is close to home here. how much did the "dealer" charge to r/r the oil cooler lines? hope i am not too nosey. have a 5 cylinder that is seeping oil at a good clip from one of the lines. thank you.

JHZR2 · #7 07-30-2002, 08:00 AM

The dealer was asking $420... I figure there is $80-100 worth of parts if I got them from here at fastlane, and from all the posts on the forum, it seems that there are all sorts of hard issues with this, from stripping the cooler threads to snaking the lines through by removing motor mounts, and it is the type of thing that you really need a lift and time, neither of which I have...

JMH

janko · #8 07-30-2002, 09:06 AM

i have read much here on replacing the lines. my understanding is that the cost to the do-it-yourselfer is between $45 and $65. the lower is the cost to have the rubber section replaced by hydraulic shop. the higher cost also the hydraulic shop but with an enhancement that allows subquent replacement without removal of the assembly itself. i have no life and was thinking about doing it myself. i wonder if that cooler is really necessary!!!!!

william rogers · #9 07-31-2002, 01:33 AM

Diesels are heat engines, that oil cooler is very importion in the whole cooling process, oil cooler lines from Fast lane are not expensive but engines are. I had no problem replaceing them on 81 SD just be carefull of alum,fittings on cooler be sure to use two proper fitting wrenchs and get them started well on threads with fingers......
William Rogers.......

kerry · #10 07-31-2002, 11:44 AM

The oil cooler can't be absolutely necessary. I have a 1983 Mercedes 307d motorhome in the UK with the 616 engine that is basically the same as the motor in 240d's. It has no oil cooler on it and it came from the factory that way. It also does not have air conditioning. I suspect that the oil cooler is a bit of overkill unless you are running AC in west Texas. I'd be curious to know if anyone has done any experimenting to figure out how often the thermostat in the oil cooler opens to cool down the oil. Has anyone put an oil temperature guage on their engines?