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  #1  
Old 07-27-2002, 09:03 AM
KylePavao
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Talking Rough Idle in 240D Fixed

After my son kept on saying "you need a new glow plug somewhere" I finally broke down and checked the connections. Sure enough number 2 was shot. Replaced and and now it has nice easy starts. Also, being the fiberglass man that I am I put on a couple of "10 year patches" on the one whole in the floor. Now its covered with two layers of fiberglass, fberglass foam, and sheetmetal. Also putting fiberglass on the exterior rust areas. So far I have put about 89 bucks into my free Mercedes. Mabe "The Most Expensive Thing is a cheap Mercedes" proverb doesn't apply to free cars. It is daily driver condition now, but I want it to look decent, and not like an Indian Taxi Cab Thanks for your help, use Haynes and the Search Feature alot!

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  #2  
Old 07-28-2002, 11:28 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 237
Would appreciate any body rot repair tricks/photos. My only experience with fiberglass was on the standard W123 Battery tray/firewall leak procedure. Needed for my "next to free" 1967 MB that has some floorpan and lower door rust issues.

I am looking for cheap but decent repair as that is all that can be justified. I will do my own repaint by air gun (haven't done before but I have a large compressor and will buy a gun) or by ordered spray paint mixed to original paint code (cream color).

All help appreciated.
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2008 GL320CDI 6K
1970 280SL 112K
1982 240D 210K (Sold)
1973 220D 220K (Sold)
1967 200D 160K (Sold)
1992 400E 139K (Sold)
1988 300E 148K (Sold)
1987 300D 257K (Sold)
1991 300E 108K (Sold)
1987 300E 131K (Sold)
1978 300D TMU (Sold)
1980 300D TMU (Sold)
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2002, 01:08 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: south carolina
Posts: 44
cheap floor rust repair

carolina mbz, look up the eastwood co. they market a reasonable floor pan rust repair kit that does a great job from what I understand. It won't work on large, gaping holes but small ones,surface rust and pinholes are what it's intended for. They market stuff they call POR 15 that works fantastic on rust. Used in combination with a two-part epoxy putty that is worked into the floor you end up with a rock-hard repair. It's not terribly pretty but it's under the carpet anyway and, if done correctly, will never rust again. I've used the POR-15 and have been satisfied with the results. I haven't tried the floor pan kit but will if the situation arises and don't want the expense of floor pan replacement. They also sell DIY powder coating kits and tons of stuff for the DIY restorer.Not sure of the exact e-mail address but they're easy to find.Hope this helps. By the way, I'm in Greenville Co. Not too far from you.
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  #4  
Old 07-28-2002, 01:43 PM
KylePavao
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Commercial Boating fiberglass...

This stuff works wonders...repaired our bathtub with it, and the pretty big hole in our floor on te 240D....normal stuff you can buy at wal mart works if you use the thick mat
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  #5  
Old 07-28-2002, 02:31 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 237
Used POR-15 in the 240D. Good stuff. I now believe the skin warning regarding not coming off (thought I would be "neat" with it). Any tips on the doors?

Also, a parts guy in Oregon warned about a petroleum product that came applied by the factory on the pans in the 60's cars that prevents fiberglass adhesion in the pans. Any experience on this issue?

Oldfrt46, any awareness of a local GTG effort?
__________________
2008 GL320CDI 6K
1970 280SL 112K
1982 240D 210K (Sold)
1973 220D 220K (Sold)
1967 200D 160K (Sold)
1992 400E 139K (Sold)
1988 300E 148K (Sold)
1987 300D 257K (Sold)
1991 300E 108K (Sold)
1987 300E 131K (Sold)
1978 300D TMU (Sold)
1980 300D TMU (Sold)
MBCA Member
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  #6  
Old 07-28-2002, 08:33 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: south carolina
Posts: 44
carolina mbz

How bad are the doors? I guess it would depend on where the problem is (exterior or interior) as to the best thing to do. I'm not an experienced body man by any means but there are some really knowledgable ones on the forum.
I haven't heard a thing about any local events. Although Charleston would be a fantastic place to hold one!
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  #7  
Old 07-28-2002, 09:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 502
Patching rusted out areas

The comment about the petroleum material causing the fiberglass patch to not adhere is correct. However, you can make the fiberglass stick if you first do a layup on the inside and once that's cured, do a similar layup on the underside. The two lay ups from either side will stick together and effectively form a chemical bond with each other holding the patch in place.

The patch will be like a rivet with a flanged head on either side. Since there will not be a perfect, water-tight patch with the petroleum material, you might want to use some sealant like a caulking compound around the outer edges of the fiberglass patch on the top and bottom.

BTW, you might want to start the patch on the inside with some fine cloth which will lay down easier than the non-woven fiberglass. By all means neutralize the rust with the suggested material before using the fiberglass. Several of the rust neutralizers have a specific product that can be fiberglassed right over without any additional primer.

Ben
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  #8  
Old 08-01-2002, 02:48 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 237
Thanks guys.

Doors have pin hole and a little bigger spots at bottoms. Will try layup as it seems like a good approach. Will be a while until I begin though. I will post progress with (i'm sure) requests for advice after I begin thoughs.

Thanks.

__________________
2008 GL320CDI 6K
1970 280SL 112K
1982 240D 210K (Sold)
1973 220D 220K (Sold)
1967 200D 160K (Sold)
1992 400E 139K (Sold)
1988 300E 148K (Sold)
1987 300D 257K (Sold)
1991 300E 108K (Sold)
1987 300E 131K (Sold)
1978 300D TMU (Sold)
1980 300D TMU (Sold)
MBCA Member
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