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  #1  
Old 08-03-2002, 08:00 PM
MVK MVK is offline
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Fixed my lock cylinder on driver s side

Hi folks:
I just thought I would share this with you.

My car's driver-side lock stopped responding to key after behaving wierd for 6 months or so. During those 6 months tried everything including, WD-40, silicone spray, liquid wrench, lithium grease, brake cleaner, graphite lock spray etc etc.. you name it.

Also got a 15 bucks new key from dealer. Nothing worked. Not even an improvement. The key would go in but not twist. All other mechanism of locking were good. So I was sure that it was the lock cylinder.

Took the lock-assembly out and decided to take it apart to get to the cylinder. A very easy job. There is a small pin ( looks like one in the watch strap) that needs to be removed by using a small nail an tiny hammer. Once thats out, the cylinder can be removed easily by putting the key in the keyhole and pushing the cylinder out from other side.

I saw one of the square tooth on the cylinder was not fully retracted when the key was in and that was the tooth that would have prevented the twist of the cylinder, so pulled it out with a small plier and there was a small brass spring under it which was bent and out of shape. Pulled the spring out, slide it over a eye glass repair screw driver and manipulated till it was straight.( you can find such springs at locksmiths place too). Replaced the spring in its place, put back the metal tooth, cleaned the whole lock cylinder with engine degreaser, then brake cleaner.
Refitted the whole thing in reverse sequence and BINGO it works like a new one. Also lubricated with graphite lock spray.

Total cost $0.00
Total time 40 minutes
Job satisfaction......... PRICELESS.


In summary-- if your lock is not working and its for sure the cylinder mechanism, its worth fixing it yourself or a locksmith.
I am sure a locksmith would charge you about 20 bucks for such a job( afetr you have removed the lock assembly from the door). Its still better than getting a new lock with a different key for 90 bucks. or an old one from junk yard for 40-50 bucks and again with different key.

Hope this helps some folks.


MVK
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  #2  
Old 08-03-2002, 09:07 PM
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MVK:

I think the best phrase in your write-up was "job satisfaction.....PRICELESS". I continue to be amazed at the MB's ability to get fixed and run well verses the popular culture's idea of throw away cars. Congrats

Don
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  #3  
Old 08-03-2002, 09:32 PM
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Thanks Don.
I thought no one will see this big write up.

MVK
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2002, 10:14 AM
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MVK
Good show. I will file your repair away as it may happen to me some day. Thanks
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Old 08-04-2002, 01:05 PM
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MVK great idea I saw it,and I'll file it for future use Doesn't it feel great when you tackle a problem like that and it turn's out for the best.Bear
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2002, 01:19 PM
MVK MVK is offline
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Yes it sure makes me feel good. Also the fact that its a very little thing that most of the times is fixable with little or no money thus avoiding major expense.
Like fixing the alternator carbon brushes, blower motor carbon brushes, replacing bearing and brushes on Auxillary cooling fan, fixing the aux water pump etc etc. to name a few.

I thinks these cars are very good and home-mechanic friendly.

Thank you all for your support.

MVK
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Old 08-05-2002, 04:43 PM
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MVK,
Thank you for the post. You gave me the confidence to go after my non-functioning trunk lock. turned out to be merely a stuck slide in the cylinder (grease and other gook). CLeaned it, put it back in, and Viola! no more need to let the vac. lock the trunk!
Thanks again!!
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  #8  
Old 08-05-2002, 06:10 PM
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You are welcome Wallknight.
Thats all we need once in a while- A little xtra push to get courageous enough to tackle a job that otherwise looks impossible.


MVK
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  #9  
Old 09-14-2003, 01:44 AM
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I'm curious: If the key would not turn, how was the lock removed from the door handle?
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  #10  
Old 09-14-2003, 01:56 AM
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I've got a spare handle (without a key) that I want to get MY keyed cylinder into, because of the alarm switch. I've got the handle all apart (found all the roll pins), but can't get the old cylinder out since I don't have a key. Any ideas?
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2004, 09:02 AM
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MVK, I have the same problem. Your write-up is excellent. Can you (or someone) tell me how to get the lock assembly out of the door ? I do know how to get the door panel off. I 'll probably go ahead and do the check strap this time, if I have to get in there. Driver's doors take a beating. Thanks all.
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2005, 01:46 AM
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I'll be trying this on my new 240 Tomorrow!
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2005, 01:55 AM
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My drivers door lock works worse and worse as the temp falls
I have put graphite and wd-40 in it a plenty, the wd-40 helps quite a bit, but it wears off. In a year or two I'll probably just have to get a new lock for it. The passenger one works so flawlessly, I wish the drivers one felt/worked like that....can they be switched? I would imagine not because of the vac locks switch thing....but maybe they can.....anyone know?
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2005, 02:04 AM
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I would try taking it apart and taking a look. It doesnt sound like it is too dificult of a procedure. My key wont even turn the lock.
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2005, 04:30 AM
Brandon314159
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Non-turning locks as usually related to failing/worn leaves or springs that are basically done.

OR the tumbler is wearing out and the leaves now wobble around in there and don't work properly (my problem).

Just remember that the spring was messed up for a reason...I would not be too terribly suprised if you are back in there before too long with a very similar problem. Next time you are at the wrecking yard start lookin for a passenger side door lock tumbler to put your leaves into.

Thats what I did on the SD...I've had that door lock out about 7 times. *sigh*

Ya get good at it after awhile
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