|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Purge took forever!
OK, my purge came in the mail today and I followed the directions. Only thing is, it took closer to 20 or 25 minutes for it to finally get down towards the bottom of the jar...
I dumped the last few cc's into the gas tank. It will be interesting to see if it makes a difference or not (I've only had the car since April and I'm really pleased with its performance overall). Only smokes under hard acceleration. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
That sounds about right Shawn, 20 to 25 minutes is what it usually takes me.
If your car was running well before the purge, you probably won't notice much of a difference in its performance now, but you've done the ole girl a favor none the less.
__________________
Dave 1995 C280 1999 Triumph Daytona 955I - my speed fix. 1982 300TD - Gone, but not forgotten. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quick question if you please...
I have an 83 300D (360K mi)...I have been dropping an occasional bottle of biocide into the tank...what's this purge stuff and what does it do? My engine uses very little oil between (3-4000 mile) changes, and smokes (not much at that) under hard acceleration. Would you guys mind explaining this "purge" thing? Mike |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
The Biocide is to kill the algae which can live in the area between the diesel fuel and any water at the bottom of your tank... Your doing a good thing to keep it killed...
The Purge is for cleaning the injectors, and I assume the precombustion chambers also...recommended by MB I believe.... and by many on this forum.... I mail ordered two cans and they are keeping my trunk from being empty... have not tried it yet... too much time on the tractor lately... 3 weeks of rain in July in Central Texas made the grass go crazy.... |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Good question, I'm a newbie too...
I'm sure that somebody else with more experience can do a better job of explaining than me but here goes:
Diesel Purge is formulated out of diesel fuel and injector-cleaning compounds. You run it straight through your engine by essentially bypassing the fuel supply and return lines. You are essentially giving your injectors a "shower" while the engine runs. Supposedly this super-cleans the injectors, more than any fuel treatment you would add to your tank, and cuts down on unburned fuel and, therefore, smoke. Depending on how dirty your injectors are, it is possible that you may realize increased performance as well. It is recommended that diesel owners perform this service approximately every 6 months. I don't think that it would effect oil consumption in any way. Anybody else want to have a go at its/ |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks to Shawnster and Leathermang,
Follow up - I have been told that there in an in-tank "filter" that may become clogged over time and restrict fuel flow...does this "purge" go into a nearly empty tank or is it introduced elsewhere in the fuel system? Is there any way to keep this in-tank filter clean without dropping the tank and replacing said filter? Mike |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
It is not my impression that you have to "drop the tank " to change that filter...look in your manual...
The biocide is what kills algae in the tank... and when first introduced may cause a mass of algae to let go of the tank and float to the filter... The purge is used " straight" from a clear container, so you can stop the engine before you suck any air into the injector.... you hook up a line from the container to the fuel system under the hood.... and run the car about 20 minutes to use up most, but not all, of the purge... It is not put into the gas tank ,,, it is used full strength into the injection system to clean the injectors... |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
The intank filter is a screw in type screen filter that is mounted in the center bottom of the tank. Not hard to remove, but you may have your hands full getting the fuel out before. Unless you have some real problems it is not usually on the routine maintenence list.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
If you look under the rear of your car just behind the half shafts, you will see on both sides places where fuel lines attach to the tank. On the filler (passenger) side, the line is attached to what looks like a large nut (maybe 1 and 1/2 inches accross). That is the bottom of the fuel strainer. To get it out you have to loosen that nut, which takes a special tool or, as in my case, a firm attachment via a pair of vise grips. Prepare yourself for a fuel bath when it comes out.
On the opposite side is the fuel return line from the engine (I think) and the continuation of the line that started at the strainer. They can leak too at the connections and/or just age on the fuel lines. I replaced my strainer just as a preventive thing and sure enough, it had some black crud on it. Used a de-algifier week before. Good luck. Nic '85 300CD |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
I have heard of people blowing the crud from the tank strainer by using compressed air (gently), but seems like it would probably plug back up pretty quickly. Might be OK as a troubleshooting technique though.
__________________
Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|