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Old 08-12-2002, 11:31 PM
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fan clutch replacement

Just wondering if anyone out there has replaced a fan clutch lately. I'm trying to figure out what the proper procedure is in those tight quarters ('87 300 tdt / 603xxx ), will it be necessary to take the radiator out? Sorry if this has been covered but the search didn't yield any specific steps. Thanks in advance.

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Old 08-13-2002, 07:37 PM
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Anyone?
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Old 08-13-2002, 07:54 PM
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I'll make a couple comments here but realize I have never changed one on the W124 diesel - just the W124 with the 104 engine. You can remove/replace the fan clutch on the 104 without removing the radiator. The hardest part is "locking" in the clutch mechanism. You have to have a "special" locking tool which can be fabricated using a straight piece of round stock bent on the end. Do a search and you will find alot of discussion.
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Old 08-13-2002, 09:38 PM
George-c
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Hi Bryan,

I just faced this problem in my 80 wagon this weekend. The new clutch cost $243 at the dealer, a new electric fan with thermostadt switch & wiring cost $200 (Kar Parts). I too searched for a step by step instruction that I could follow for the fan clutch with out any luck.

The electric fan works very nice. Less draw on the motor too.

The next time I face the same situation in one of my other cars, I'm going electric there too.

~George~
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Old 08-13-2002, 09:48 PM
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Thanks for the tip Engatwork-

George-c, did I understand correctly that you substituted the fan clutch for an electric version? or are you talking about the auxilary fan. Please inform me, thanks. Bryan
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Old 08-14-2002, 02:46 PM
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Bryan,

George is referring to the fan on a different car & different engine. It sounds like he left the failed clutch on the car (or removed it) and just added a separate electric. DO NOT do this on your car! You need both the factory mechanical fan as well as the auxiliary electric. George's older OM617 engine has less cooling demands than your OM603 does, and with the OM603 head cracking issue, you don't want to mess around with that.


I have the same car as you do and have done this multiple times. If you don't have the special tools, it's easier to just pull the radiator. The special tools are:

1- Extra short 8mm hex socket, use with 3/8 breaker bar & #2 below
2- Pulley holder to keep the pulley fom turning
3- Spinner to spin the bolt out once it's broken loose (with #'s 1 & 2)

With the above tools, it takes about 5 minutes to have it out of the car. Without them, figure 30-60 minutes and lots of skinned knuckles and swearing. (Don't ask how I know.) Pulling the radiator is time-consuming but straightforward, might want to replace the tranny cooler hoses down there if they're all wet (they're usually due after 10 years or 100kmi.) It's a good idea to pull it out so you can thoroughly clean off the bugs & debris from the fins, as well as the crud that collects between the rad & condenser. It will take an hour or two, though, not a quick job.

FYI, the little special socket from MB is less than $10, but the pulley holder is something like $75, ditto for the spinner. I bought the first 2 and don't regret it. I made my own spinner from scrap metal & Home Depot parts for about $5, works great!


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