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  #16  
Old 08-21-2002, 03:04 AM
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Once again, a great forum this.....

If any of you reading this happens to know of where I can find a mint 87 SDL or 87 300D with the 6 cylinder, let me know.

Thanks Diesel fans.

Peter4

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  #17  
Old 08-21-2002, 06:08 AM
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There is an '87 here in Macon, Ga. for sale. Email me and I will send you the phone number, etc. I test drove the car and it seemed to drive out well. I did not find any rust on it either.
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2002, 10:36 AM
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Peter4,

That's the one down side to looking for specific years & models - you may need to travel across the country to get the "right one". Stick to southern & western states, obviously, to avoid rust. The 300D was imported in limited numbers, something like 4000 or so? The SDL was more common, I want to say over 10000 at least during 86/87. I don't have Nitske's book with the exact numbers and my memory's a little fuzzy.

Also - the 86 SDL is identical to the 87, and may be preferable because they didn't have the trap oxidizer...


Happy hunting,
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:35 AM
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Looking for Turbo diesel near Los Angeles

It was mentioned in an earlier post that the vacuum pump will need replacement every 150-200kmi , as well as the serpentine belt tensioner every 50-100k, and cooling system parts (fan clutch & radiator) with some frequency. What do these parts tend to run?

It seems to me that I need to find a car that was really maintained well, so that the trap oxidizer removal was done in good time to prevent engine cracking. I read about the trap oxidizer issue several days ago when I started looking at these turbo diesels, but I was unaware that the ramifications of it could be so dire.

For the time being I'm going to try to find a car around here that I can see and take to the mechanic that was recommended to me in this wonderful forum. I very much appreciate engatwork's (Jim's) suggestion regarding the car in Georgia, but for a variety of reasons I can't get out of LA for some time.

So it appears that the 1986 SDL has the same six cylinder engine? I would imagine it would be the end of the year '86 model, is that right, or was it throughout the year?

I understand that the 300D is lighter and similar, and has better acceleration. How much smaller is it? Do you give up a lot of the wonderful rear seat room of the SDL? Lastly, are there models of the '86 300D which have the six cylinder turbo diesel without the trap oxidizer?

Once again, thanks guys.

Peter4
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2002, 12:14 PM
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Vac pump is currently $175, although two months ago all the vendors had it for $275. Belt tensioner lever arm is $50, and the is shock $30. Fan clutch is about $250, radiator is ~$300 for new or ~$150 to have your original rebuilt from Reseda Radiator. If you buy a car that already has these items replaced, the only thing you need to watch is the belt tensioner, and the temp gauge in the summer. FYI, with all new cooling system parts, the temp gauge should never go over 100C, or 105C in extreme conditions. If you test drive a car that exceeds those temps, especially if it's not that hot out, it has a cooling system issue - which you can use to negotiate on the price, if you still want the car.

The trap oxidizer appears to be a partial cause of excessive heat load on the head, but the head cracking could also occur if the car overheated without the trap too. It's not THAT common but you should at least be aware of it. A new head will cost $2500-$4000 installed, depending on the shop.

The 1986/87 SDL's all had the same engine. The 1981-85 SD's all had the old iron head engine. There are no iron-head SDL's and no aluminum-head SD's (at least in the W126 chassis, not counting the 1992-up W140 chassis, which is $20k+ used).

The 300D is smaller, lighter, and looks similar outside. The interior is quite different, and yes you lose the rear leg room. Take a look at any 1986-1995 E-class for a size comparison, only the engine and cosmetics are different during those 10 years. And no, there was no 1986 model 300D in the USA - if you find one, it would be a gray-market import (and I don't think they exist - MB put a non-turbo OM603 in the Euro cars!)

There's a post over at MBZ.org about buying a 1987 300D, I wrote the first part, and Doc Booth did the second part (note his comments about the 2 sound panels, they cost roughly $200 each!)

http://www.mbz.org/info/articles/misc/used124/





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  #21  
Old 08-21-2002, 06:51 PM
TANK
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SDL is a great car

Biggest model in 86-87. Tons of room inside and trunk. Largest engine in 80's. Aluminum head? No big deal, tons of new cars have them today. Iron heads are subject to cracking as well, just check the posts. It's quiet, refined, and I think the 0-60 is more into the 12's leaving only maybe a second differnce between it's smaller partner. But remember, it's an old car.

You will prob have lots of repairs to get it back to spec. Vacuum pump, fan clutch, motor mounts, engine shocks. Not to mention front suspension parts could total upwards of $2k alone, possibly radiator, alternator, water pump, etc.

I paid 5k for mine with 129k. It didn't need a water pump or alternator but needed lots of other stuff. The front ends are highly suceptible to vibrations if the smallest suspension part is out of spec. Right now, my steering wheel vibrates. I have new shocks, tires, steering shock, tie-rods, drive-shaft loop(it rots out, after 15 years and causes vibrations in steering and seats), rebuilt power steering gearbox, and yes it is still vibrating, less but still. Why? I need new lower ctrl arm bushings. I put new slotted rotors on it (ATE). After 2 months of driving, they are warped. My car shakes when I brake. Phil is sending out new one's. Vore's still out on ATE we shall see. It's a great car when you get it there though. I am $9k later. Sunroof still doesn't work, a/c is borderline. If you want to see my itemization take a look at tech post "naked truth." It has all maint recs to 80k miles and vin chk came up original mileage. I don't know if sd's have similar probs or not after years of use?
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  #22  
Old 08-21-2002, 07:56 PM
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Should look for later model?

Wow. The last post made me ponder whether I should look at a 1990 300D, for example, a car I've heard well of. I have no idea of the HP or Torque of that model.

What I was hoping for was a mint condition car that would require little or no immediate repairs. Would a 1990 300D be a McKeough more reliable choice?
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  #23  
Old 08-21-2002, 08:12 PM
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Peter4,

The 1990-92 300D has essentially the same engine but one cylinder less, the OM602.96x. It is rated roughly 120hp. Since the engine is VERY similar, it will have all the same problems as the 87 with belt tensioner, vac pump, etc. The one problem it does NOT have is the head cracking issue. I have yet to hear of any OM602 with a cracked head. It gets better MPG as a bonus, to make up for the lost power. It should get 30-35mpg on the freeway. Great car, and with all the body updates too!

Don't let the last post scare you too much. It's been said there's no car more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. If you buy one that needs a ton of work, it will cost a fortune. The trick is to wait and only buy one that the previous owner(s) have already sunk the major $$ into. This may take months, and require looking at dozens of cars... it also takes the willpower to say "no" to some tempting ones that don't quite meet your predetermined standards. Oh, btw, I found a very nice 1987 300D on the east coast yesterday (MD, I think?) for the VERY reasonable price of $2900! It's smoke silver with blue interior, 240kmi. A little far from LA, though.

I paid $2000 for my second 300D, right after the PO spent $4k for a new dealer trans & torque converter. He was fed up with sinking $ into the car. He had $22k in repairs over an 8 year period! I bought it knowing what it needed, though, and what it didn't need (he had all records). It needed a blower motor ($125 used), cruise amp ($175 rebuilt), vacuum pump ($225 at the time), belt stuff ($75 or so), brakes all around ($200), vac pods for the climate control ($100 + lots of work), tires (I got C280 Sport wheels & tires for $450), and various other odds & ends. So for $3-3.5k so far I have a decent daily driver. His loss, my gain. It still needs a new head though, which I've been delaying as the symptoms haven't been getting worse.

Just do NOT buy a 1990-1995 S-class diesel, these have the 3.5L OM603.97x engines with the bottom end problem... they're out of your price range anyway, so you shouldn't have to worry about it.

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  #24  
Old 08-21-2002, 10:17 PM
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diesels mercedes

i went on ebay and bought a '84 300d with 147k miles for 32 hundred bucks.i've spent 350 bucks bringing it up to par,new belts ,hoses,change the fluids and had the valves adjusted.i've driven the car 23k miles in a little over a year.26-28 miles to the gallon. do i sound pleased--you bet!
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  #25  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:44 PM
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I forget who it was...

But there was one of our boys in NJ selling his 300 SDL. It looked like the best example of THAT car you could hope for.

Based on his comments/input that I've seen before, if I had the cash, I'd go out there and drive it home. I already asked, the wife said no.

I think he was asking 6,ooo, no rust. I bought my 300SD for $2300, but needs paint, and NO documentation.
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  #26  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:48 PM
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It was turbodiesel's 300 SDL...he must have sold it (?)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopfor...&threadid=44319
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  #27  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:56 PM
TANK
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"It's been said there's no car more expensive than a cheap Mercedes."

"Oh, btw, I found a very nice 1987 300D on the east coast yesterday (MD, I think?) for the VERY reasonable price of $2900! It's smoke silver with blue interior, 240kmi."

Are we contradicting ourselves here??Gee that's $2100 less than what I paid for mine and the car you bought was $3000 less than my purchase price? umm, I think you might be confusing Peter here. Let me set the record straight, most of what gsxr said is correct. However, just because it's cheap or expensive purchase does not determine if it's going to be a good car for you. I paid $5000 for mine which is $3000 more than gsxr paid for his yet I had to do more repairs.

Just stick with these rules.

#1 pretty much any 86-87sdl is going to cost you $$ either pay now or pay later depending on po repairs. I happen to like the car so much, I am ok because I know it will last looong time. I doubt you'll find one thats been totally repaired like mine and selling cheap. I 've never seen one yet.

#2 No matter what the maintenance record, if it has the original parts that it came from the factory with 16 yrs ago, they will wear out sooner rather than later. NOT the engine, or tranny in my o but most likely accessories I mentioned earlier.

#3 If you don't want to put out as much money, go with a newer model year car like gsxr said but definitely STAY AWAY from the 350, it will blow up on you.

My friend has a 1991300d at it runs excellently after only 2k in repairs. But like my car, as it gets older, the engine will run forever but accessories may give up the ghost. He doesn't agree with me.

ps, they don't seem much slower than mine but is a trade off for size.

What does all this mean? I drive an huge $57k "S" class with a turbo-diesel engine, best combination with 86-87. So I've paid $14-15k for it, that's less than a hundya and 1000 times nicer! It's ok to buy one for 5-7k, but unless they've done to yours, what I've done to mine, be ready to sheel out some $$'s at some point. Then drive it home and have fun!!
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  #28  
Old 08-22-2002, 12:02 AM
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No, I don't think he did sell it, it's just a bad link. Go look in "cars" on this site. It's turbodiesel i think and it's a very nice car for the $k! ps. He has TONS of records. Sorry if I scared anybody! I didn't mean too. Just be prepared and get the records!
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  #29  
Old 08-22-2002, 12:11 AM
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Tank, yep, you are correct, that did sound contradictory. Normall a clean '87 will run $5-7k. I sort of know the owner from the diesel email list, and I'm pretty sure it's well maintained. The photos looked pretty sharp. I was surprised at the low asking price but I wasn't going to argue. Might be a depressed used car market in his area right now? I'm saying that if it's what it appears to be and checks out, it's a good deal. But MANY cars that are priced below "normal" can get expensive fast. This one is, I believe a 2-owner, dealer serviced car with records from owner #1 through 100kmi and I presume some type of records from the current/2nd owner. I'd be checking it out myself it were closer...2500 miles is a long way to go when you don't really need another car. (Well, I need an E500, but that's a different story... I also need a winning lottery ticket so I can get one!)

Sorry if I confused y'all.
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  #30  
Old 08-22-2002, 12:22 AM
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gsxr, I had heard of that "cheap mercedes" quote also, and someimes it's right on the money. I hope I didn't sound harse. Sometimes emails and forums can seem cold because you are missing the facial expressions that go with the text, you know what I mean!?

Peter4: Also ask CJ if his car is for sale. I believe his is a 300d and he takes such good care of his car, you could literally eat off the engine! We had scramble'd eggs and toast off of it the other day! OK, just kidding, but I don't know of a more well taken care vehicle on the planet, really. And he's a totally honest guy to boot. When he sold his miata, a small bearing went bad on it 2 weeks later and he told me he felt guilty!

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