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  #1  
Old 08-26-2002, 11:35 AM
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Oil already looking dirty?

I changed my oil on friday, it's already pretty black. This normal for a diesel? I went ahead and used the valvoline 10W40, the service guy at Crown in dublin said it's a better oil than what they use.

Tho on a performance note, the engine seems to start easier, run smoother, and idle rough a lot less.

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  #2  
Old 08-26-2002, 11:57 AM
The Bob
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It sound pretty normal

Diesel oil is black by the time I check my dipstick when I am filling it with oil.

Now for the best oil for your car will start a heated debate although no one will dispute that you should be using a diesel grade oil in your 190d.

On the oil label are letters which speak of their ratingl. Loiok for one that at least has a CF rating or higher (CH would be higher)

THose oils are designed to suspend the soot (aka black stuff) that you are talking about.

There are alot of threads which go over this topic in great detail. I am not sure how cold it gets in dublin but here in chicago I use synthetic to aid in cold weather starts.

Just do a search on it and you will have alot more info


have fun

bob c
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2002, 12:03 PM
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oh no

Let's not start this again.
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2002, 12:05 PM
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first, I agree, lets not start an oil thread here -- its been done at least once before

On another note, with the 2.2l 4, do not forget that the initial fillup is over 7 liters with each subsequent oil change being 6.3 quarts. Thus, there is a quantity of oil that remains in the system even after a full oil and filter change.
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  #5  
Old 08-26-2002, 01:40 PM
LarryBible
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Maybe even TWICE before.
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  #6  
Old 08-26-2002, 04:05 PM
TANK
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This black oil thing is "extremely" normal, happens to em all.. Sorry for the over exaggeration. I have heard a lot of diesel owners worry about this.
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  #7  
Old 08-26-2002, 06:34 PM
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Thanks guys. Sorry about 'another' oil thread. I was just a little worried. I also thought about how much oil is left in the engine due to the large ammount. I took nearly double what my brother's ranger does. He over fills a little because it burns it, and needs to dump a quart in every 4 weeks or so.

I guess I will change the oil sooner (maybe at 2000 miles) and put a synth blend in it. And I will be sure to get a C_ rated oil. Since oil is so easy to do I don't mind having to change it a bit sooner. I will also run the car for a fairly long time right before I change it so it's nice and hot and let it drain a lot longer than I did. It was at a slow trickle when I put the bolt back on.

Thanks for the help guys.

Also I didn't look into synth blend or full synth when I was at the store, how much more is it? I paid 1.75 a quart for the valvoline 10W40. A case is 0 savings.
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  #8  
Old 08-26-2002, 07:51 PM
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Expect to pay $4.50 or more, all about the same. You can leave it in there for 6000 miles, at least, without worry, so it isn't all that much more expensive if you normally change at 3000 miles.

Use a good (Bosch or Beru, other German) filter, not a Fram or some such.

MBs take a LOT of oil by american standards -- my 280 SE 4.5 (and all other 116/117) engines takes 9 quarts with filter change, the TE takes six, and the 300D takes 8.

Peter
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  #9  
Old 08-26-2002, 10:13 PM
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Nate, I said it once and will say it again- TWO s(d)ealer mechs recommended against synth oil in older MBs. I'd listen. also, I overfilled mine-that's where the second oil leak (beneath EFI pump) started from. The book says 6.9 qts for our 2.2l and that's what I'd do! Did you get your tires yet??
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  #10  
Old 08-27-2002, 01:03 AM
123c
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I can remember the first time I changed the oil in my 300CD. I bought a cheap Fram filter, but I did remember to use diesel rated oil. I can remember how I freaked out that the oil was black after I changed it. I later learned how it was supposed to be that way. I also remember how I spilled out alot of oil, because I had poor planning on where I put the oil drain pan.
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  #11  
Old 08-27-2002, 03:49 PM
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I used the STP filter. Is it any different than a Mann or Bosch?

Piotr, my owner's manual said 6.3 quarts. I only had to put in 6 and it's very close to the top of the dip stick mark. I bought 8 for some stupid reason. Can you take back what you don't use? Those few extra bucks back in my pocket would buy me lunch!

No I didn't get new tires yet, I haven't gotten around to looking at the tire stores near me. They are still OK, there's enough tread that she does fine in rain, even at highway speeds. It's just I will need new ones for winter!

Is a synth blend not good for these old birds either?
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2002, 04:17 PM
MB_SOOT
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Synthetic and synthetic blend oils, as long as they are the proper spec, aren't bad for your engine. They are far worse for your wallet than they are for your engine.

I believe a lot of these opinions are formed from mechanics and owners who may have experienced increased oil leakage with synthetics. As most everyone knows, synthetics flow better at a given temperature than conventional oils. This is one reason why a lot of people living in cold climates use synthetic oils, especially in winter. It makes their cars easier to start and their cars seem to run better, particularly during warm-up. This ability to flow better may also mean that it can get around seals in your engine. So, if you have a minor leak with conventional oil and you put in synthetic oil you might find your leak to be a little bit worse. The next issue is that old Mercedes diesels are known to leak. Personally, I don't believe that Mercedes diesels should be considered leak-prone by themselves. It's probably more related to the fact that Mercedes diesels tend to last longer than many other engines. Seals do age and wear out. If you could check a decent sized sample of 20-year-old gas cars that had 300k-400k miles on them (assuming you could find them) I bet the frequency of oil leakage would be similar to our old diesels.

The point I suppose I'm trying to make is that, as long as you don't have a leaky engine and you don't mind the additional cost, you can certainly use synthetic or synthetic-blend oils. I wouldn't try to extend the drain intervals though, especially with the stock oil filtration system.
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2002, 06:03 PM
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Well I returned my extra 2 quarts and looked at the other oils they had there to scope out what I will get next time. I found a 10W40 synthetic blend SL(maybe it was SJ?)/CF rated oil. When I changed my oil I did notice oil in my belly pan and ONE drip hanging from the oil pan. When MB did my oil change last time they filled it so the oil was right in the middle of the dip stick. When I changed it (I checked the level before I changed it) and it was right about where they filled it to. So I obviously do have an oil leak because of the oil in the belly pan, but can't be too bad if I don't notice it on the dip stick right?

Now with that said, will synth or synth blend make this little oil leak worse? If yes, then what kind of dino oil will I have to use to get the CF or whatever rated oil.

Oh yeah, before I took her in for all that work to MB she would drip oil in the driveway, now I don't have any drips anymore. Would this be due to MB putting in lost belly pan bolts?

And my question asked before again... is the STP filter any different from a Mann or Bosch?
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2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K
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Last edited by 190D22; 08-27-2002 at 06:10 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2002, 07:50 PM
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The lack of oil drips after MB serive is probably more related to the use of a new copper seal on the oil pan than anything else.

This engine tends to leak oil around the front cover over the timing chain. If you don't use oil between changes, leave it alone, it takes several tries to get it better than it is.

Other MB engines have characteristic leaks al the oil pan "gasket" -- don't ask why, don't know, but they are usually only a nuicsance, causing occasional drips on the ground.

I wouldn't use an STP filter -- get Bosch or Hengst (preferably Hengst, as they are still make in Germany, not India like the new Bosch filters). Get them from FastLane or an independent shop, not the local autoparts stores. You can suit yourself, there probably isn't anything wrong with the filter, but aftermarket filters are famous for only fitting the hole, not being the same quality as OEM. If is possible that it is identical to the Bosch, though, given "globalization".

The Bosch and Hengst, etc OEM type filters will come with a new gasket for the oil filter housing, a new copper seal for the pan plug, and a new seal for the center bolt of the filter housing. You may not need the latter -- I do, my brother doesn't on the SDL, due to the difference in clearance around the filter housing.

Peter
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1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2002, 10:11 PM
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Synthetic oil makes an old engine leak oil? I found the opposite to be true. When I started using Castrol Syntec, all the oil leaks that my 300SD engine had, stopped.

P E H

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