Rotor Installation ??
 

Searched the archives but just spotty dissussions here and there.

Going to replace my front rotors ('86 300SDL) and I was looking for a step by step Tech Article on the the how-to's. None to be had.

Got a Brake kit which includs ATE rotors, Sensors, and Paiget (sp.?) pads for $118. Hopefully this stuff is OEM ?? Seems too cheap!! Saw horror stories on non-oem stuff.

Any "Igottcha's) and PIA stuff I should be aware of ?? This board has given me tons of help in the past. You guys are just too cool and patient.

thax

Quick notes:

You will need to remove the caliper and hub, along with wheel bearings.

The PITA things are getting the rotor off the hub -- you will have to hold the old rotor tightly enough to get the bolts out -- it bolts onto the back of the hub -- and the new ones in. An air impact wrench is the best tool by far for this job.

Don't hang the caliper by the brake hose while working on the rotor and hub, it can crack the hose. Bad news, a blow brake hose.

Clean the caliper and make sure there is no rust on the sides of the pad slots, it can make the pads stick or lock into position.

MB recommends new bolts for rotor and caliper.

Make sure the wheel bearings dont' get dirt in them, and you will need to clean are repack them and set bearing clearance properly -- 0.001" play is correct.

Inspect calipers for condition of rubber dust seal -- if damaged or if pistons "grate" while you push them back, rebuild caliper.

Use a torque wrench to tighten lug bolts -- a cheapy spring type is fine.

Peter

The ATE rotors and Pagid pad are the OEM stuff, don't worry! From my experience, it seems that the Pagid pads produce a lot of dust.

Wow, $118 what a deal I paid $170 just for my front rotors at Advance auto and they are cheaper than NAPA

when I changed my front rotors I pulled a real trick.
Being I dont have a vise or impact tools I took 2 screw drivers placed them the side vents of the old rotor and lined them up in the holes of 2 cinder blocks took a 12" T handle allen wrench and placed 2 kitchen table legs "or any other pipe" on the t's and used them to twist while standing on the blocks to keep them steady.
When you see the allen wrench starting to look like a candy cane the bolt is getting ready to break free... these bolts have that nice pretty blue loc-tight on them to keep them in PERMANATLY in place :D

Unless your pretty strong you might need another person to help I had dad help on this one arthritic arms dont help when doing this job lol

To install the bolts I just did the opposite


And that is called improvising :cool:


Jeff

I thought the price was a litle cheap. Got the kit with free shipping at

http://www.***************/

Same guys offering the deal on E-BAY at one time. No longer though, but they gave me the same deal. Don't really know who they are but if it's real OEM stuff, the price was right. They carry Zimmerman rotors also.

Screwdriver improvisation sounds good to me. What's the torque on the bolts. 80ft/lbs ?? Can I re-use the bolts and just put Blue loc-tite on them ??

On the bearings- can I tighten slightly and back off 1/4 turn or is that too much. Maybe back off 1 or 2 flats ?? If not, where do I measure the .001" ??

Dust...I've never, ever had dust or squeaks before. Probably the reason the rotors got fried and warped.

I think the MBs use soft OEM pads that make LOTS of dust to cut down on wearing the rotors. I can tell you the ATE pads make plenty of dust.

Ken300D