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Old 08-26-2002, 06:11 PM
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Question 1983 300sd trunk leak

i have a 1983 300sd. the trunk gets wet when it rains, especially in the deeper parts on the left and the right. it gets wet in the middle too, but not as much. there aren't puddles or anything, but it gets pretty damp. i can't tell where the water is coming from- it seems to be coming from everywhere since the wetness doesn't concentrate in any one place really. do i just need new trunk seal?? what else could it be?? thanks to all replies.


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Old 08-26-2002, 08:25 PM
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well, i laid in the trunk like you said and sure enough- there is a line of rust forming all along the metal piece on the underside where the rear window meets the chassis- right along the metal piece that has 13 1"-2" holes all along it. i hope this is where you are talking about- it looks like its right where the window would meet the chassis. so, then my trunk seal is probably fine then? replacing the rear window seal should fix this leak? thanks for the help so far.

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Old 08-26-2002, 10:50 PM
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well, i'm bringing my car to a benz shop to get the water pump replaced (it's leaking coolant) and to have the air cleaner bracket and a new driver's side door pull replaced. i have all the parts for these things, but it's just too much trouble and work to do it all myself. i'll have them look at the rust i'm talking about and tell them that i'm having a problem with water getting into the trunk. hopefully they would be able to tell me what i would need to get to fix the problem. i can get a new rear window seal for $28 on ebay (not aftermarket). looking all around the rear window- it looks like the seal is bad. in some places the rubber is hard and will crack off and in a few spots it isn't flush with the body of the car- it's kind of pulled up. thanks for all your help about this. hopefully it won't rain for a while until i get this fixed.

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Old 08-27-2002, 01:49 AM
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 134
The least expensive and fastest way to fix a leaking window seal without having to remove the window and buy a new seal is to apply silicone paste all along the seal (outside, put the silicone tube nozzle underneath the seal so that the silicone gets between the pane and the old rubber). Naturally this isn't one of the nicest solutions but helps until you decide whether it is worth to you to replace it with a new seal.
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Old 08-27-2002, 09:30 AM
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! Solved !

Well Red If you were in the neighborhood I'd have you fixed in a jiffy!
Here's how you can do an excellent job if you have confidence in the FORCE being with you. You will need: a fresh tube (~5oz.) of clear RTV silicone or silicone w/extension tip, clean small all cotton terrycloth, a few paper towels, one razor blade, windex, watter hose able to spray pressure stream, a few wooden wedges(small, the type used for shiming furring strips).
Simply clean your work area first by spraying at close angle(little off paralell) to the sealing lip so that the pressure keeps the lip open and watter is cleaning dirt and debirse out from the rubber and the glass. Do this all arround the glass, especially the sides and bottom. With the cloth fold one bit dry inside (where you were spraying) dry repeatedly with that technique. Insert afew shims to allow air to the bottom and one on each side. while that is open find a clean part of the cloth dampen with windex clean under the lip to body very well, you are ready to do magic. set the tube just under the lip with only the very end nipped. painstakenly you will squeze matreial out continuosly untill you have made a beade all the way arround(no problem stopping and reinserting at trunk hinges). As the lip falls it may have squeezed out a bit of silicone. Use one wedge or similar sharp object to remove excess. Check lip in place with paper towel on finger and wipe clean lightly on rubber. For body, fold paper towel twice making a clean edged pad, place it close to the lip and wipe the body clean. That was worth 75% of the leak.
Now if the day was is sunny and dry take out the wedges and clean once more between the rubber lip and glass with the cloth dry and clean or new paper towel. Now with the space wiped well(windex optional here) seal in same way. Clean up here is different. If any excess is pushed out let dry than run blade up to the glass along rubber easily to separate dried excess from rubber and again but near perpendicular to rubber like a plow to separate from glass.
Prior to job notice if your rubber is particulurly dry it is open(not touching the glass) at least on the two sides L&R vertical. If this is all, your rubber is still good. after cleaning press in on the nearest flange of the aluminum insert by carefully running a clean plastic block or the like along the edge, sometimes with considerable force to strain the flange adding some support to close the rubber a bit.
Jobs I have done like this haven't leaked yet, 14 years agao are still tight.

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