|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
My first oil change
Hello Everyone,
I am getting ready for my first oil change on my newly aquired 1984 300d and I have a couple of questions. From what I read it is better to use the Mann filters then buy the STP filters that my local Autozone retailer stocks, any thoughts? When I order the oil filters online is there any gaskets that I also need to order? If anyone can give me suggestions as what to look out for while changing my oil, such as tips it would be greatly appreciated. I plan on using Chevron Delo 400 10w-40. Thanks
__________________
1984 300d 1983 300sd |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
The MANN filters are good quality stuff. Can't go wrong with those. They include the necessary rubber oil filter cover gasket as well as a washer for the oil pan bolt. There is an additional washer included, but you won't need it.
Check the rubber O-rings on the oil filter cover center shaft, make sure they aren't cracked. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Just completed my first oil change. Bought a Mann at Olympic Auto Parts. They carried Bosch and Mann. Rubber O-ring in the box. Also went to my local boat store and bought a "topsider" to extract the oil through the dipstick. Used Rotella Synthetic (not a new argument on dino vs syn, just what I did) that I bought at WalMart on sale. The old 300D cranks faster and seems to run better. Good luck on yours.
bob 300D 157K |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
oil change
Dieselgent,
here is the link you should look at http://mbdieseldiy.tripod.com/oil.htm welcome and good luck!
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Hi DieselGent
Is that Chevron synthetic?
Want to keep your car? Those skick seals are probably like Bake-O-Lite Just replace em. also have a valve cover gasket ready. If your handy remove the rocker assy. towers n all to access head bolts. Retorque each one, they'll be loose (back off one at a time and bring to spec. I think its 60 mn. or till rotation stopps, with a little manly effort it'll probably be about 80deg. tighter than what it was. also won't hurt to check the screws in the chain case. Put back the rockers. Go for a valve adj. check cam. timming while she's open too. Keep'er with good injectors fireing at 25deg. BTDC if you live north of lets say North Carolina. I have all my cars in Mobil 1 products: engine, trans., and diff. I was useing their syn. trans. and diff. stuff about 10 years before it was easily accessable like in Pep Boys. And their engine stuff since it's inception. Somtimes I pick up some of their Delvac. But I have cars 275kmi. and the like w/ original chains, camshafts, valve guides and valves and transmissions. Because I keep the valves loose, Tightened the heads once, replaced the valve seals more than once drive very easy for the most part, rece good hard and long when fit, and keept synthetics since new! Long live V8'S and turbo diesels which came with 722 tranys! |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
DieselGent,
84300DT's "12 step program" is good. Here's another that I find useful, esp. if you attempt the topsider method, of which I am an advocate, http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley/autofaqs/getoil.htm. The main link page has other useful information as well: http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley/autofaqs/main.htm. Good luck!
__________________
Chris '04 ML500 - 53k, Inspiration Edition, Desert Silver '11 Audi A4 Avant - Brilliant Black '87 300SDL sold '99 C280 Sport sold '85 190E 2.3 sold |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|