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Old 08-28-2002, 10:48 AM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,697
w123 steering damper replacement


After reading Nic's post about redoing suspension parts, I am considering doing the steering damper. I am a pretty tall, big guy, so messing around under the car is kind of tough for me, my arms tend to be too long, etc., but anyway, I like to do as much stuff as I can. Things like all the tie rods I think are best left to someone who has a lift, its kind of hard for me with my jackstands. Overall the suspension in my car seems pretty good, but the steering is a bit lacking. I figure if I change the steering damper, and lube everything up, it may help somewhat.

Could someone outline the procedure to replace the steering damper on a 123, including torque values if possible? Also, are there any other parts that would be reccomended to be replaced because either they have to come off when the steering damper comes off, or because they will cause the new damper to go bad really quick?

Also, could someone give me an outline of what all I should lube on my 300D? I have never tried it on this car, but I assume there are just a bunch of zerk fittings. Does anyone know how many there are? Would it be possible to get a list of how many and their approximate locations? I would like to do a full front and rear (if it is possible on these cars) lube job.
Thanks in advance for the help,

1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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Old 08-28-2002, 11:18 AM
ck42's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Holly Springs, GA
Posts: 866

I replaced the dampner on my car recently. I'm pretty tall also and didn't have any problems getting under and having access to the 2 bolts that hold the thing in place.

Crawl under there and look at it. It's a 5-10 minute job at most....barring any siezed bolts, etc. piece of cake. Just wish replacing other items were as easy!

I couldn't find any torque values listed for it...then again, once you see it, you'll see that it's prolly a 1 'Ugh' type bolt
1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.)
2010 Honda Fit Sport
2013 Honda Accord Sport
1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired)
1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired)
1976 Porsche 914 (Sold)
1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP)
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Old 08-29-2002, 12:54 PM
surfblau's Avatar
neue Dieseler
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: san francisco - immer kalt, immer windig, I want to move
Posts: 382
some ideas

Also, could someone give me an outline of what all I should lube on my 300D?

- the engine
- the wheel bearings after a repack
- the differential
- the throttle linkage ball joints
there is no need to lube any of the suspension components from anything I have read or heard (which is getting to be a lot at this point)

As far as increasing access, a real easy way to get an extra 1.5 inches is to drive the front wheels onto a pair of 2X6 planks. That extra space can help and there is no potential for falling off. For simple jobs, this is what I usually do.

It is a whole other question whether this will really help your situation with the steering or not. Replacing the damper is not known for dramatically improving steering- especially if there are any tie rods or center rod that have ripped boots and associated play. Likewise, upper/lower ball joints, idler arm and steering box adjustment are more likely to yield results. (this is based on replacement of 3 dampers in 3 123/126s).

Best of luck.
84 300TD - 235k - Farbe "Surfblau" bought at 213k
87 300SDL - 131k - Farbe "PimpGold" bought at 115k
00 Klepper Faltboot Expedition Double
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