|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
My first big DIY repair; axle boots.
Thanks to all the help and insight you people post here. A couple of weeks ago when rotating the tiresI found a torn axle boot. It must have been recent as the displaced grease was clean and the shaft was not making any noise.
Between the Haynes manual and the posts here, especially the one from MORPHOUS, the removal and reinstall of the axles was a piece of cake. It was satisfying and I learned more about the auto than just the axles. I had both of them 're booted' as the other axle's boots were looking bad and figured while I'm in here.... Removal took about three hours as the first time you do something you're figureing out which wrench, sockets and adapters to use. Reinstall took about two hours. The differential drained about 1.5 quarts, refill was 2 quarts. The rear end seems quieter and smoother. The cost to get all four boots replaced was $215.00. Thanks all, thebern
__________________
1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed) 1984 300CD 172,483 1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05 Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I installed rebuilt 1/2 shafts yesterday in the 300TD. Have to agree - it is a good, straight forward type of job.
__________________
Jim |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Congratulations to both you guys. I always heard that was one of the harder DIYer jobs..... Cheers
__________________
1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Where did you buy the boots from? Do you need special tools to install it? Thanks...
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
That's something I should do. My boots aren't leaking, but they're all cracked, and I don't even want to poke them for fear they'll tear.
__________________
83 240D four bagger stick diesel 276K |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Yes,
R&R boots on MB's requires specialty tools. List is about $1500 plus you need a hydraulic press. Michael
__________________
Michael McGuire 83 300d 01 vw A4 TDI 66 Chevy Corsa 68 GMC V6 w/oD 86 300E |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Before your axle boots start leaking lubricant, you can delay this replacement for quite sometime by spreading Hi-Temp Black RTV sealtant around the cracks thickly. I did this to my left side boot about 40,000 miles ago and it is still holding. Had to add more recently. Jack one side of the the car up and clean all the dirt off with 409 or equiv. Spinning the wheel helps get all the areas. Be careful not to press too hard and make the crack worse. After its dry put the RTV all along the cracks. I think my "layer" was close to 1/16" thick and the cracks were fully covered. You'll need to let it dry overnight. If the lubricant has already started leaking, its too late, your need to replace the boot and lubricant (or buy a replacement axle unit). After its dry, the RTV is somewhat still flexible which makes this solution work.
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Even when these cars were almost new, there would be a series of cracks at the "stretched" portions of the axle boots. This is normal. These boots will go forever with such cracking. When they split, then its time to pay attention to them.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Have a great day, |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Agreed, don't let visible cracks that are not leaking make you change the boots. My 30 year old car has had crackly boots for as long as i can remember and they are still holding up fine.
__________________
1972 450SL 1982 300D Turbo |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|