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  #16  
Old 09-19-2002, 01:20 PM
LarryBible
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Yes, the TDI is a neat driving car, at least in a straight line. I considered buying one when I bought the C Class.

Don't overlook, however, the fact that it has a timing BELT (on a diesel, UGH!) and I suggest you look over the timing belt end of that engine thoroughly. There is ZERO room to work when changing it. Just thinking about it makes my knuckles look like they've been through a meat grinder.

Considering the apparent economy compared to a new C Class, I was talking myself into it until I took a cloverleaf exit ramp real fast to see how it handled. It was FREAKY handling. When it started swaying, it felt like the wheels were about 18 inches apart. I'm not a fan of front wheel drive to begin with, that capped it off for me. I took it back to the dealer offering the test drive, drove to the MB dealer, and cut a deal.

Best of luck with your decision,
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  #17  
Old 09-19-2002, 11:13 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Those belt driven cam belts can last almost forever -- my next door neighbor had a head gasket fail on his Volvo 240 -- mechanic refused to work on it unless he could replace the belt, had at least 200,000 miles on it, was cracked clean through. That is a freewheeling engine, though.

VW has had a belt driven cam diesel for a long time -- the old Rabbit diesel (like my Volvo TD) has both belt driven cam and belt driven IP! Terrible to set the timing on, but otherwise very nice a quite. Pure hell to change, too.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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  #18  
Old 09-20-2002, 08:50 AM
LarryBible
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I am going on the assumption that this is an interference engine. I cannot imagine in my wildest dreams that any diesel could not be interference since the combustion chamber must be so small.

If it is, I think it is foolish not to change the timing belt near the recommended intervals. The consequences of breakage is just to severe. It's just not worth the gamble.

I always thought it to be ironic to see the non interference belted engines such as the old Ford 4 cylinder had the easiest to change belts. It's the ones with dire consequences upon failure that are always the most difficult to change.

My $0.02,
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2002, 09:18 AM
Registered Diesel Burner
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 2,911
Status Report

After finishing the removal of all the glow plugs, I ran my nice new glow plug reamer down through all the glow plug holes. Once threaded it was easy - but there was a certain amount of twisting and reaming that had to be done just to get the reamer started into the hole.

If the area around the glow plugs is caked up with carbon, does that mean my whole pre-chamber is filled up with carbon deposits?

Anyway, after reaming I could see carbon flakes down in there, so I turned over the engine to blow it out - nice black particulate cloud!

New glow plugs were all tested (dangerously I might add) and glowed a nice bright red after only two or three seconds. Let them cool and then coated the threads with anti-seize, threaded them in and torqued them into place. As stuck as the old ones were to get out because of the carbon, after reaming the new glow plugs were easy to just run in by hand.

Hooked up the wires to the glow plugs and started up. There was some trash that seemed to momentarily keep one intake valve from closing properly, but that blew away quickly. It seemed like a nice smooth startup. I still got some smoke on startup though. Guess I don't care if it starts smoother than it did...

Now to finish cleaning and bolting everything back up.

Ken300D
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  #20  
Old 09-20-2002, 12:08 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Northern Calif. (Fairfield Area)
Posts: 2,225
C-5 crewchief,

That's an awsome plane. They fly over all day, since I live next to Travis AFB. What was really awesome during the air show last year was when a stealth bomber flew low over my house. Could hardly hear it. At any rate Peter and P.E.H. are both giving you good advice. If I were you i'd rent a car and dump some money into the 87. You would have a fine car for years with no payments and very little depreciation which is the biggest expense of a new car. Also you might want to poke around the internet and check on owner satisfaction with the new VW products. I've seen some threads that don't paint a pretty picture. Go into some shops that specialize in newer VWs and ask some questions. I'm sure they would be helpful.

Peter
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  #21  
Old 09-21-2002, 01:10 AM
C-5crewchief
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Thanks for the input guys.Yeah the C-5(Galaxy) is pretty awesome.Been on 'em 15 years now.They don't get smaller!
I think my best choice right now is to fix the things that REALLY need attention and cross the other bridges when I get there.
Every time I drive this car I love it more.I keep saying..
"I can't sell THIS car"! It really was a find of (my) lifetime.I spoke to the original owner after I bought it.He babied it for all it's 13 years and 111,000 miles.He BEGGED me to take care of her.I have had it nearly 2 years.I suppose it would be a shame to give it up with so much life left in her.Not even to 140k yet!No new car
(that I can afford anyway ) will have nearly the quality,craftsmanship,power and economy combined that my 300D does.I know whatever mount spent to maintain it is not wasted but invested in this fine German specimen.I have felt this way since the day I drove it home.I am glad there is a group of people who probably feel this same way and I've found most of them here on this forum. I'll keep you posted as to my progress.Thanks.............Joe
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  #22  
Old 09-24-2002, 09:42 AM
Registered Diesel Burner
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 2,911
And Now for the Results

Got the intake manifold back in place and torqued down (18-ft/lbs on the hex bolts) and the accelerator linkage back in place.

The car clearly starts better now - obviously hits immediately on all six cylinders.

There is still a period of warm up though during which the car does not idle as smoothly as when hot. My 1982 300D with the all iron engine doesn't do this for some reason. Anyway, it starts well now.

I still get the smoke at startup. To me, it has the smell of unburned diesel but is also bluish like a little motor oil is in there. Probably at 345K miles a set of valve stem seals is probably in order. Access looks a lot easier than for the glow plugs.

Ken300D
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  #23  
Old 09-24-2002, 11:12 AM
C-5crewchief
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KEN300D,
I assume that your intake manifold was pretty "coked" with exhaust soot.I agree,dumb design. I'm sure you're not the first to encounter this, but what do you recommend to remove it. IE:
Soaking it in solvent,an industrial degreaser(oven cleaner),hot water/soap and a scrub-brush?I was going to try several cans of carb/intake cleaner spray after I scraped the large matter out.The B-12 chemtool works great.
Should I remove the vacuum switch in the middle of the intake?
Any other maintenance you recommend while the manifold is off?
And lastly...how 'bout that darn tensioner pulley? It sound lake a hampster wheel in the morning.I've been reviewing my Haynes book.Looks like a real pain in the... !
Special tools to get the fan off,levers and pry bars and what-not.
Let alone re-routing the new belt back on. I dread the thought of doing this in the middle of winter so I guess I better get at it! Thanks Again!!!
Joe...
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  #24  
Old 09-24-2002, 03:04 PM
Registered Diesel Burner
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 2,911
My solution was fairly amateur but worked reasonably well. First I used a "gasket scraper" (looks like a long screwdriver with a scraping blade at the end) to take out the thick deposits. Since the scraper is flat and the tubes are round, I used it scraping side-to-side a lot. Then I used a lot of carb cleaner. Then I soaked it pretty well in Gunk engine cleaner. You flush Gunk with water, so I used a lot of pressure and also ran the garden hose down all the pipes and through the center duct.

Not as effective as sending it off to be soaked in a chemical tank, but good enough considering I wasn't able to clean much of the intake airways in the head. So the intake manifold is not shiny clean, but there's not much in the way of deposits - and its a lot cleaner than the head.

I left whatever that switch in the center of the manifold (pressure?) in place. Made sure the pressure tap next to it was clean of course.

When you have the manifold off it is a good time to apply some lubrication to the injection pump accelerator linkage. For the most part you don't want to pop the linkage sockets off the balls, because the sockets are plastic and will break. I used lubricant in a squirt can.

I haven't even done the serpentine belt replacement yet (got one on hand) so I can't help you much. I do think the belt tensioner is a common wear item.

Also, I should mention that the car used to start up with a pretty solid miss in probably two cylinders. You'd have to rev the engine up to get them to catch and smoke would pour out. With the new glow plugs all the cylinders catch right at startup. That's got to be a little easier on a cold engine.......

Ken300D
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