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#16
11-28-2002, 05:31 PM
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Kerry mentioned a magical tool... the hand impact driver... motorcycle mechanics could not live without one...
This is not the same thing as an air impact driver... The magical part of it is that it puts force forward into the nut/bolt/hex at the same time it puts turning force on it... a regular air or electric impact only puts force in the turning direction... This means it can even bring out stuck Phillips head screws... that are partly messed up... This is one of the greatest " larger hammer"" "next level" tools anyone can have in their toolbox....and they are relatively cheap... One caution though... be sure you know how to set it so that it turns the proper direction when you hit it... otherwise you can really tighten up that bolt.... 
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#17
12-17-2003, 11:55 AM
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found the M8 12 point tool finally!
after searching everywhere (shy of Mercedes) I finally found the M8 12 point tool for the strut removal bolts. These are also called "triple square bolt inserts"
It's made by Powerbuilt product number 648599 it comes as a set of four inserts including M6, M8, M10, M12 sizes the cost is about $15 www.powerbuilttools.com
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#18
12-17-2003, 12:24 PM
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Those should be found at PepBoys, right? Where did you get yours?
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#20
12-18-2003, 09:31 AM
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CAUTION: Be wary of cheap tools made out of hardened butter especially on the type of operation you are about to undertake. Also use a micro torch to melt the locktite on the threads first.
Good luck, Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.
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#21
12-18-2003, 04:12 PM
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Looks like my 85 TD, only mine is midnight blue. 273,000 miles and runs like a champ.
Someone suggested using a pair of forceps to hold and insert the clip. Never tried it; he must be a surgeon. Question: does the plastic cover with the speaskers pull off to the rear of the ar, toward the front, or just pull down?
__________________
Stage Wizards Lighting and sound designer 1981 SD 328,000 1985 300TD, 266,000 1984 300 TD, 267,000
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#23
12-18-2003, 09:38 PM
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worked, I now have new struts in place
well, the M8 12 pt insert worked great on my stripped and tight bolts. I hammered it in there with a few medium effort taps using a hammer.
Then I used my 13mm socket wrench on the insert with a large arm rachet, and wolla! the rest was a breeze, although I found that it was easier to put the rear pins in from the inside outward, rather than the other way around as I found them. In regards to the speaker cover, to remove, you'll first find 4 small screws in the back and 2 in the front corners, remove these first. Then gently slide out the edges from beneath the side window rubber. Lastly, detach the light by pulling it down out of the cover, and unhooking the wiring. to remove the cover, gently push it back toward the rear of the car, it has two little hooks it sits on which have openings facing the rear. -mserpe
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#24
10-04-2013, 05:42 PM
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Question on what to expect for proper strut operation...
My struts push up the rear hatch just fine, and hold it up. But if I let it go on its way up it really slams up. There isn't any damping of the upward movement. Do new struts provide the "up lift" as well as the upward damping? It seems to me that the internal springs provide the uplift and the hydraulic flow provides the damping. I just want to be sure my struts actually need to be replaced for spending the money and time. Any help out there?
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#25
10-05-2013, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW
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#26
10-05-2013, 10:07 PM
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New struts act this way. I am unaware of a strut that raises the door slowly ...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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