I need a new injector pump *sob* please help.
 

Hello guys,
It's nice to finally find a board for MD diesels. I (my wife) owns a 1987 300TD. I recently took the injector pump in for an overhaul since I already had the engine taken apart as a result of a vacuum pump failure. The technician called me and said the pump needed a new control rod ($600.00) and new flyweights ($258.00) plus the rest of the parts needed for a typical overhaul. This totalled $2,211.31!! I feel this is excessive as I did all of the labor removing the pump and will be installing it as well. Does anyone know of a good source for remanufactured injector pumps? The other John.

If you find a pump still on an engine in a wrecking yard.. which was moving when the accident happened.... it is likely still ok....and most yards that I know of offer a 60 or 90 day warranty anyway.... much cheaper....

I HAVE A SUPPLIER IN CHARLOTTE. NC THAT WILL REBUILD THEM FOR $ 473.00. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED I CAN GET IN CONTAC WITH THEM.

MBJOE

I FOUND THE WEB SITE FOR THE COMPANY THAT REBUILDS THEM:

http://www.fuelinjectionpumps.com/

MBJOE

A factory reman for these pumps is vastly cheaper than having one serviced. You will NOT get it done for $475, period. Once they are apart, they usually cost $2500 to get rebuilt. Mind you, you are paying list for the parts, but these particular pumps are very expensive to fix.

Get a rebuilt one. $1500 is about right, may be as low as $1200 exchange. The cost is all in the electronically contolled rack, so you can't same much anyway.

Peter

That sure is a nice resource to have mbjoe. I am curious, how did the injection pump go bad The other John? Was it a result of your vacuum pump failure? Also, I just had mine replaced as insurance. Upon comparing the old pump to the new, I found the new ones have "sealed" bearings. That way when the pump does go bad those bb's don't fly apart into your engine! PSFRED is almost always correct in his assesments on tech questions. But if they say they will rebuild them for this price, are they talking about this specific one on the mb?

I replaced my injection pump with a rebuilt unit from MB for about $1,500. Am very happy with the results. Independent shop owners informed me that aftermarket rebuilds could be unreliable.

Thanks for the replies. The shop I took the pump to called me back and said they found a remanufactured pump for $975.00. This includes the cost of evaluating my pump ($125.00) and injectors ($54.00) which I would have had to EAT if I didn't go through with the rebuild. I guess it worked out OK afterall. I don't understand why my pump needed a new control rod and flyweights. The engine ran fine. I just drove it to Las Vegas and back (from Indiana) in August. I hate being at the mercy of a mechanic. It seems that they set the price according to how they feel that day. That's why I do all of my own labor. I originally took the pump in because it had some minor leaks from various seals. I wanted it evaluated and an estimate of the cost to overhaul it. What a shock! The pump was not damaged by the vacuum pump failure. When I took the vacuum pump off, broken (vacuum pump) pieces fell out onto the ground. I could not find all of the broken pieces so I figured they were still inside the engine. I pulled the front cover and oil pan to retrieve the broken pieces. Since I had it that far apart, I went ahead and pulled the head to check the valves and pistons. I had planned to have the injector pump and injectors rebuilt anyway so it seemed like a good opportunity to take them in. That's my story. The other John.

How many miles were on your car? It's just that I havent heard of a lot of these going bad..

Peter, I believe the "electronically controlled rack" is not quite accurate. From my understanding of the OM60x pumps, the L7 control rod connection on top (the only internal electrical connection, I don't count the ELR on the rear) is just a SENSOR. It tells the computer where the rack is for load purposes, so the computer can decide if it should open or close the EGR and ARV (on turbos). I am 99% sure that the car will run just fine if this sensor is disconnected. The EGR and ARV kill MPG and HP and should be disconnected anyway. Anyway, the big problem (IMO) with the OM60x pumps is when they leak oil from the external seals & gaskets... it's a real pain to replace them unless you pull the pump. Like TOJ, while my head was off I had the pump checked & resealed. Now my other car needs it too...:( :(


Regards,

Tank,
The car has about 150,000 miles on it. John.

gsxr:

The 60x engines have electronic idle control, and the servo at the back end of the pump controls fuel delivery. The front connection is for the position sensor. Very finicky, and VERY expensive. Not one of Bosch's better designs, I don't think. The computer controls idle, and I think matches fuel delivery to air flow (there is an air flow sensor in the bottom of the air filter box). It also controls the EGR and ARV (both not working on my car :)).

Peter

I've been meaning to fiddle with that stuff one day. I'm pretty sure that disconnecting either the airflow sensor (under the filter), and/or the control rod sensor connector (L7), will have no effect on normal engine operation. But I'm not positive.

I do know that the electronic idle control (ELR) is not needed, but it will result in the idle speed being too low and therefor possible engine shaking at idle (esp. in gear, and/or with the AC on.) The widget on the rear/top of the pump with the 2-pin connector is basically just a solenoid. The computer applies varying voltage to change idle speed. That way, when the AC turns on, the idle speed is maintained, ditto when the tranny is put in gear. My first '87 had this broken for over a year when I bought it - I had no idea. It's fixed now (broken wire), but had I not been reading the OM603 engine manual and fiddled with the black trim plug, I may never have noticed. It's a cool feature on the IP but isn't required for normal operation.

One of these days I'll experiment and see what happens with the control rod sensor unplugged! :D :D


Regards,

Any preventative mantainence for this?

I keep a fuel additive running about 50% of the time and purge with the filter changes. I would just hate to faced with an IP rebuild.

1992 300D 2.5 Turbo 175,000 miles

Not really much PM you can do. Additive every few tanks won't hurt though, use something good like RedLine 85+ or Stanadyne. I also use PowerService stuff which is pretty reasonably priced. The only other thing is to use a good synthetic engine oil like Mobil-1, Delvac-1, Amsoil, or Red Line. The IP is lubricated internally with engine oil so this does matter. Synthetic will also help your turbo last longer (deals with the heat better), increase MPG, reduce wear, speed up cold starts, etc. Just use extended drain intervals (5-10kmi) to help offset the cost (so far my testing indicates 10kmi is no problem, I'm trying 15k next time on the one car.)

I wouldn't fret about a rebuild, as long as the engine is running well, and the pump doesn't leak fuel or oil.



Regards,