|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Oil Filter...
If you guys remember, I had the API service question, and I did get the wrong oil, so I've got 2000 miles on this oil, and I am going to change it very soon because it seems to not be doing very well (oil pressure takes a lot longer than it used to to come up, and I get a clicking before the engine is warm that never occured this often, it did happen before this oil, but once in a blue moon).
I'm thinking going synth blend or full synth (and definately paying attention to the API service rating), with a lighter weight oil to prepare her for winter. I remember someone on here saying that full synth eventually quited up the more clacketiness that the 60X have... this true? All of you seem to say that STP filters are *****. Which oil filter should I buy for my 190D 2.2 and where do I get it? $$$? Thanks guys.
__________________
1984 190D 2.2 Auto 220k 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 70K 2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K 2005 Chrylser Crossfire LTD 6K Play guitar? Go to www.cyberfret.com for free online lessons! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Fastlane has good filters.... I don't know what's available for the 190 but any of the OEM filters should be good. (Hengst, Mann, etc.......)
__________________
1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks man.
Fastlane has Mann, Hengst, and Bosch. The bosch picture clearly reads 'made in india' just like STPs... Which one? Price doesn't matter here, I want the best for my car.
__________________
1984 190D 2.2 Auto 220k 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 70K 2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K 2005 Chrylser Crossfire LTD 6K Play guitar? Go to www.cyberfret.com for free online lessons! |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
It sounds like your oil may be a bit too heavy. Synthetic is less viscous at lower temperatures, all else being equal, so it will tend to get moving faster on a cold start. In the winter you should probably not go higher than 10W-40 if you use dino oil and some may argue even that's too high if you park outside. I'm not sure if your 190 has hydraulic lifters but on my 603 engine you can sometimes hear the valve train click when you first start up on a cold day because it takes a couple of seconds for the hydraulic lifters to come up to pressure. No harm done but all the same the faster the oil gets moving the better. Just remember to switch to slightly heavier oil in the summer.
__________________
LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Yeah, I do park it outside, and I also agree the oil seems to be too heavy. The clicking I am getting happens while I drive, which I hate. I drive nice and slow because I don't know what's ticking and what damage may result from me reving that thing. It's also not a good idea to rev it cold anyway.
The 190D 2.2 has the 601 which, like your 603, has hydraulic lifters.
__________________
1984 190D 2.2 Auto 220k 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 70K 2004 Lexus RX-330 ??K 2005 Chrylser Crossfire LTD 6K Play guitar? Go to www.cyberfret.com for free online lessons! |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
If you go synthetic, like Mobil1 or Redline, you don't need a lighter weight oil, as the synthetics have much lower pour points and cold viscosity than regular oil. I use Delvac1 5-40 year around in Michigan, and have used Mobil1 15-50 as well, with no problem.
On filters, get the Hengst or the Mann. They're both oem, so it doesnt' much matter which one. I just buy whatever's cheapest at the moment. Check Fastlane and http://parts.catalog.mbz.org or some other on-line places. They're cheaper than a local dealer. You mention the pressure slow to come up. Be sure you replace the little o-rings on the stem that runs through the middle of the filter. They age and get brittle and don't hold the oil in the filter well. Order a bunch when you buy a filter--they're cheap. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Bosch has "globalized" their filters, so I won't use them anymore unless they clearly state "made in Germany" or I cannot get anything else. Stick with Mann or Hengst.
I second the recommendation for synthetic oil -- I've used nothing else for years, it works, and will in fact cure the rattling lifters on a 601 in conjuction with new o-rings on the oil fiter center bolt. Your's are probably rock hard, if they are there at all -- they are NOT in the filter kit, so no one every notices them! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I’ve looked for these o-rings on my filter canister stem but have never figured out what everyone is talking about. There are what appear to be metallic washers down close to the tip of the stem. Are these not metallic on a 1983 240D? I see psfred’s post that they could be rock hard if they haven’t been changed. I can’t imagine rubber o-rings being as hard as what is on my car. If they’re not soft rubber, how do they go on? I have no oil pressure problem but would like new o-rings if they are needed. If they don’t come with the filter, where are people getting them? I saw one old post about the hardware store, but I’d like ones rated for that temp.
JohnM 1983 240D |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
JohnM, I could not imagine it either,,,then I took a small sharp knife and cut it off....and put the new rubber one on ... The po may never have changed them... with the heat, pressure and oil for 100 K+ ... perhaps impregnation by metal particles from the engine... it can look pretty cooked....
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
John - they are rubber orings and they were soft when they were first installed. If you take a small flathead screwdriver and try to "pry" them off they will break up.
__________________
Jim |
Bookmarks |
|
|