I've been able to isolate the noise on my ft end to the upper control arm on the drivers side. I got the part from Rusty. My Haynes manual is very shaky on this operation. Do I need a spring compressor to make it happen. Is it just unbolt, then bolt in new piece. I've replaced my ft rotors & brakes, properly cleaning bearings along the way. By the way, the new part seems very light as if it were made of aluminum, not some piece of steel. Any comments would be appreciated 85, 300d-t at 120ish K! And yes, I am replacing both sides.

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bznupe30
85 300d-t
97 legacy gt sw

If its a w123, you don't need to use a spring compressor or remove the coil spring. I just raised the car with the jack placed under the lower control arm at the coil spring. Then remove the wheel. This keeps the coil nicely under compression and there is minimal inward force on the upper control arm (Its more or less just sitting there, doing nothing at that point). Then just pop the upper ball joint connection and its pretty straight forward from there.

When you get everything back together and remove the jack, the weight of the car will again put an inward load on the upper control arm. In other words, if the arm weren't there, then the wheel would lean inwards big time at the top.

Aluminum works just fine. The arm is in compression or tension all of the time, so it could probably take several thousand pounds to cause it to fail.

I have replied to a post in this some time ago, but I replaced the lower bushings as well, which is a lot more work.

300D driver got it right, no compress needed for this task. Just follow his directions.

Did new sway bar bushings come with the new upper arm? I think they do....anyway, you definately should replace those while you are in there.

good luck, its pretty straightforward. easiest of the different suspension tasks I think.

Nic
'85 300CD