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  #76  
Old 11-18-2002, 05:47 PM
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This sorta violates 'chain system engineering' by my intuition...

If the crank is being used to pull the chain through the system... and the engine is rotated in the proper direction... then there should be NO slack between the load ( timing pump, cam gear ) and the pulling sprocket..... therefore I do not see how rolling the chain in with it connected to the old chain could introduce a descrepancy of a link.... ( I am not referring to a situation where the head is taken off )....

Anyone have any other ideas ? Thanks, Greg

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  #77  
Old 11-18-2002, 05:54 PM
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leathermang - good point, the chain is "tight" the whole time you are rolling it in and I don't think the length of chain taken up by the "tightening" of the tensioner and the tight condition while rolling it is in enough to make it "one tooth off".
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  #78  
Old 11-18-2002, 07:21 PM
Old Deis
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Remember we are talking about the lining up of those marks on the cam shim and the head. They are just large enough to show they line up even with something out a few degrees.
I did assume that with the leading part of the chain fully tightened by turning it would show if there was a discrepancy. But it did not show clearly. It did show a little offand if I was more of a technition I would have picked up on that and investigated fully. But with the chain loose in there the cam pulls through in starts and stops, with the action of the valve springs. The crank does more or less the same with compression. That being said perhaps the better way to do this job would be to pull either the injectors or the glow plugs to minimize that problem.
On this one before I pried the banana slide over tight the chain showed a small variance within the marks. With the slide pried over that variance was eliminated.
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  #79  
Old 11-18-2002, 08:34 PM
geojer
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LOCATION OF SLIDE BOLT???????

Remember me? I am the guy that posted the original thread....Now I have a question. I have the coolant drained, the thermo housing pulled and the tensioner out (oh yeah and the glow plugs, the PDF posted ealier stated to do this and it makes sense in order to turn the engine more easily). My question is Where is the bolt for the "banana slide" located? Is it behind the water pump?? oh no do I also have to pull that? can someone send me a pic or a good description. I looked around the front of the block and can't really see a bolt that would distinguish itself as the right one...I hope it isn't behind the pump..this job seems to be getting larger and larger.
Also, there seems to be a debate about rolling the chain in with or without the tensioner...the pdf file (an mb service manual) states to do it without the tensioner....does anyone agree...(oh boy I know I just opened a can of worms, if so, lets stick with the slide bolt question.)thanx
jb
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  #80  
Old 11-18-2002, 08:52 PM
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uh... no , don't remember you .... LOL...

MB MADE THE ENGINE..... follow the factory shop manual....
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  #81  
Old 11-18-2002, 08:54 PM
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I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the "banana slide" is held in by roll pins, which need to be pulled out - not a bolt. And these are a PITA to remove with a bolt & washer stack. There are nifty pullers but they cost $50-$100 or so.

As to the tensioner, yup, you need to remove it. Reason being that it ratchets, and will likely be too tight with a new chain. To re-set the ratchet you must remove it, pull the center portion out the face, and re-insert from the back side (external side). Don't cut corners on this one, just pull it out.

As to the slide - I wouldn't bother replacing it unless it is seriously grooved. Just my $0.02...




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  #82  
Old 11-18-2002, 10:32 PM
Old Deis
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I am 100% certain that the roll pin for the banana slide will be found down low on the front of the block. In fact it is right above the crescent shaped plate that holds the front seal in.
You do not need to pull the water pump. You do need to pull that plate off. Should be no problems there. Seal will not be affected. I don't recall if there is a gasket behind it or not. Don't think so.
Just look directly below the visible top part of the banana slide and follow a line straight down to the aluminum half round part sitting over the front of the crank. You will see it.
The Haynes manual has some very good pics and a description of how to pull it out. You set a large nut, or stack some washers over the pin, (large enough holes to allow it to be pulled through them) then screw in a bolt and it should pull straight out against the nut or the washers.
Reason that plate must come off will be obvious. The head of the roll pin is about a 3/8 inch across. The plate nearly overlaps the head of the pin. You need to clear all the way around it to get it out cleanly or it will jam against the nut you set there.
I did not replace the pin. Used some sealant and tapped it back in place. Maybe someone else had some better advice. but it did not seem to be a problem.
Good luck.
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  #83  
Old 11-24-2002, 11:21 AM
geojer
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HELP

Finally had time this morning to roll in the new chain now I have a problem. I put tension on the old chain as I pulled it out, and the new chain went in smoothly appearantly without skipping a tooth (I had slid my had along the top of the cam sprocket as the new one rolled in so how could it possible skip?). The problem is that when the new chain rolled up to itself on the cam sproket, it is one link out. In other words I would have to let the back part of the chain (the side opposite the IP) slack down into the block in order to match the links, or remove one link from the new chain. What is the solution? the front side (IP) side I am sure did not skip a link, so is the back side just tight because I removed the tensioner so now I must put the slack in the back side that will be taken up by the tensioner? this seems like the answer but want to confirm this.
thank you
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  #84  
Old 11-24-2002, 06:58 PM
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All that really counts is that you have no slack between the load and the driving wheel... in the direction of normal turning... so it sounds like you are in great shape..

Can you push the detent tensioner forward to take up the initial slack ? Can you put oil pressure to it without starting or turning over the engine ? You do want to take up as much of that slack which you induced by taking out and putting the tensioner into its startup position... but I do not know if one can just " start it up"....since the starter will be moving the driving wheel you may can just turn it over with the glow plugs out fast enough to create the oil pressure which will move the tensioner out...

But it would be safer to wait till someone that is sure posts...

But you should feel good about the progress so far... new chain

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