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#1
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Brake Question
I'm getting ready to do the front brakes, there is no anti-rattle spring that I can see like the Haynes manual shows. There are two clip-like springs (top and bottom) on each side however that hold the brake pad pins like the anti-rattle spring would, they also push outward on the pads. The problem is I don't see how to compress them so I can get the pins out. Is this original or has someone replaced the anti-rattle spring with these at some time? Help!
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#2
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When I did my front brakes I just used a punch to drive out the pins. I didn't need to do anything to the spring to get the pins out. The spring did not look exactly like the one in the Haynes manual.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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I thought about using a punch to get them out but I'm worried about getting them back in too if the springs get in the way. Thanks, I guess that's really my only choice.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#4
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Punch the pins out. The springs your talking about slide through both sides of the spring. It's the only way to get them out. They pull right out with no effort other than a little pinch and pull.
Then all you have to do is grab the pads one at a time and pull them out with pliers or something while you tug and shake till they break loose. Then depress the pistons, clean up the area with compressed air, or brush and clean as much as you can (watch for flying harmful brake dust, i guess), Put the new pads in after you put some anti lock stuff on them. Check the pin to make sure it will go in the hole and back through the slots of the springs in both places and then out the last hole where you will put the little "lock pin" back through the tiny little hole, that you should have manuvered to be accessible on the way through the last hole, and your done. I think the manual says to do only one side at a time and open the cap to the master cylinder, extract some fluid possibly. and watch for fluid coming out as you depress the pistons back in. you may want to cover the master cylinder so that nothing contaminates it, and place rags around and below the master cylinder in case fluid does comes out. It didn't on mine last week on the back brakes. I'm no expert and probably forgot something important that the pros will spot, but I did this last week and I was amazed at how easy it was on the second one after learning on the first.
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David Dodge 1982 300D Turbo Mercedes 1948 Willys Jeepster Last edited by David Dodge; 10-31-2002 at 10:47 PM. |
#5
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"Pushing the pistons in with the pad still there is infinitely easier"
I knew I would forget something like that!
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David Dodge 1982 300D Turbo Mercedes 1948 Willys Jeepster |
#6
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Thanks guys, your instructions make me more comfortable doing this. I would take it to a brake shop but I hate paying someone to do something that I can do for the price of the parts and a little time.
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1985 300D Turbo ~225k 2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k 1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k |
#7
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IMPORTANT NOTE!
Remove and replace the pads ONE AT A TIME. Don't remove both pads, then force the pistons back into the bores. The pressure can force the opposing piston out to far, in which case the caliper will have to be disassembled to correct the problem. So, remove one pad, push that piston into the bore, put in the new pad, then remove the other pad, push its piston into the bore and put in that new pad. Been there, done that. Good luck, |
#8
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If you are worried about overflowing the brake fluid resevoir when you push the pistons back in try attaching a bleed hose to the bleed nipple and opening it slightly as you push on the old pad (piston). Only crack the bleed nipple open when you have pressure on the piston and you will expel a small amount of fluid and avoid drawing any air into the system. You'll also have a much easier time of pushing the piston in, just don't push too far.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold |
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