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  #1  
Old 11-03-2002, 01:33 PM
The Least of These
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Exton, PA
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Ball joint on a 124 - How tough?

Well, it looks like it is time to do the left ball joint on my '92 2.5. Boy, it really has been making a racket over the past few days!

In looking at the CD, it is not clear if I will need a press to R and R. I am wondering if I should give this one a shot or give my mechanic and have him do the whole front end? What do you guys think?

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1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus
1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold
1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold
1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2002, 04:15 PM
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To do the lower control arm ball joint you need to compress the spring. The shock is the normal stop, but that bolts to the steering knuckle which in turns secures to the ball joint which you'll be removing. Then you'll need the ball joint tool. You can buy an entire dealer conrol arm for $190-$230 that includes new bushings and ball joint. But that still requies a spring compressor.
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2002, 09:14 PM
The Least of These
 
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Brian,

So it sounds to me like it would be easier just to replace the whole control arm. Is this a DIY?

Who is your supplier for the control arm? FastLane does'nt offer it.
__________________
1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus
1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold
1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold
1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction
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  #4  
Old 11-03-2002, 10:35 PM
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For suspension parts, I only use MB dealer parts. Get from your local dealer or Rusty Cullens 1-800-741-5252, specify dealer parts, and told him Brian Toscano told you about him. He can get dealer parts too, shipped Fedex next day straight from the MB parts depot. If you go for the complete control arms, you may want to get eccentric bolt kits - your car will have them, but you may want new ones. They're about $9/ea and you need 4. Keep in mind you need a spring compressor for this job.

-brian
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2002, 10:47 PM
CJ CJ is offline
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It is a do-it yourself job, it just takes some muscle and making sure the car is high enough off the ground.
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2002, 07:49 AM
The Least of These
 
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Location: Exton, PA
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Well guys, thanks so much for the help. It looks to me like a lot of nut and bolt removal. A few questions:

Do the two eccentric bolts just slide out or do I need a special tool for them?

The CD mentions the need for a spreader to remove the ball joint from the clamp. Does this need to be a MB spreader or will anyone do?
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1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus
1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold
1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold
1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction
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  #7  
Old 11-04-2002, 08:27 AM
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You should be able to tap the bolts out. Do you have access to a spring compressor?

-brian
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  #8  
Old 11-04-2002, 08:34 AM
The Least of These
 
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Location: Exton, PA
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Thanks, Brian. I think I can rent one from Auto Zone. By the way, how long do you think this should take me - a few hours?

Also, I've noticed that fastlane does not carry control arms but they do carry balljoints. I am wondering if it would be more economical to have a machine shop R and R the ball joint and and bushings.
__________________
1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus
1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold
1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold
1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction
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  #9  
Old 11-04-2002, 08:43 AM
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Spring compressors from AutoZone will NOT work! You can rent one from a place like Performance Products or buy one for about $500-800. Some people fabricate their own, but consider safety! I found it easier to get the entire control arm fromdealer or Rusty. My problem was the shop installed them incorrectly the first time around 8 months earlier. Its a pain to hammer out the old bushings and then reinstall (correctly) the new ones. Find out how much it will cost.
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  #10  
Old 11-04-2002, 10:47 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
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Its just a matter of attitude..

I think u can do it, i am sure you can..Its just a matter of believing u can


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  #11  
Old 11-04-2002, 03:24 PM
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Brian is correct on all his posts... and believe me, you don't want to attempt to use an AutoZone type spring compressor on MB springs. Unless you have your life insurance policy paid up. Just rent the proper tool from IMPCO.

BTW, look at your control arm bushings. If they all look fine, you could just do the ball joints (need to be pressed in & out). If some of the rubber bushings are shot, though, I'd replace those as well. The bushing kit is ~$50/side, or you can get the whole arm like Brian said for ~$200/side with all the goodies installed. But you STILL need the MB spring compressor! I've done this job numerous times...




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  #12  
Old 11-04-2002, 09:52 PM
The Least of These
 
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Location: Exton, PA
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I spoke to my local MB specialist today. He said he can replace the ball joint with the control arm still in the car. Evidently he has a special tool. Total cost around $170. He said the c-arm bushings should last at least 300K and to do them now would be a waste. He has only ever done c-arm bushings on the 86-89 124s, never on a 90-93. His 91 300D has 324K with the origional bushings.

I sincerely appreciate everone's thoughtful replys. However, I think I will save myself the time and frustrations on this one. With the help from this forum, I have actually managed to do everything needed on this car for the past 50K exept replace the tires and service the trans. So, now I do not mind dropping a few bucks and saving my bumps and bruises for another day... Thanks again.
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1996 (W210) E300D 86K - Traded in for a Lexus
1992 (W124) 300D 2.5 Turbo 202K - Sold
1983 (W123) 300D, 146K - Sold
1970 280S, 263K - Sold - Beginning of addiction
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2002, 10:23 PM
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Your mechanic is correct, you can do the ball joints only with the spring in the car, if you have the proper pressing tools (although it is safer with the compressor). The joints are cheap and will cure that pesky snapping noise up front. Wouldn't hurt to check the sway bar bushings while you're up there, they can be in pretty sorry shape after 10+ years, and they are really cheap ($5/ea).

However, his comment that the control arm bushings last 300k+ are asinine. More like 150-200k unless the car has had a REALLY cushy life (moderate temperatures and perfectly smooth roads.) Sometimes even if they are not obviously worn (falling apart, like on my '84), the ride quality suffers because the rubber hardens. He is correct that the older the car (86-89), the more then need it, because rubber fails with age more than mileage. I'm NOT saying your car needs them, it is only a moderate possibility on a early 90's car, but claiming 300k is hilarious...! (To me, anyway.)


Best wishes,
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  #14  
Old 11-04-2002, 10:25 PM
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Yes, without the tools its difficult and unsafe. I disagree with his comment about the bushings. They are VERY durable, however, depending on climate and road conditions they may need to be replaced much sooner. When I bought my car they SHOT at 185Kmi.


-brian
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  #15  
Old 11-04-2002, 10:26 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
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Please don't....

now I have lost some of my inspiration. You are talking to the dummy who once spent 6 hours in a Hot August junkyard taking an engine out and who missed his daughter's party....


http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rtc9/BENZ.html

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