I have a '76 240D with 160k and I dont know what is up with the engine. It smokes when hot and on deceleration and has no power up hills. I have set the valves to the spec in the book, in fact I have set them about 10 times. The first time I atempted it the car had no power and clacked like a belly dancer. So i did it again and again until it ran somewhat smoothly.
Do I just have them set improperly? I could not figure out how to turn the engine over with a wrench so i could not do the adj. just like the book said, I bumped it with the starter.
The cam was replaced because the prior owner never adjusted the valves and i guess they messed it up. I have not tested the injectors.
Any info would be appreciated.

Bumper,

You turn the engine by using a deep 27mm or 1 1/16 socket wrench and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt. Turn clockwise when facing the engine.

Get .003 .005 .013 and .015 inch feeler gages and use them as go and nogo gages. I.E. if the .003 gage goes between the cam and cam follower and the .005 gage doesn't go, the intake valve is adjusted properly. Same goes for the exhaust valve using the thicker gages.

Did you have the high part on the came lobe 180 degrees to the valve (lobe pointing up) when you adjusted or measured the valve lash? This is the proper procedure.

I don't think impropererly adjusted valves is the reason for the problems you described. It sounds more like you have bad rings. Usually valves that are too tight will cause hard starting because they don't seal properly but that doesn't cause smoking. Have you overheated the engine or run it out of oil? That can destroy the rings. You should do a wet and dry compression test.

If the car was not properly maintaines by PO, your engine could just be worn out. I have a 240D that had the engine replaced by PO at about 160K miles, but I don't know why.

P E H

P.E. is right. Although your valves need to be properly adjusted, I don't think it is the source of your problem. You need to do a compression check. If the compression is okay, you may need to clean or replace the injectors and check the injection pump timing.

Good luck,

Thanks for the reply.
I set the valve lash correctly, on the flat side of the cam. The book said to turn the engine over at the cam bolt. This didnt work so well.
The engine runs well on flat ground but looses almost all power on hills, it is like when the rpm's drop off it wont go.
How do you do a compression check? are there holes into the cylinders where the glow plugs are?

At what altitude do you live and how big a hill are you climbing? These 240d's are dogs, especially with automatic transmission. Have you driven another 240d to make a comparison? My 300d on hills in Denver is a dog. I can't imagine what a 240d would be like.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

You might check the timing on your I/P. Mine had the same symptoms as you indicate. I did as you did except I checked the timing on the I/P and found it out 15 degrees. Now no smoke and runs much better on grades.
Just a thought...
Good luck,
Hugh

Bumper, would you check that book again and see if maybe it said " crank bolt" instead of "cam bolt" ?

Yup crankshaft bolt. I feel very stupid.
The book that i have does not show the injector pump that is on my car, Im wondering how to adjust the injection timing?

Proper valve clearance is very important for all diesels. Would suggest getting a pair of the Hazet adjusting wrenches, made for MB diesels. Adjust when engine is cold. To rotate the engine, if you have a manual shift, jack up the rear wheels, put it in 4th or 5th gear, and rotate the wheel to get the proper cam setting. Good luck.

I find it easy to turn the engine with a large cresent wrench on the power steering pulley bolt. Much easier than trying to reach down to the crank pulley.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Kerry, the problem comes if you ever need to take off that pulley on the power steering pump...TCane and I heated and cooled his three times with oxy-acet before it grudingly came off... the PO had used it to turn the engine also...
There is a reason the books say use the crank bolt...
Bumper, Don't worry about it... they both start with a " C "

Bumper,

Take a look at:

http:/business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley/autofaqs/iptiming.htm

This is for the turbodiesels but should be similar for your engine.

In short, you turn the injection pump to change the injection timing similar to turning the distributors on older gasoline engines to change the spark timing.

When you adjusted the valves did you check the timing chain elongation?

P E H