I recently replaced a 1979 240D motor with one from a 1982. The 1982 motor had an EGR valve and assorted plumbing. In discussing the swap with a local Mercedes diesel mechanic he indicated that I could take the intake and exhaust manifold from my 79 motor and install in on the 82 motor to eliminate the EGR system. Well I took his advise and now cannot get the engine to run. The engine was in perfect running condition prior to the swap. Has anyone out their performed such a modification? IF so any advise on how to get the engine to run would be much appreciated. I wasn't too careful in removing the EGR components and would probably have to purchase new hardware.

We have a member who went through the same thing in the past year - user "engatwork" - who will help you out as soon as he sees this thread.

While you are waiting for a response - take a look at this lengthy thread - it gets into some pictures as you get further in:

Condition of non-running 240D engine

Ken300D

The egr should not have anything to do with it not running. Are you getting the fuel to your injectors the way you are supposed to? Did you remove the fuel injection pump? How bout the glow plugs - are they the same as the old motor? Did you use the same gp relay? Are you getting power to your glow plugs. When I first started mine after the rebuild I found the gp relay was inoperative.

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Jim

Thank you for all of the information provided.

I got it started tonight after changing the position of the injector pump slightly.
Couldn't get the motor to shut off, looks like the cutoff solenoid needs replacement.

One thing I did notice is that fuel is seeping around the injectors. Is this something that I need to be concerned with or will it correct itself when the engine reaches operating tempature? I read somewhere that adding two cycle oil to the fuel helps keep the injectors clean. Have you heard of this and if so would you recommend it?

Finally I also converted from automatic to standard transmission. The conversion when very smoothly without any problems. I'm hoping to get alittle better performance with the standard.

Thanks again for all of your help.

Mark

Way to go - how does it run? You will probably want to try to do the "start of delivery" ip timing set to make sure you have the timing where it is supposed to be.

Replace those "return" lines between the injectors and that should eliminate you seepage problem. Only use OEM hose material. I think it is about $10/meter.

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Jim

If the fuel is seeping up from the bottom of the injectors, you need to put in a set of injector seals. They are sometimes lost when removing the injectors. They stick to the bottom of the injector just long enough to pull it out, then they fall into never-never land.

As recommended you would be very well served to set the injection timing start of delivery. This is a relatively similar procedure. If you don't have a Haynes manual or something, we will describe it for you here.

Good luck,