Heater on drugs
I'm sure this question has been asked countless times in the past. However, here I get to ask it again.
The heater on my 300D works very erratically. I assume the heater core's okay; haven't noticed any coolant leaks. However, I have noticed that the heater doesn't work very well. Even in full DEFROST mode, the air actually only blows out hot slightly less than 50% of the time. The rest of the time, it feels like the air's not being heated or cooled at all. Even when the air feels like the heater's warming it up, I don't think the inside temp ever gets anywhere near the temp set on the wheel. Also, on EC mode, every window fogs up real quick and it starts feeling humid in the car. What should I be looking at? The a/c works pretty happily :) so I would guess the push-button unit's okay... Thanks in advance! |
Monovalve
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I thought that only some cars had the monovalve i.e. cars built before a certain date do and cars built after a certain date don't. I thoughthe earlier cars had the monovalve. Am I wrong? :)
Thanks! |
Monovalve?
Having similar problems but whatz a "monovalve"?
And yes, I am a neophyte. |
Hey, another Bay Area type. Welcome aboard!! :cool:
I believe the monovalve controls coolant flow through the heater core. Don't quote me on that, though. Also, on the monovalve...if that's what it is, I looked on Fastlane and they have a repair kit listed. Can that be used, or do I have to replace the whole bloody thing? Thanks! |
That's what it does and I believe the repair kit is the trick. You also might be able to use the monovalve from a 671TIB Detroit(kidding)
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According to my manual, in the EC mode, the A/C should not operate (Economy Mode= no A/C) so I'm not sure why the windows are fogging up. I concur though on rebuilding the monovalve.
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Tim,
I had this same thing going on with my '82 as soon as it got cold. I got the monovalve repair kit from Fastlane and in 5 min. it was done. Man what a difference. I thought I had problems with the t-stat and heater core becaust the valve would move in and out like it is supposed to do, but with the new parts in, it blows and and stays blowing hot. Robert |
Quote:
Also, Bill, where is the monovalve located on a 123? I went over to the aforementioned page (thanks for that; I had the page bookmarked before my computer took a dump) and the only description I saw on a location was on a 126. Thank you all thus far :) |
My .02
The AC pump should come on with the defroster. This is a normal operation in most cars. My Cadillac does this, but I cannot defeat the pump in defrost mode. If I hit EC, the defroster is diverted to heater mode. I live in San Jose, so my weather is the same as yours, and if I didn't have the AC pump running in defrost mode, I wouldn't be able to see for quite a while. If you are perhaps confused with the AC pump running while in heat mode, the hot water easily defeats the cooling effect of the AC. Having the AC dehumidify the air while in heat mode, makes for a much more comfortable environment in a car. Fix your monovalve first, then report back on the humidity level inside your car. There may be some leak somewhere but that would show up as a level drop. More likely, the AC drain is plugged. The AC is very adept at removing moisture from the air, but this moisture needs to leave the car by a drain. Check the drain hose (under the car, sorry). |
Tim,
The monovalve is located on the firewall just to the right (from in front of the car) of the battery. There are (4) black heater hoses converging into the valve body. There are (4) screws that hold the valve solenoid. The rebuild kit includes a new valve piston with new rubber washers. All that is required to re-build is to pull out the old piston, and replace with the new one. Then replace the spring washer that is between the solenoid and the valve body. This is a very straight forward proceedure. Robert |
My 85 300CD has the problem of heat for a moment, then ambient temp air. If you bypass the monovalve won't the coolant circulate unimpeded (and unregulated of course) through the core? What are the odds of the core packing up...mine doesn't leak, but I am really suspicious of a clogged tube...
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Monovalve location photo by MVK
Its a monovalve almost certain. Check my past link at
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/38770-image-location-monovalve-1985-300d-turbo.html?highlight=monovalve Also the auxillary water recirculating pump can be culprit but that is about 5% chances 95% its the Monovalve. No you dont have to buy the whole valve unless the valve body is cracked( and you will se a lot of coolant leak around it). The mono valve stem is the only thing you need. This is the part of the repair kit. I did mine last year and wow it heats good now. MVK |
Humidity from your exhaled air
Ok guys.
In the winter time or cooler weather, the humidity from out exhaled breath( consistes of lot of water vapor) quickly condenses to the wall of glass because the glass is cooler than the body temp. In summer it takes longer to fog up as the glass is not that cold. When you turn the defrost on, the AC compressor kicks in and the air in the cabin is dehumidified no matter where you set the temp dial. This principle is true for all the cars. In MB setting to defrost kicks on AC compressor and automatically overrides the temp dial setting and sends warm air from defrost vents. MVK |
...swuut I said !
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