Brakes...again... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

The Warden · #1 11-21-2002, 06:26 AM

Hello! I mentioned a while back that my brakes need doing at some point. Well, I think the point's come where I need to do them pretty quick. I'm doing a 400mi one-way trip this weekend (that is, unless work calls me in

), and I think that the pads are getting low enough that I should do them before leaving. I believe that the rotors are okay, so all I need to do are the pads (I'm pretty sure the rear pads are getting low too, so I gotta do all 4 wheels). I had originally intended to get them from Fastlane, but unfortunately I didn't plan this well enough, so I need them ASAP (pretty much, tomorrow). Do typical MB dealers charge a fortune and a half for pads? If so, where would be the best place to go for 'em? I'm sure I need the sensor wires as well, which I assume will need to come from the dealer this time around.

Any idea where would be the best place to get a decent set of pads at a decent price? Thanks in advance! BTW, in addition to the Benz dealer, I've got a Kragen, Pep Boys, and Napa within easy driving range (in fact, I have to go to both the dealer and Napa anyways).

gsxr · #2 11-21-2002, 09:46 AM

The dealer cost for pads usually isn't THAT bad, but each dealer has their own price policy (percentage above MB list price) so yours might be good OR bad. Call and find out. Your other option is to call BuyMBParts at 800-741-5252, they can get you OE dealer parts shipped from MB's warehouses, FedEx overnight at wholesale cost (no extra charge for FedEx!). If you order this morning you'll have them tomorrow afternoon. The sensor wires are pretty cheap, about $2 each wholesale (you need 4 of them).

If you must buy local, see if any of them have Textar, Pagid, or Jurid (not likely though.) Just don't get the cheap sets. I seriously doubt the rear pads are worn, they usually last 2x-4x longer than front pads.

rickg · #3 11-21-2002, 10:21 AM

Up until getting involved with this forum, I had always used Napa parts with no problems. If you get their best grade, they should be pretty close to what you'd get elsewhere. But I'm sure someone here will argue this point.

Holson Adi · #4 11-21-2002, 02:10 PM

Yeah I agree the dealer doesn't charge too much for the brake pads. I paid some $10 over what I'd have paid from other places. These are Mercedes-brand pads.

The Warden · #5 11-21-2002, 02:22 PM

Cool, thanks!

And I haven't pulled the rear wheels off, but by looking through the wheels at the calipers with a flashlight, I don't see any pad material at all on the rears. That's why I think they need doing.

Dealer it is unless they decide to charge a fortune...thanks again!

{added in edit} Yipes! Called Autobahn Motors in Belmont (best MB prices I've found aruond here), and they want $60 for the front pads and $30 for the rears. Napa wanted about $45 for the front pads, I believe. I think I need to figure soemthing else out PDQ...does the shipper that Fastlane uses deliver on weekends? If so, maybe I can order the pads from them and have the pads shipped to the place I'm going to...but if that happens, they gotta be there by Saturday.

#6 11-21-2002, 02:41 PM

I would offer several things here. First of all, if the light on the dash is not on, you should not need to replace the sensor wires.

Secondly, the front pads typically wear much faster than the rear depending upon your driving style.

Additionally, if your wear sensors are in place properly and the light is not on, I would be very surprised if you are at risk for a 400 mile trip. There is a LOT of thickness left in the pads once the sensor makes contact. Don't get me wrong, I am not encouraging you to ignore the sign, but you need not panic.

Given that it is so easy to slam in a new set of pads, I would simply just check them and make the trip in peace.

Good luck,

The Warden · #7 11-21-2002, 02:51 PM

Actually, this is kinda embarassing, but yes, the light's on, and it's been flickering on for quite a while now. Thing is, now it's starting to be on more solidly and constantly. It still goes off at times when the brakes are not applied, but there are also times when it will stay on regardless. I think it started flickering on a couple months ago (I don't remember the exact date, but it was shortly after I replaced the voltage regulator). I would have done this earlier except for $$ concerns; also because I figured I had a fair amount of life left when the light started coming on.

Also, this will be the first time the brakes have been done since I've owned the car, so I don't know when the rear brakes were last replaced. But, at least by looking at the caliper through the wheel, the pad backings on the rear brakes look to be about as close as that on the fronts.

Also, I think the brakes are starting to squeal...I'm not sure on that, though; I heard the noise but am not sure if it was my car or not...

Thanks for the comments!

#8 11-21-2002, 03:09 PM

I used to buy very good brake pads for 123's at an independent foreign auto parts store that sold Beck Arnley parts. They were great pads and cost about $11 per axle. I'm sure they are more expensive than that now, but it would be worth a look in the yellow pages to find an independent parts store with Beck Arnley stuff.

I doubt that you've damaged anything yet, but by your description you should definitely plan on sticking them in.

If you've never done them before on these cars, you're in for a treat. The only thing that will not be obvious in doing the job is that it is VERY IMPORTANT to remove and replace only one pad at a time. If you were to remove both pads from a caliper then push one of the pistons into its bore in order to fit the pad, the other piston will be forced out to a point where the seal is out of the bore and will not go back in place without rebuilding the caliper. So, pull out one pad, force the piston back in the bore, put in the new pad, then repeat for the other pad in the same caliper.

Good luck,

#9 11-21-2002, 03:51 PM

Pads at least OEM pads are not cheap no matter who you get them from. FastLane was about the best around and they do ship overnight via Airborne or UPS. If you order today they should have them to you by 2pm tomorrow.
If the light is on you will need new sensors but even if you go a macparts place for the pads and they don't have sensors in stock you could add the sensors later. It is a very easy job, could not believe how easy it was till I did my own last year. Should be a law that all brakes be built like MB

lrg · #10 11-21-2002, 04:01 PM

You may still have enough pad left to make your trip but you'll need to pull both front wheels and look closely to be sure. You really can't get a good look at the pads without removing the wheels. The light goes on pretty early and depending upon where/how you drive you probably still have some (little) pad left. Also, usually only one pad is worn down enough to trip the light. DON'T let the pads wear down all the way through the hole in the pad that the sensor is in but if some of the sensor is still left you ought to be able to make your trip, especially if it's mostly highway miles. I wouldn't make a practice of this however.

mnorton · #11 11-21-2002, 05:09 PM

just put anything on! Blimey - discs are a fortune, and you can put pads on in an hour for both sides. Get your overalls on!

Get originals if poss - only $ about 10 cans of bud more...or get them in 5k if you put cheapies on

#12 11-22-2002, 06:21 AM

I have never attempted to change brake pads on any vehicle I have owned. In fact, I have never seen the procedure done. I have been participating in this forum as well as Fred's TDI forums and most people who do their own brakes give the impression it is a fairly easy process.

Are there any special tools necessary? Are there any threads / sights which show a step by step, perhaps with photos?

Rick Miley · #13 11-22-2002, 07:30 AM

SpannMan - use the search function and I'm sure you will find a procedure somewhere on this board to do the brakes. I've done them on both cars and they are one of the simplest jobs you can do.

One thing to note on the Jetta rear brakes is that the piston cannot be simply pushed back into the caliper. You must obtain the proper tool to fit in the notches so you can turn it and push at the same time. There's plenty of info on that at Fred's site.

Edit - click the DIY tab at the top of the page. The last article listed is the E class brake pad replacement. That's where I learned to do it.

#14 11-22-2002, 12:52 PM

I appreciate the pointer to the D.I.Y. area. I have found, and used, the oil change procedures. I just missed the brake change procedures.

mnorton · #15 11-25-2002, 02:31 PM

Sorry Spannman - didn't realise you hadn't done these before; well, good news it's pretty generic doing the brake pads on these cars (if you're W123) - remove wheel, remove circlips from pad retaining pins, remove retaining pins then you need to try and get the pistons pushed back into the caliper to give you room to insert the new, thicker pads. Either remove a pad, or squeeze a thin prybar (old screwdriver?) into the gap between pad and disc to get a bit more clearance, then get a bigger prybar and try and lever the piston back into the caliper (remove brake fluid reservoir lid). Please make sure the pressure is even on both edges of the piston as you attempt this, or you may get the piston wedged in the caliper. If not too much dirt etc should force back evenly, and as Haynes always say, to refit [pads]reverse the procedure.

Only other bits is be careful when removing the wear indicator from the connection of the old pads - connectsd half way up the strut, and can get a bit rusty and break - squirt it with WD40 (or any penetrative lubricant) and disconnect carefully.