Hi,

Well... I decided to buy, rigged in a radiator, jumped the battery and with some kicking it started up and I drove it home. Too bad the radiator really leaked...So, now what do I do, the car has been sitting for 2 years or so, everything seems to work fine, at least drives fine, shift very nice...a little brake noise, but I think that will go away. My main questions are....

Tune up?

How does one start a diesel (method) - If I try and start it say in the morning, or when it hasn't been running, it will start - then die. Start then die...if I give it some gas and hold the idle a bit higher it sounds fine, but if I let off...it gets dangerously low and really shakey until my guess is that it has warmed up? Is this normal for a diesel? (It's cold here...around 30 tops)

Where is the best place (cheapest) to get a radiator/hoses?

How do I know if my fans are blowing air...I turned the nob to III, but I don't feel anything (how does one work the heating/cooling system...no users manual!

Any other advice for a first timer here?! Help help help! It's a sweet ride me hopes!

Thanks,
-Kurt

The cheapest place to get parts is probably here, on Fastlane.... The other problems I'm sure TXBill or someone else can answer much better than I can so I'll leave it to them. If nobody else has said it, welcome to the forum.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

best price for hoses is here on fastlane. I think your car has an idle control knob on the left hand side of the dash near the steering wheel. Turn it CCW to increase idle at start and turn it down after car warms up.
If the car has been sitting for 2 years you need to change oil and filter, replace brake fluid, flush and fill cooling system, replace both fuel filters. Also inspect all the belts and replace if they look dried out.

Kurt:

Starting instructions:

Turn key on and wait for the glow plug indicator (yellow lamp with coil mark) to go out. While waiting, depress accelerator and turn the D-shaped ring on the dash (I don't remember which side it is on on the W123 chassis) fully counterclockwise (I think!). This is the fast idle control.

When the glow plug light goes out, turn the key the rest of the way and crank while holding the accelerator part way down. Engine should start pretty quickly and run at fast idle. It will probably knock quite a bit at first, and may run rough.

Things to do:

You probably need new fuel filters (there are two -- a small clear plastic on in the suction line and a large spin-on one at the front of the engine). When you change them, you will need to fill the new spin-on with fuel when you put it on, or you will either have to pump the hand pump on hte injection pump until if fills or risk filling the injection pump with air. This will make it very difficult to start the car.

Also, you need to check the fuel lines for leaks. Most likely you have a leaking suction line from the tank -- fuel will siphon back into the tank, so the only clue you will get is that the line will be wet with fuel. The cloth cover will hide the rotten rubber. Also, you probably need to replace the hand pump, it is surely shot by now, and it will leak when yuo try to use it. This also measnt that it will leak air on the suction stroke on the lift pump, and this will give you the start-then-die behavior.

You need to adjust the valves, too.

The rotors are rusty for sure -- this will work off pretty quickly, but the rust may be deep enough to leave a high spot where the pads covered the rotor. If this is very high, you need new rotors, too. Check all the pads, too -- if the backing plate is close to the anti-rattle spring (or is touching it) put new rotors and pads on.

Change the oil pronto to a good diesel rated oil (CH-4 or CI-4 is best) -- a search on "oil" here will give you more information than you need on that subject.

The heater controls are manual on this car. There is a wheel with temps on it --- that is the AC control, and for heat it must be off. If the blower won't work, first check the fuses (under the hood on the driver's side, I think) -- chances are they are all corroded and need to be replaced. Switch the AC control on and off a couple times and make sure the AC flaps are moving in the dash -- if not, you at least need to set them to the heat position or you will only get air out the center vent.

If it starts, runs, and drives, you can restore it to nearly new condition at reasonable expense.

Keep us posted, I'm sure you will have more questions!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Actually, the climate controls on the 80 vintage 240D consist of a right and left knob with no temp marks. Turning on the A/C consists of turning down the heat for both side, and then turning up the seperate knob for the A/C. You are right though, the system is completely manual.

As for checking for airflow, if the vent on the left side of the dash is open, you should feel heated air through it, regardless of where you have the blend slide is set.

Hey, I've got one of these manual CC 240's too. Do you guys know how to remove the left/right knobs to replace the light bulbs inside them? The center knob pulls right off, but the L/R don't. Thanks!

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Ash Peltier - tools, truck, tales
---------510-331-4118-----------
1982 240D - (272,000)
1998 Honda VTR1000F(RT) Superhawk Freeway (58,000) "Madrid"
1996 Toyota T100 4x4 (84,000) "Mary Kay"

Pull harder...they come straight off and have the lights in the same place.

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Rich Mason
Chapel Hill, NC
1990 300D 285k miles
1993 VW Cabriolet converted to 1.6 TD
1985 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD

There is a slight possibility the fan motor is seized from sitting. Ask last owner if it was working the last time he used it if possible. Does not hurt to remove it and make sure brushes are loose and lubricate bearings,clean commutator up if accessable as well if fuse panel checks out. Have never removed one of these motors even though own a couple of 240ds. Do not know the level of difficulty and too lazy tonight to look it up. General check of car is advisable as well. check valve clearance, chain stretch, pump timing, centre rest bearing and mount, rubber disks on driveshaft,steering parts, all the rear axel boots, engine and transmission seals, rear end seals,flush brake fluid, oil levels in transmission and rear end, rubber exhaust hangers to make sure their all there or not rotten, lubricate all hinges and locks, do not forget the hood hinge pivot points especially as they will tend to seize sometimes. You may have to remove the battery to get the one on passenger side. I am sure am leaving a lot of things out but think above is the minumin I would do pretty quickly after purchase. Also as the fuel was sitting a couple of years get it dilluted with fresh fuel if not already from purchasing new fuel on way home. I would do a diesel purge as well. (details on this site try search function) Important to check that you are getting full throttle movement through linkage as well for maximum available power not that you need it on a 240d. Also if the air filter is very dirty (filthy) it could indicate nobody cared to maintain this car for a long time. Perhaps even the simple stuff. Removal and repacking the front wheel bearings unless you have some indication car was well looked after. A cheap manual like Haynes may be your best initial guide to these proceedures. Enough there to keep a guy going for an hour or two. All the above are pretty inexpensive to do as well and will also help get you familiar with 240ds pretty quickly. Diesel fuel can go kind of funny so do not be too concerned about your start up issues until you are positive you have good fresh fuel feeding engine. Of course putting the fast idle control to the left as several forum members have suggested has to be done as well for some of mine to even start when cold. Seldom do I touch the pedal when starting up cold or warming up.

Please note the dates on the posts. This thread is over 2 years old! So while all that info is appreciated, the only new question is driad_98's.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Thanks for the tip. Will remember to check threads initial starting date from now on. As well as post dates. Barry.