Yes, you have correctly located it, and yes, you can disable it.

:cool:

same with the non kali models.. example.. 1985 om617's

An ARV without the EGR valve is useless and does nothing but create more polution and waste fuel. If your EGR valve is plugged by all means plug the ARV as well.

I have my ARV plugged but not my EGR.

Note: tampering with the EGR and ARV may lead to your trap ox/ox cat plugging up sooner. Make sure you frequently put on some highway miles on if you do tamper with these to keep the trap ox/ox cat from plugging.

How's that work?

Does the valve dump boost downstream of the turbo?

It can't lower the intake pressure below the point of the exhaust where it dumps.........otherwise flow would be toward the intake.

yes. It dumps air from the compressor outlet to the compressor inlet.
It lowers the intake manifold pressure lower than usual compared to the pressure of the exhaust manifold before the turbo. You still have some boost but not as much as if the ARV was closed.

Thanks.......makes more sense.........inlet pressure is effectively zero gauge pressure.

That's the point of an EGR. Exhaust gas recirculation. A small amount of exhaust flows into the intake to lower the combustion temps.

The exhaust manifold (Before the turbo) will always have a higher pressure than the intake manifold. The ARV just makes the pressure difference larger to make more exhaust flow into the intake.

I was thinking that the ARV dumped to the exhaust side.......making it a problem for flow to the intake under certain condition.......but.........I've got it down now.......;)

If I disable the EGR and ARV on my car, will I have any problems with too much boost or higher temps?

Now that you mention it, I was wondering the same thing! Especially considering I've had some issues with high temps already.

No. If anything, temps will go down.

Great, that gives me something new to look forward to!! Less carbon build-up in the manifold, better efficiency/power, AND lower engine temps!! I'll have the anti-EGR kit installed this week!

If I completely remove the EGR, should I plug both those hoses or connect them together?


Also, I cannot find my ARV. Does a 1981 300SD have one?

Getting my tubes tied
 

I've had a BB "stuck" in the rubber vacuum line at my EGR valve for some time and was about to perform the same operation on my Air Recirculation Valve (ARV). As I learned more about the complicated (especially on my California version) system of solenoids and hoses, I realized that (a) I should turn off the vacuum as high up (close to the pump) as possible, so as to avoid future leaks and (b) as a previous poster noted, another way to block the line is to "cauterize" the hard plastic vacuum tubing with a soldering iron.

Well, I kinda like that idea. So, where to do the job? Looking at the plumbing and the gadgets and the attached photo, it would seem that the ARV is operated by a simple electric solenoid that controls a vacuum line. The EGR has a more complicated arrangement that does a similar job. Both solenoids have a vacuum source and what is apparently an "exhaust" (source of clean air) coming from the cabin, through a small filter. If that is correct, then all I have to do is to block the two vacuum source lines where they 'tee' off of the main line. That will completely remove vacuum from both solenoids and valves. Obviously, the air vent line can remain unmodified.

I prefer to leave all of the hardware in place. No, that's wrong. I would prefer to take it all off and throw it in a box, but I might need it again someday (for example, if California ever decides to inspect diesels). So I'll leave it all in place and dust around it.

If I have misidentified something and am about to blow up the IP, please speak up!

Jeremy

no...