Re-connecting trim pieces to backing? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

The Warden · #1 12-21-2002, 12:14 AM

The wood trim pieces on the far sides of the dash (the one outboard of the glove box and the one above the headlight switch) have fallen off the backing plate (under the foamy stuff that, I believe, originally served as the adhesive, it looks like a metal backing plate; it looks like the wood and metal are supposed to come off together). Also, the trim piece on the glove box is coming loose. Any suggestions on the best way to re-attach the wood to the metal? I originally thought of using superglue, but my dad told me that superglue has a tendency to get brittle and break. Any suggestions? Should I get the foamy stuff off the metal before trying to re-attach the two? The foamy stuff looks to be staying on the metal okay, although I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance!

speedy300Dturbo · #2 12-21-2002, 12:57 AM

Use 3M trim adhesive, the same stuff recommended to glue the hoodpads on. Make sure you use a clamp to hold everything together tight!

The Warden · #3 12-21-2002, 06:38 AM

Where can I get this adhesive? Is it a tape, or spray-on, or what? I assume that I'm going to need to pull the metal backing off of the dash itself.

84300DT · #4 12-21-2002, 08:11 AM

we can get the 3M spray stuff here at wal-mart. i have used the 2 part epoxy as well in the past with decent results (lasts a couple of years or longer)

#5 12-21-2002, 10:54 AM

Tim,
A local shop owner here in Texas advised me to use clear silicone.
His shop uses clear silicone because of it's ability to handle the heat of the direct sunlight, where the 3M adhesive gets soft. We have replaced a few pieces in both of my 300's and it holds tight.
The trick is to also use some long wooden brace, such as a cut broom handle to wedge between the seat and the trim peice.
Obviusly you want to also use some towels and flat peices of wood to protect the seats and wood trim from the brace, but once this is set-up, wait overnight to remove the braces. Like I have said, I have done this and it works great. Of course you being in San Fran, might not need to worry about the heat so much.

Robert

Ridge · #6 12-21-2002, 12:23 PM

The Warden,

A coat of contact cement on both surfaces and wait until dry and then press the wood firmly onto the foam always works for me.

The metal base for the wood can be removed from behind the dash by twisting the tabs until straight and then pull the metal out of the dash. The one on the pocket door requires removing the inside of the pocket door. Be careful on that one becasue the little screw on the right side of the door is a half turn affair and then pulls out. The hinge screws are different but can usually be removed with two small screwdrivers on the same nut.

Then the hard part, the sliding door lock. You need to compress the plastic tabs on top and bottom of the lock after removing the door liner. Careful, if you push too hard on the tabs they'll break. Once compressed the lock pushes completely out of the door.

When are you back up inb the Bay Area?

I'm moving in mid January.

Ben

The Warden · #7 12-21-2002, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ridge
A coat of contact cement on both surfaces and wait until dry and then press the wood firmly onto the foam always works for me.

Just wondering why do you want to wait 'till it's dry to apply? Not having dealt with contact cement (is this the same as rubber cement?) much, will it stick after drying? If I can avoid removing the metal backing and avoiding silicon (I can't stand the smell of silicon), I'll be a very happy camper. I like the idea of the broom-handle-brace

Quote:

When are you back up inb the Bay Area?

I'm coming back up on either January 4th or 5th. Just wondering, why are you moving?

Lycoming-8 · #8 12-21-2002, 09:57 PM

As a point of clarification, what was the original foam material? Appears to be some form of industrial grade double sticky tape. Is this correct? Can something such as that be used to make the repair? Also is/was there any adhesive material applied to the portion of the wood that wraps around the corner? Suspect that this might be a "Norm Abrams" thing about not trying to confine the wood in multiple directions.

#9 12-22-2002, 02:15 AM

You also want to remove that oil foam and adhesive backing for better contact between the metal and the wood. I removed my 300D's ahesive with some rubbing alcahol and paper towels. 3M trim adhesive works great.

leathermang · #10 12-22-2002, 11:17 AM

Ok, I will try to bring together this compilation..
Take the foam off if you can... you don't have a good grip if the foam is deteriorating...
The 3m comes in both spray and tube... and there are two of them... (at least two) one for heavy stuff like hood pads/carpet etc, and one for regular trim...
Rubber cement is what is made for graphics people to be able to put paper in place, then change their minds and it come off completely..
Contact Cement is entirely different.... this is what is used to put Formica onto your cabinet tops.. etc..
It is used by putting one or more coats ( depending on how porous the surface is ) .... it is called contact cement because it is only with itself that it really sticks... you put it on, let is TACK ... ( read the instructions ) this is typically 10 to 30 minutes.... don't leave it overnight.... and you press it together.. really well... this is the stuff which actually holds your soles on your shoes... the sewing around the edge is tradition... when it wears off the bottom your soles do not fall off your shoes....
The spray cans (08090 super trim adhesive is for the heavier stuff... 08088 general trim adhesive is for the regular stuff...) are really nice for large spaces where you need to spread it evenly..
Use it outside , you don't want to breath this stuff....
You might also try " shoegoo"... which I think Walmart carries... this is one of the strongest things I have ever seen while maintaining some flex... it is one of the silicone group Ben mentioned... when you have a thick glue be sure not to squeeze all of it out with too much pressure... clamping overnight is usually very helpful....

240 Ed · #11 12-23-2002, 07:33 AM

FWIW dept,
My glove box door on Benzina was glued on with that black goop the windshield guys use--don't know where to buy, but you might be able to pop into a glass shop and they can do it for you...

Fisherman · #12 12-23-2002, 10:42 AM

Hey Greg,
What no mention of Barge cement???
I would have thought you being a leather guy and all.

I have found that when all else fails, Barge cement can work wonders, sometimes you need to thin it a bit but when you talk about staying power and flexibility it is really, really good!

My .02

#13 12-23-2002, 02:05 PM

Warden

I believe you will be able to find the 3m products mentioned here at a Body & Paint supply shop. There are usually several around. Check the local yellow pages. Body shops use this stuff all the time.

leathermang · #14 12-23-2002, 05:10 PM

Fisherman, LOL... I have used and loved Barge all my life.. that is all my father ever used as contact cement.... we have always sworn by it....but for most stuff any good contact cement will do just fine if the directions are followed....I have 1.5 gallons of Barge in the leather shop right now....