Hello everybody,

I am having problems with my passenger side door. Doesn't seem to pull down consistently. I pulled the carpet and there is no leaking in the module. It feels like it has very little resistence locked compared to the other doors.

Did I leave the vacuum servo unlocked to the linkage or maybe ???? a spring or something broke.


Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

IF the module is not leaking, and it is still not pulling down, then you likely have a vacuum leak somewhere else. I would start with a manual trace of the vac lines up through the door and into any patches they come into. Doesn't take much to wreck the workings there.
You say pulled the carpet? Did you go into the door and remove and check the vac module? The leaks in the rubber skins on top and bottom can be very easy not to see. I usually pull a slight vacuum on the module with a vac pump several times while messing with the connector. If you just pull a vacuum all the way down it will sometimes seal the module and disguise the leak. Needs to be fiddled with while operating to make sure there is no leak.

Olddennis,

Thanks, for the response. Let me try again. It's not a vacuum problem. The module and lines hold vacuum. The other doors and kill circuit are fine. It's mechanical in nature.
It doesn't feel right pulling up the lock knob. It's very very easy where the others(and historically this door too) are much harder. Something has changed- spring, mechanism etc...

Michael

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Michael McGuire
83 300d
01 vw A4 TDI
66 Chevy Corsa
68 GMC V6 w/oD
86 300E

Michael:

I've always wondered if we're supposed to pull up the buttons against their will (if the vacuum is holding them down). Wonder if someone could speak to that issue.

My next move would be to take the door skin off and look at:

1. The mechanism that moves the button up and down. I had to replace one once.

2. The vacuum modulator itself. I may have an internal malfunction.

Good luck

Don

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DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

There is a small shackle (for lack of better terms) which has a spring at some point along the lock rod. This is usually a few inches below the exterior knob. The spring provides resistance and the shackle allows for some movement. If I was home I could provide a picture of the shackle.

The rod should be attached to the actuator be means of an 8mm nut, which is captured in the upper diaphram of a single rubber actuator or the bar of a double rubber.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Where the rod from the actuator connects to the door latch lock lever there is a "leaf point" spring holder that allows the lock button to override the vacuum element. Without this override, you wouldn't be able to unlock the door manually with the vac applied or vice versa.

I suspect that the spring is broken. A trip to the local "u-pull-it" is in order, since I suspect it would be much cheaper than a factory part.

The actuator connects directly to the door latch lock lever in the W123, I think. If you want it, and it is still there when I get back from Florida, I can get you one out of a W116.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!