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  #1  
Old 01-14-2003, 01:37 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 47
Question Fluid and procedure recommendations, please!

Hi,

Well, before I try and take the newly acquired 1980 240D on a trip I would like to freshen it up. I plan on doing this...

Valve Adjustment
Oil Changes (engine, tranny, diff)
Brake work (if needed fluid-pads)
Fuel Filters
Oil Filter
New hand pump
Air filter

What are the fluids I should be using, and how does one go about doing all this? Hints, tricks, does & don'ts? It is about ZERO degrees here these days, and I may have it done by a local shop..anyone know what this might cost? I may just bite the bullet and do it all myself, but like I said...ZERO degrees!

Thanks,
-Kurt

1980 240 Duluth, MN
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2003, 01:56 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Collingswood, NJ
Posts: 3,430
Oil: Since youre going on a trip, and the car is new, I wouldnt chance it with a synthetic... Use 15w-40 of either shell rotella T, Mobil Delvac or Chevron Delo.

Trans oil: If manual, can't help you except that I read redline synth is good stuff (again, the questions of synth on the old seals)

Diff oil: Mobil 1 has been known to super clean these old diffs... I had it in mine until the cv joint went, now I have exxon superflo 80w-90... Pretty much any name brand 80w-90 or 75w-90 oil would be good. If you use mobil 1 realize that it cleans so well, youll probably want to dump and replace it after your trip or ~1000 mi.

Brakes: A number of good posts about changing pads and swapping fluid at the same time can be found here... Id look at fastlane, and find the pad sets that are real MB OEM pads (you can tell because they have an attached shim and the MB star on them). Supposedly the shim that comes with those pads keeps them from squealing. I dont know if that is really necessary, as I used the regular cheaper textar ones from fastlane and havent had any problems... Plus the non-shimmed ones seem to have a bit more meat. Use ATE brake fluid that can be bought on fastlane as well, to replace what you bleed out.

Fuel filters: Get them (2) on Fastlane as well, handy to keep a spare of each as well.

Oil Filter: MANN or Hengst

New hand pump: Fastlane, about $16

Air filter: I like the MANN filters the best, again here

As you can see the general trend, most everything but oil, trans fluid and diff fluid I would but from fastlane right at the link above on this page. They support this forum, and have the best prices Ive found... They might have good fluids, btw, but I just have never looked nto any of them except the brake fluids...

JMH

P.S. If youre putting together an order on fastlane, you might want to check some other items, so you can buy them at the same time. When I got my car, I know I needed a new fuel cap, oil cap, breather tube, and air filter housing mounts. Also swaped out all my fuses, as they were original, and just didnt look good to me. You can get the ceramic fuses cheap here on fastlane. Glopw plugs might be smart ot swap, as well as the 80A glow plug strip fuse.
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2003, 04:54 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Collingswood, NJ
Posts: 3,430
Procedures

Valve Adjustment : This one is more complex than the fluid and filter changes... Your best bet is to buy a manual and read up for a while before trying it... It is also good to get a couple special wrenches, as it makes it easier. Id take it to an MBdealer (~$100) or an independent shop to do it. But remember, it needs to be done cold.

Oil Changes : Engine is simple, the filter is up top in a canister, filter torque is something like 14 ft-lbs, and the drain, I believe is ~33 ft-lbs. (simple, make sure to get dood diesel oil)
Diff youll need a 14mm allen wrench. These plugs can be really tight, so youll probably need a long breaker bar to get it loose the first time, if not some pushing with the legs to get it to budge. Open the top plug first, in case the lower one is seized. Fill to the upper plug's bottom. (simple; a bit more difficult job if the plugs are seized)

Brake work (if needed fluid-pads) : As I said there are some excellent writeups on how to bleed and change pads at the same time... Do a search. (pad replacement only is a very simple job, just watch your fluid levels)

Fuel Filters: One is screwed on, just loosen the top bolt, unscrew the filter, then replace and retighten the top bolt (Id suggest filling this big filter with either dino ATF, diesel, or diesel fuel additive). The other small filter is inline with the fuel flow, and is attached by hose clamps. (easy, if you fill the big spin on one with a fluid, you dont even need to worry about the hand pump, the car will just start right up...)

New hand pump: unscrew it and replace. I think there is a gasket that needs to be replaced as well.

Air filter: right on top of the engine.
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2003, 05:25 PM
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I agree with almost all of the above, with two minor differences. One, I'd highly recommend using synthetic oil - Mobil-1 15W-50, to be exact. It will make a HUGE difference in starting ability when it is ZERO degrees out. The 15W-40 dino stuff will be like molasses in the sump. The other item is the large fuel filter. Don't fill with ATF - that is a trucker's trick, but it is only needed for injection pumps that are lubed by the fuel, like on big rigs. MB pumps are lubed by engine oil. ATF can leave ash deposits, don't use it in an MB fuel system. Either fill the filter with clean diesel before installing, or better yet, fill it with LubraMoly Diesel Purge (available at FastLane, which is where you'll want to buy your parts.)


A couple other things to add to the already good information above:

1- Brake fluid requires changing every 2 years with DOT-4 fluid. I recommend using Valvoline SynPower DOT4+, which is about the best performing fluid that is easily available (at most local parts stores), and won't kill your wallet. If you don't mind spending nearly double, ATE Super Blue is better stuff but not necessary. You will want to pressure bleed if at all possible, check out the SpeediBleed pressure bleeder. I have one of these and LOVE it. If you bleed the old way (pumping pedal with 2 people), you risk damaging the master cylinder internal seals.

2- Glow plugs don't need to be changed as preventive maintenance, but it wouldn't hurt to keep a spare handy. You can test with an ohm meter, a good one will measure 0.6 ohms from the tip to ground.

3- The glow plug relay flat fuse on a 240D may be 50A instead of 80A. Definitely buy two of these. Replace your old one, even if it LOOKS fine, and then keep a spare in the glovebox. They're cheap, less than $1 each.

4- Replacing ALL the fuses is a good idea if they are more than 5 years old, and doesn't cost much either. This has cured a lot of weird electrical problems people have. Doesn't take long to do, either.


Good luck,
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