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  #1  
Old 02-01-2003, 04:39 PM
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Oh No... Clutch no workie!

This morning when I put my foot on the clutch pedal, it went to the floor with no resistance. Apparently, it is no longer connected to the clutch plate. Last night it worked fine and there was no indication that anything let loose then or this morning.

Is there something I should look at first? Now, working on these manuals is supposed to be easy, so now this one is up to the test. This better be an easy fix. I don't have my garage built yet!

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #2  
Old 02-01-2003, 04:44 PM
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Hate to ask this... but have you checked the fluid level ? Have you looked for fluid on the ground below your car ?

I was tempted to say it was junk... not worth fixing... since it matches my car....

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  #3  
Old 02-01-2003, 04:57 PM
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Ha Ha.

I'll go do that. I thought it was cable pulling a clutch/spring plate like my Harley. Didn't even think it was hydralic.

I'll check the level. No oil spots though. But it could be low.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #4  
Old 02-01-2003, 05:33 PM
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I guess it could be the hydralic cyclinder. Didn't even know there was one.

I can see the push rod going up and down but there is no resistance at all. I can push the clutch pedal in to the floor board, and it will just stay there.

BTW, I can see the drain plug on the side, but not the filler plug on top.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #5  
Old 02-01-2003, 05:45 PM
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the master cylinder for the clutch is fed from the resevoir (sp)for the brakes. i replaced both master and slave and spent hours trying tp bleed it.

i let it sit overnight and all the air worked its way up and out.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2003, 06:35 PM
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Brakes work andthe resevoir is full.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #7  
Old 02-01-2003, 06:52 PM
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pull the floor mats and see if you have a mess around the master cylinder. drive it up on the curb(homy ramps) and have someone watch the clutch fork while you push the pedal.

if nothing moves, i would try a couple rebuild kits.
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  #8  
Old 02-01-2003, 07:00 PM
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If you are not leaking somewhere... then you need to check for mechanical linkage failure... see if some pin has come out...
Most likely you have leakage inside ...
if you do kit it... some master cylinders MUST be bench bled... check the instructions for sure...
Some can be bled completely on the car... but the others you wind up taking the stupid thing back off...
Bench bleeding means holding it with a vise or something and pusing the plunger in usually while holding a finger over the escape hole.... that gets the air out of the actual master cylinder ,,, then you deal with the other air in the lines by bleeding after installation...
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  #9  
Old 02-01-2003, 07:28 PM
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Are we talking about the brake master or the clutch master?

I see that clutch masters are going for about $55. If I need one, I would rather go new, instead of rebuild.

My clutch pedal swings as if it is connected to nothing. It's like the clutch master in the footwell is empty on the inside.

I didn't notice any wetness that caught my attention. It has been snowy and above freezing, so I thought that what wetness I did see was water and not fluid. I will check.

How can I drive it up on a ramp without a clutch?
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #10  
Old 02-01-2003, 09:06 PM
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Well, I can see you are thinking ahead...
We are just a bunch of tightwads... A new clutch master cylinder is a great investment...many of us are old enough that we just naturally rebuild stuff like that.... that is a great price for peace of mind..
It sure sounds like a pin has come out.. if it swings like that...
If your pedal is connected to the master it should have " some" resistance one direction or the other... even just from sucking air.. but it has to leak out somewhere if it is dry in there..
You are going to have to bite the bullet and go look under the dash... I suspect you are avoiding it due to weather (?)

Last edited by leathermang; 02-01-2003 at 11:15 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-01-2003, 11:05 PM
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sorry, the ramp thing was stupid on my part.
push it up on the curb sounds better. the kids like to mess with the floor jack, so pulling up on a curb is safer for me.

take the master off. if the fluid is at the top of the line going to the slave, it is probably okay.

if i remember correctly, the brake resivoir will look full, but the cavity for the clutch has a dam to keep the brakes working.

use the same fluid you have in there now. (you bought the car from someone on this board, ask them what brand of fluid is in it)

be sure to get all the brake fluid off everything. it will eat a hole straight through to the ground. well eventually anyway.

use line wrenchs if possible. be thankfull it happened at home

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Last edited by tryan; 02-01-2003 at 11:14 PM.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2003, 12:01 AM
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I rebuilt a master cylinder once while I was in college. I am a tightwad about some things. I won't waste money on a new car again. I bought a 23 year old car, right?

Well, I took the center console and the kick panels out a couple of days ago because the heat/defrost lever was permanently stuck on heat and I was tired of cold feet while driving. I was able to get enough of the heater box open to find two pens stuck in the passenger diverter and a pair of needle nose pliers stuck on the driver diverter. They were successfully extracted.

Anyway... the clutch pedal is attached to the pushrod and I can see it (the pushrod) going in and out of the master cylinder. With no perceptable resistance at that.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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  #13  
Old 02-02-2003, 12:28 AM
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check your pm's
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  #14  
Old 02-02-2003, 12:29 AM
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$ 55 ... go for it....
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  #15  
Old 02-02-2003, 11:27 AM
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Although an oldie at automotive work, I'm a newbie a manual tranny work. So please impart some knowledge on me...

Does the clutch pedal return to the top from fluid pressure or is there a spring involved? I can push (not much of a push, just a move) the pedal to the floor and it will stay there. What is the mechanism on the clutch side?

I see the line going into the cylinder body on the transmission and the bleeder nipple coming out of the side. I could open the bleeder and see if I get any fluid while pressing the pedal. The fluid in the brake resevoir if pretty dark, so I don't expect it have ever been flushed. Could I just be out of fluid?

I am at work now, working on a hybrid vehicle controller and a common rail diesel controller so I won't get to the car 'til about 6pm. Can't say any more about the common rail system, except that it is for Pugeot and Ford. But I'd like as much info on my side as possible when I get home.

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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

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