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#1
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300sd
I'm new to the Mercedes line. I'm looking at a 300sd, 1982, 265,000 miles. The body is in great shape minus the rock chips, 2 rips in the drivers seat, but these are minor and don't concern me. What does concern me are the miles on the engine and tranny. What kind of miles are typical from these diesel engines and transmissions???I've owned a Ford diesel and have been around "big rigs" a lot, so diesels aren't new to me. Any other info that may aide in what to look out for before I buy... Asking price is $3500 o.b.o. Thanks Ron
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#2
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They are good cars if you can get a good one. I'm partial to the W123 series myself but basically the mechanicals are the same. Try to drive/test drive as many as you can. Do a search on here on these models and read all about them. He may be asking a little much with that mileage unless he can provide maintenance documentation. Tranny will become an issue over the next 100k miles.
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Jim |
#3
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His price is way too high for that car unless the body is absolutely perfect! Be sure to pull the trunk liner and sides of the trunk to look at the metal of the trunk. Then you can see if it really has any rust.
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Orland Park, IL 1985 300SD 215,000 miles |
#4
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I paid (gulp) $6000 for my '84 SD, and even though that raises eyebrows around here, I still feel I did ok. It had a practically brand new "crate engine", new suspension work, lot's and lot's of other repairs, and is pretty much rust free. I feel pretty confidant that the trannie doesn't have very many miles on it either. It's been the best car I've ever owned, even with the high miles on it. Period!
My opinion is these cars are worth what your willing to pay. I see prices all over the place, with condition almost running the full range from parts car to low milage "one owner" types. Check places like Auto Trader and your local paper and see what similar cars are going for. Then consider what you'd get for that price in another car(that was the clincher for me). Like Billrok says, check in the trunk for rust, especially in the 2 side recesses. Pull up the mat and look under there. Look for signs of the rear window leaking.(a big factor here in the pacific north-wet). Check the air conditioning out. Mine had been converted to the new system(not freon) by the PO. That saved me a lotta $$$ right there. The front suspension on these cars takes a beating with the heavy engine and weight of the car. So check balljoints, front sub-frame bushings and the like. Most repairs can be done by yourself if you can use a wrench. Parts are pretty reasonable (cheaper than for my wifes '96 Chrysler!!) And people here are happy to share advice
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past MB rides: '68 220D '68 220D(another one) '67 230 '84 SD Current rides: '06 Lexus RX330 '93 Ford F-250 '96 Corvette '99 Polaris 700 RMK sled 2011 Polaris Assault '86 Yamaha TT350(good 'ol thumper) |
#5
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I have a 82 300SD. I love the car and am in the process of rebuilding the engine. I got it with 220K on it and it has 300K now. Check it starting COLD. Engine should idle without rocking side to side. Remove filler cap and put a piece of cardboard over the opening. Rev it up a little bit. Cardboard should be pulled down, not fly off.(you are checking pressure in crankcase) check plastic vacuum lines - pull one from the control unit on top of the valve cover - it should not have oil in it. Check the holes in the rocker panels where the jack goes, especially the front for rust
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