Larry, I just see this as a good excuse to get that 5 speed put into that wagon....and see if you can rebuild it a second time...
Are you going to take it apart and inspect it.... or are you too disgusted ?

leathermang,

I think you have me confused with someone else. I don't have a five speed (at least in a 123 car) and I don't have a wagon. I do have two Euro 240D's, my old half million mile car and a parts car. I should've pushed the 300D off a cliff a long time ago and started putting the time and money into my old half million mile car.

As far as salvage, the 300D has a fresh head with new valve guides etc. I'm sure it isn't hurt, it's just the short block that is scrap iron I figure. I may part it out and take the money from that to get the 240D back on the road. There are many good parts and a good transmission that should have some worth. I will keep the alloy wheels and new tires. It has good suspension and brake components, starter, alternator, ps pump, a/c compressor, etc.

Yes, I am disgusted and will probably not bother with a post-mortem(sp?)

Have a great day,

I did think your daughter had a wagon...


But on the 5 speed I was just looking at this as an opportunity to change out that automatic... which I know you hate to have in your stable...

Is the engine which just gave up a turbo ?

Larry,

Was that the head that my friend here in FL sold you a few years ago? (it was a non-turbo head, if I remember right) Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Glad that nothing burned down....it could've been worse.

-Larry

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Regarding a runaway Diesel, how long would a 616 or 617 run if you pinched or cut the line from the big filter to the IP?

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Larry,

Sorry about the loss. I'm assuming you know why the engine ran away. I'm betting that whoever installed the fuel shut off diaphragm om the back of the pump didn't take care to hook it into the main rack to pull it back. Someone probably carelessly jusst stuck it on and tightened the bolts which pushes the main rack in the pump to full rich with no way for it to return. You can check it by unbolting the diaphragm and pulling it straight out. If you don't have to unhook it that was the problem, but I'm guessing as long as you've wrenched on these things, you probably know that.

Peter

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Auto Zentral Ltd.

autozen,

Yes, I know that now. I also now know to check the shutoff with an auxilliary vacuum source. I hope that everyone learns this to prevent the same problem from happening to others. This is what I get for buying a used part and just bolting it on without research. Had I posted a question here asking for things to check, I'm quite sure I would've learned what I needed to know in time to prevent this. Thanks.

Larry Delor,

The way it turned out when I bought the head from your friend was, there were no prechambers in that head. It had a fresh valve job with guides and was ready to go, otherwise. I ended up finding someone to do the original head for a reasonable price. I then sold the head from Florida to someone with a cracked head who was, as I recall, in Nebraska.

All turned out well, he got a good head and his engine came out well, and mine came out well with the work of the machine shop that I rediscovered.

Thanks for concern about the head. I was very pleased with that transaction and very thankful for your putting me onto it.

Thanks,

Sixto,

I have no idea how long it would run, but since you asked the question, how about you jamming the rack,firing it up, and cutting the hose. Let us know the answer with a post.

Peter

__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.

autozen and sixto,

psfred said earlier in the thread that there is enough fuel in the pump to destroy the engine before it dies. I think he is actually including the fuel in the main filter in this statement.

Thanks to all,

I wonder if stabbing the fuel filter with a screwdriver would have stopped it? I guess we will never know.

__________________
Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

I was thinking of using bolt cutters on the injection lines but that might cause fuel to squirt all over the place at high rpm. What's the line pressure at redline? It's close to nothing at idle.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

I was under the impression that the fuel pressure is relatively constant and that the volume of fuel varied with RPM. Since there is a regulated opening, the effective pressure will vary to a degree.

Have a great day,

Oops, must of overlooked my email for this thread.... It was a 1991 Grand Prix, they ran that motor from 91 to 95. 3.4L Code X, I think the northstar was based off of it. Other years had the 3.4L, but the code X was a slightly different motor. GM also put a turbo on the motor during this time but a turbo 91 was pretty rare, mine was N/A.

Sorry to hear about your motor Larry , so what is the way to get it to shut off when it does this? Before reading the replies, I first thought of ripping the line out of the pre-filter. I know I wouldn't have bolt cutters handy to cut the injector lines, covering the exhaust would probably lead to burns, covering the intake didn't work. Just cut/rip off the clear line going to the IP and hope that it works in time?!

Jeff M.

__________________
Jeff M.
Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k

From what I learned, pulling the fuel filter line won't work because there's enough fuel in the pump to run the engine to destruction.

The only plausible solution is to have in wrench in hand when starting and loosen all the injector lines between the IP and injectors and make a severe mess in the process. I would also suggest safety glasses on your eyes with the wrench in hand.

Had I used a vacuum source to verify that the shutoff moves the linkage to the stop position, I would not have experienced this.

Have a great day,

Larry, I wonder with the engine running that hard in the garage there if you would have had any chance to reach over the fender with a wrench and loosen those lines. Maybe if that was all planned ahead, but it seems after start up with what you described here it would have been a long shot to get wrenches in place and unscrew lines.
Someone suggested having a set of bolt cutters nearby and cutting the lines. Seems that might be a good plan. Large tools like that are easier to use when your heart and head and the engine are all screaming at top volume.
I asked my local MB tech and he saw that happen once. Said he thought the engine was lost within a minute. Happened in a big shop and it still took a half dozen techs two to three minutes to get the thing shut down. Awful memory. I asked him and he said yes to the bolt cutters. He thought that would be a useful precaution.