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  #61  
Old 03-18-2003, 02:48 PM
123c
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I didn't strip anything out with the starter bolts, just took me a while to figure out how to squeaze into the such tight space. Then it took me 2 hours to figure out that if I pulled out the alternator the starter will slide right out of the engine compartment without taking the suspension apart. The next time I need to pull the starter it should take me no less than 30 minutes.
The Oil filter housing is where I had the problems. I also had trouble getting the cooler lines lose without stripping the threads, which I did. Now that I know how everything goes together a little better, I think I can do this job in less than an hour.
This is also the very first time I have done this type of work on a car EVER, so I am learning. The next time will go so much faster

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  #62  
Old 03-18-2003, 03:11 PM
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Not to beat this to death... I take it that on a 123 you can't undo the starter bolts and have it drop to the ground as with a 126. It's been a while but at most the cross member (6 bolts) has to come off. Maybe the cross member can stay in place.

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  #63  
Old 03-18-2003, 03:14 PM
123c
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Quote:
Originally posted by sixto
Not to beat this to death... I take it that on a 123 you can't undo the starter bolts and have it drop to the ground as with a 126. It's been a while but at most the cross member (6 bolts) has to come off. Maybe the cross member can stay in place.

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You are correct, and there is very little room between the firewall and the starter bolt
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  #64  
Old 03-18-2003, 04:00 PM
Old Deis
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On the 123 you can either remove the alternator or one can tie a wire to the starter and lift it up and manuever it around the intake manifold.
Having done it both ways I usually tie it up and lift it out around the manifold. Tight space, but it will come out.
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  #65  
Old 03-18-2003, 11:42 PM
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You stripped out all the oil filter allens with that cheap set wcich turned out not to be so cheap when you figure the time and anguish. Throw those suckers away. I have some Craftsman allens; they are decent.

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  #66  
Old 03-19-2003, 01:16 AM
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First, I'm glad to hear there may be a way to remove the ip without first removing the oil filter housing. Second, having owned a 123 "240" and now having four 300's, I also prefer the 4cyl. A week or so ago I saw a 240 turbo on e-bay. I almost bid on it even though it was clean across the country. I believe the only time a 240 stick shift wouldn't have enough power for me is at +5000 ft. because there isn't enough air for it. I think the turbo would fill the gap.
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  #67  
Old 01-03-2006, 02:42 PM
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Thumbs up Knowledge, training and tools make the difference.

Knowledge, training and tools make the difference.

I consider the OM617 a very easy engine to work on.

Note:
Yes, this is a very old, but interesting thread.
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  #68  
Old 01-03-2006, 05:35 PM
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"I also fixed the bracket bolt problem by cutting a large notch in the top of the bracket "

I like that. I have worked on 240s where that bracket was not there at all, the last guy didn't bother to put it back.

Both of my 240Ds have the "Euro" lub oil system...NO oil cooler..... which makes it even easier to remove the IP. I wouldnt even consider having a 617 after working on a few, I'll stick with my 240s, thanks
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  #69  
Old 01-03-2006, 06:44 PM
LarryBible
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whunter,

Yes this is a very old thread and for that reason I suppose that I should clarify that I meant that the 617 is hard to work on COMPARED TO the 616. Compared to MANY other cars, however, it is relatively easy to work on.

My original point really should have been made so as to point out the total simplicity of wrenching on the 240D rather than pointing out the difficulty of the 617. MANY of the same operations on the 240D that are COMPLETELY painless are a little challenging with that extra cylinder crammed in there.

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  #70  
Old 01-03-2006, 07:21 PM
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I think its more what chassis than what engine.....I find the W116 a joy to work on with its roomier engine bay (wider body) than the W123 that is more cramped with the same engine.
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  #71  
Old 01-03-2006, 07:32 PM
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well yeah

on the camaro weight dist. they put the engine out over the front wheels...why? is it cheaper? maybe a little. also they want the teenagers who love them to be able to spin the rear wheels at any whim i suppose. if they would put the front wheels a foot further forward i would buy a ponycar... well maybe not... but i certainly won't buy any car that is impossible to drive in the rain , let alone the snow.

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  #72  
Old 01-03-2006, 07:37 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible
Yes this is a very old thread and for that reason I suppose that I should clarify that I meant that the 617 is hard to work on COMPARED TO the 616. Compared to MANY other cars, however, it is relatively easy to work on.
I agree, the 616 has much more room around it than the 617 in the W123. Also a lot fewer vacuum lines to work around.
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  #73  
Old 01-03-2006, 07:47 PM
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all i know is

that i got three plugs changed on blondie, in a cold wind swept parking lot in under 30 min. i lost the 6mm at that time. in a warm garage WITH the injection lines removed the 617 took longer. could have been the fact the plugs were very old and not changed before.
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  #74  
Old 01-03-2006, 07:48 PM
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I think all of you guys are bored out of your skulls for answering this dead thread, but wait, I just answered it. ARRRGH
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  #75  
Old 01-03-2006, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by autozen
I think all of you guys are bored out of your skulls for answering this dead thread, but wait, I just answered it. ARRRGH
Good point, I am bored. Someone needs to start a good oil thread.

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