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  #16  
Old 03-07-2003, 09:46 AM
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Pat,

Seems the software got confused on the subject of time. My question was supposed to come after your post. I would like to know if you take the intake manifold off to get to the glow plugs, or if you have devised another way to do the job in under an hour. Thanks, Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #17  
Old 03-07-2003, 09:48 AM
narwhal
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Richhunters...

I didn't have a chance to go through my archives....I guess it wasn't you who I had the discussion about the larger fuel tank option with. I have this code on my delivery sheet, however, I never followed up to confirm that my tank is actually larger than 21.5. Any light to shed?

Most of my driving is interstate 20, which is sort of like driving in the desert (flat). I am on the interstate within 1/2 mile of my home, so that is my secret---steady 3100 RPMS for extended periods of time. When I hit 60 MPH or so, I switch over to "D". Also, you may check and make sure that your trans is not selected for Winter option or ASR, because I seem to get worse mileage when the transmission operates in these modes, which makes sense.
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  #18  
Old 03-07-2003, 10:34 AM
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Posts: 169
Interesting discussion. I have a 99 TD. I guess is quite similar to 98. It has just over 90k and is doing fine. The issues I had (mostly in warranty) were related to the steering. The engine is doing fine. My wife has a 02 Camry V6 which appears to have a lower mpg than mine. Since the warranty had expired (at 50k) I did most of the maintanence myself: oil, glow plugs, cabin filter, bulbs, air + fuel filter, differential oil change, etc. To change glow plugs is not as difficult - once you do it once and know what you need to do the second time will take only 30-45 minute at most.
I am pretty happy with the car so far. I am planning to keep it at least until I reach 250k.
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  #19  
Old 03-07-2003, 11:49 AM
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So is there any real verdict here on the long-term reliability and maintenance/repair cost of the '98-99 E300D? Since the diesel and the E320 gas car are so similar otherwise, would the risk of increased repair costs outweigh the better fuel economy, especially with the cost/need to add some fuel additive with each tank to control soot/carbon build-up?

I will be buying either an under-warranty '99 E300D or a '99-01 E320 for my wife within the next 30 days and just want to make the best choice for my dollar, especially when the majority of her driving will be around-town, stop-and-go, shuttling the kids around type of stuff. From what I'm reading here, the diesel advantage in these cars is increased highway mileage, and not particularly city economy.

Can any of the techs following this board comment on the long-term durability (150k miles +) of the 3.2L gas motor versus the turbo diesel?

It is good to know that at least the diesel seems to be owner serviceable!

Cheers,

Brad
'82 W123 300D-T 225k
'83 Porsche 911SC 118k
'50 Chevy 3800 Pickup 65k - for sale!
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2003, 01:20 PM
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I see that many people talk about "driving their diesels hard". What consists of "driving hard"? Most of my driving is city and occasionally on the weekends highway. I don't mind driving my diesel with it's revs up higher everyonce in a while. The OM606 sounds great humming at 5k I gotta admit. But at the same time I want to maximize my fuel mileage. This post is in regards to my '97 E300... I also run the Mobil Delvac 1.

Thanx in Advance
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  #21  
Old 03-07-2003, 02:00 PM
SpannMan
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I purchased my 1998 E300 last September. It had 31,000 miles when purchased and now has 48,000. That is about 17,000 miles in 6 months. I have not had any issues with the motor. I do 130 miles rounds trip 5 days a week and a lot of kid shuffling in the evenings and weekends. I have run AMSOIL for the first two oil changes and am about to try the Mobil Delvac 1 when I reach 50,000.

Like JimSmith, I also have the seat creaking which drives me nuts, but the car is out of warranty and I do not have to time or know how to fix.

I love the car and would now like to find an older SD or SDL to drive. Time and money will tell.
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  #22  
Old 03-07-2003, 02:12 PM
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Post Runnin hard

My idea of "driven hard" is a car that often gets the "boot".
Getting driven in spirited fashon. Like going down a freeway on-
ramp with the go pedal mashed and letting the trans upshift at
max rpms. giving it kickdown to pass people in either city or freeway. every time the engine sees max load, not just high rpm
it is able to clean itself out with the 350+ kg of air running
through it. driving down the hi way at 5k rpm isn't a very good
practice to do constantly, but an occasional w.o.t. drag race from
red light to red light does fine. The ultimate goal is to force tons of intake air through the engine as a cleaner. this will also expell all of the excess crankcase oil that accumulated in the runners.
on 94 to 97's it also will work the upper flap in the intake crossover pipe at 3900+ rpm. this is good to help clean the flap's chamber and blade.

I have several highway driven 606 diesels make it to over 160,000 mi with out fault. On the other hand, the new 98+
m112 v-6 has been kind of troublesome. They are all sorted out now, but I only know of a handfull over 125,000 mi. for these owners the journey has been expensive.

For a grocery getter to be driven by a lady, I would have to recommend the gas cars for better stop and go behavior and higher durability. Will a 3 valve 112/113 make it to 200,000+ in the long run? we will just have to wait and see.

The glow plugs are a snap on any 606. The intake comes off in a matter of minutes and makes it easy to survey all fuel lines and wiring as well as pump linkage. (lube!!!!)
some people like using 12mm wobbles and 3 u-joints to do the job, but I find you end up wasting more time goofing around with the tools than it take to r&r the manifold. Plus with the manifold off, you can inspect the whole intake system for carbon or oil deposits. The PCV rubber nipples at each intake port tend to plug up and cause excessive pressure in the crankcase = oil leaks.
The pcv rubber tubes and nipples are all cheap as well is the intake gasket. Try to get paper intake gaskets instead of the later metal stamped version (pretty cheazy). Cloth injector return line hoses should be checked for leaks and never re-used if removed. On turbo motors, the egr pipe is the only hang up under the manifold and is diconnected topside with a bolted clamp. no sweat.

JUST MAKE SURE that the grey plastic E-CLIPS that secure all the metal inj. lines which are always broken, do not fall into the intake ports when you lift the manifold off. they will try to do it every time and can break a valve if you don't catch it.

best wishes
-Dr. Diesel
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  #23  
Old 03-07-2003, 05:52 PM
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Not to be disrespectful, but what has fuel tank size got to do with mileage? You fill the tank up, drive so many miles,fill the tank up and divide the gallons used into the miles driven. Is there any other accurate way to figure fuel mileage?
Concerning cup holders, that what I dont want to do is pay $50 for a new. I have had the thing apart 20 times , but cant figure out whats wrong with it( the spring mech. will not stay together).

Last edited by ready-ronnie; 03-08-2003 at 11:26 PM.
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2003, 07:52 PM
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ready-ronnie, you are not alone on the cupholders. Mine wouldn't stay down, I removed it cleaned it still doesn't work. And I can't see what is the mechanism to lock it in the down position. Maybe a part is missing?
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  #25  
Old 03-09-2003, 02:06 PM
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Red face

on the cup holder, make sure you have ingaged the two slots in the back of cup holder hole when you put cup holder mech. back in the hole and be sure you push the mech. all the way down.. you should hear a click or a snapping into place sound.
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  #26  
Old 03-10-2003, 04:48 PM
narwhal
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ready ronnie range

ready ronnie, you are correct and not disrespectful--fuel tank size has to do with a cruising range comparison we were having, and i crossed up the reference. i just don't proof my posts enough i guess.
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  #27  
Old 03-11-2003, 12:49 PM
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ready ronnie , I think I did push the cupholder housing all the way down. I was referring to the spring-up cup itself. I pushed the button, but it would not catch and stay down. I Took it out to look, and I could not see what is the part that woould keep the cup from sringing back up.

Does the cup stay down on yours when the unit is removed from the car?
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  #28  
Old 03-11-2003, 07:17 PM
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MY PROBLEM IS IN THE SPRING ALSO. NO IT DOES NOT STAY DOWN
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  #29  
Old 11-06-2003, 05:51 PM
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cup holder

Reread this old post. concerning the cup holder. I finally bought a new one. I could see where the problem was when I had the new one. It was a small tab that was broken off. Impossible to repair

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